Mickey Padge

Very nice indeed

The AR looks fantastic on ALL dial versions. It is really well done and adds to what is a fantastic rep.

I have seen the blue and black versions first hand and the black dial was MUCH nicer in my opinion With that in mind, I would say go with the white dial if you are 100% not getting the black version. Cheers

I think a picture could really help here

A common problem with genuine or replica. The only way to correct it is to open the watch up and re-postition the chrono second hand to 12. Cheers

Forum search is your friend http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...=vintage+insert Cheers!

Yes I know they are genuine. What part of my post says otherwise? I said it is a shame pearl finishes are not replicated well, not that these were replicas!

Looks pretty good to me! It is a shame the pearl finish is not replicated well.

Thanks for the info I plan to treat the watch with great care, I will only wear it rarely. It is most definitely NOT my daily beater

Thanks for the input. I can't seem to find the crown at a good price. Look at this: http://cgi.ebay.com/Genuine-Rolex-Daytona-...VQQcmdZViewItem $140 with delivery! If you know a good source I would appreciate it. I could get the parts, so I am ready in the future if need be. Cheers

OK I understand what you mean now Are the parts expensive? I can't seem to find them for sale anywhere...................

Thanks for the info, could you please explain that last sentence? I don't quite follow, sorry. The actual crown on my 6263 feels very solid, the winding is firm and there is pressure feeding back when winding. It feels very well sprung and there is no slipping noticable........ . . . yet, fingers crossed If the fault you describe were to occur, would replacing the crown and tube at that point be plausible? Cheers

Thanks for posting Ubi, I am grateful for your insight and opinion The watch has the mystery movement, I have found out very little about it through searching the forums. Oliver told me not to mess with the chronos, or wind the watch fully, as it stresses the movement out. Any other tips you could give would fall on welcome ears/eyes in particular to the movement inside

I got the dial and hands direct from DW for

This is my most prized watch for sure It has been in the most capable hands of repaustria (Oliver). He installed a new dial and hands set for me. I was lucky enough to get the parts straight from DW after he replied to my email. The original dial was not in the best condition, neither were the hands. It has a genuine Rolex crystal installed too, the gen tropic makes a big difference to the watch. Anyway here are some wrist shots for you all to look over, let me know your thoughts The original dial was the first revision, so I was told. I think the Rolex Crown was positioned too high on the dial with that version. Also the chronograph second hand was black, whereas this new version is silver with a white tip. I believe this is more accurate? I would be very grateful if Ubi could give me his expert opinion ubiquitous where are you! Cheers!

I thought the overlay went on top of the existing date disc no? So that would mean nobody would have a spare disc because it is still inside the watch, with the overlay attached on top of it? I may be wrong though.........

I also have NO idea what you are talking about, and I suspect neither do you.............

A scam site. Pictures of genuine watches. Steer well clear and buy from our trusted dealers on this forum. End of story.

A very enjoyable read, brilliant review The photo of the pearl with the scratches underneath was very similar to how my Steelfish looked. I got some very, very fine wet and dry paper and taped up round the pearl area. Then proceeded to gently rough up the acrylic covering the pearl. It takes time, but after a while the acrylic becomes opaque and so it is very hard to see the scratches underneath, but the pearl itself still looks great! It may be harder to do with the Evo pearl, as it is smaller, but it should still be possible. Just make sure you use the finest grade paper and use a circular motion to create an even finish. Cheers

That is very true, you could plug it in to another PC as a slave drive. It can get a bit complicated though if it effects the boot order of the PC. Plus there are jumpers to mess about with to get the master and slave configured right. For $15 you can just plug it into another PC with ease, even a laptop. Much easier option

I wish you good luck! You should be OK, HDD are pretty robust.

Should work, but I would prefer to enclose the drive in the caddy for security and stability. Also if the HDD works OK, after you collect all your data you could leave the 40GB inside the caddy for backup purposes

No problem, glad I could help With luck the HDD structure will be intact and you should be able to get access to all the files that are on it Just don't format or delete the HDD partition if there is a problem with the drive when you plug it in. If you cannot access the drive when it is connected, that's when you need to look at partition recovery software. Cheers

Have a look at this: http://cgi.ebay.com/3-5-USB-2-0-Hard-Drive...1QQcmdZViewItem Put the HDD in that and plug the USB connection into a working PC, pretty simple.......... Unless the HDD is faulty or corrupted. Then you have more problems.

Yep as Pugwash mentions get a USB HDD caddy 2.5" if it was a laptop HDD, or 3.5" for a desktop HDD. They are pretty cheap off ebay. Depending on the original PC's problem, the data on the drive may be intact. If not acronis have some good disk managment software, with recovery tools. Cheers