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rbj69

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Everything posted by rbj69

  1. actually im fine with this but the new jobs dont have to say anything imho, there isnt an issue of waitng with them and frankly its no ones business imho , i dont mind outstanding jobs listing here but the past months ones i do mind cause there r quite a few and that is mine and the customers business , not yours or the boards business , hope this sounds fair to u , its kind of like would u like me to be in your house rambling around?
  2. also this should only be for the ones that have been waiting too long and r unhappy with this wait because how many jobs i have right now is not anyones business imho , just the ones that feel they have waited too long is really all that should concern ubi and or the board, am i correct in saying this?
  3. I totally agree , they r not held hostage and just a few did ask while i was sick and i nicely refunded and sent there property back also a bump mods if this is out of line lmk i was just answering richards question or actually agreeing with him , if so lmk and i will delete immediately
  4. man ole man i have missed this thread while i was away i think mine is cuter lol enjoy fast pics taken for fun thread and yes she gets her beauty from her daddy lmao im kidding her mom lol bttw: this is the stuff i missed while i was sick now on my wrist enjoy joe
  5. oops i forgot to put size lol i was rambling and forgot sry , the springbars r 2 mm , and there is a guy on ebay that sells some good ones but i dont use him anymore cause i have a different source , if u need a pair shoot me a email and i will try to help ,size of my drill bit is 1.19 mm , its not written on my bits i just checked , but i found a package with that number on it made by bosch so i believe its right , i ordered 100 of them last time i ordered so they last me a while , i got through some bits man lol i buy other sizes for other projects as well hope this helps joe
  6. rbj69

    Rwg C1

    i for one have not recieved a watch but i did get a partial refund, hope this helps u get to the bottom of it joe
  7. just about all of them should be countersunk actually , hope this helps
  8. that looks very nice , just a minor suggestion , go back and make the inside corners sharper and not as round and u done yourself a nice job (which is not necessary but would clean it up a little bit better is all)also it could be just the picture angle and magnification, but i think u did a very nice job overall nothing like the feeling of self satisfaction joe
  9. the 29.5 is the standard correct size, i dont know if your caseback is standard cause i have not done his watch but im sure it is , but taken one off by hand using that tool usualy is fairly simple unless something is stripped on the drill bit size, i have yet to seen one u can require from our home depot or lowes i order mine online, i use a mini drill press and a jig to hold it steady that i made, so it does a precise clean cut , then i mill around the edges to give it that vintage look sort of like a very slight counter sinking also it deburrs the freshly cut holes, the size i use is slightly smaller than the metric ones most use only because i like the springbars to be snuugger and hold the bracelet snug to the case,(also with wear they loosen up a little bit) i will also tell u i use cobalt bits made by bosche company they seem to last longer and r harder to break when they flex a bit while drilling , i used to use a dremel and it did fine but it was a slow process and sometimes could oval the hole if u dont hold it straight , i hope this helps joe
  10. thats exactly the way i would do it, make it look original not caked on and bubblely joe
  11. just answer my questions and im done, also nanug u r reading this crap and u r allowing it , how can u ? im not trying to pick a fight , i just want the truth thats all? i havent slander u in anyway other than wanting to know your reasons? cant u give them to me?
  12. Edited by TwoTone Joe, you're just not getting it... You're warning has been increased... Keep it up and I'll give you a Time Out... TT
  13. so is deleting my defense against lies, dont u think? or is this a onesided forum once again?
  14. Edited by TwoTone: Enough of carrying this crap on all over the board... TT
  15. that name sounds familiar to me for some reason, hmm canada , i will take a look in my saved stuff , be back shortly
  16. I assume i will have to do this copy and paste stuff because of someones tricky or shall i say do before they think actions , for now i will bring back stuff that people can learn from , maybe it will all be back soon for u all ok many know me by now and know i type as i speak , plain english and no big words , but im guessing now u guys know me and can understand me , well at least i hope u can lol what i will be showing u is how i fix the release mechanism if u push it out of the socket so to speak, this one was pretty bad he bent some things i had to straighten out and piece back together, ok lets start , remember my pointer is the screwdriver ok first of all u take the hands , dial and datewheel off , this is a mbw, so there is glue to tend with and u have to be really careful while taking the dial off or u could bend it pic of the , hands ,dial, and datewheel and top of the movment once removed im pointing with a screwdriver in this pic to show u the release spring for the datewheel u simply push it in to release it , also the big screw underneath my screwdriver/pointer i loosend a bit , reason for that will be coming up this is how it looks when u push the stem release mechanism too hard notice how the sparts r bulging outward now the fix, we have to remove the top plate , remove this screw remember that screw below the datewheel release spring i said earlier u need to loosen but not remove here is why , when u do this it makes it easier to pull the top plate out see the little lip on the top plate , it slides under that plate/big screw i loosened at the datewheel release spring , here is the little lip and where it slides under now u have to loosen this screw and remove this piece , i dont know the correct name for this piece but u can see what im doing in the pic . also where that screw driver is do u see the bend in it, this where the person pushed really hard and bent this piece way on the other side , u really have to push it to achieve this bend lol hey he didnt know and i commend him trying to do some work himself , sometimes trying something is how u learn another shot of the bend at the screw ok now u have to remove the little arm im showing it simply pulls upwards off the post im pointing at now u pull the stem release mechanism out to reposition in its correct place , like a puzzle backside shot of the pusher , this post im showing is what u actually r pushing on to release the stem from the movment now all u do is reverse everything i just showed u and put it back together some key points is in this pic, make sure this arm is around the little post on top of the release mechanism and make sure u push the u shaped spring over to the side of the little metal piece im showing , it is spring action and when u push the stem in and out to change date or time , it helps push the arm up and down after u get everything lined up and positioned correctly , u put your top plate back on like so making sure u slide the little lip back under that plate im showing and tighten that screw and put your top plate back in place and tighten it down this is how it looks with it all in order and as u can see the bent parts r straight and looking good , lol after pushing in and out the stem testing it now u can put your datewheel back on , u have to push in that little spring i showed u at the top to get the datewheel to lock in position now it all works properly , and u can smile and now take a breath of air lol enjoy , i know im not a english major and i never claimed to be, i tried to make it fun and simple for u to understand just wanted u to know if u try this at home u have to have patience and if u r nervous or shakey i wouldnt recommend working on watches lol cheers now for the best part after a job is completed ..... BEEEEEEERRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL
  17. Many say this has helped them with doing it themselves and many just like this kind of stuff so i felt i and my friend would give u a nice show, and yes we do offer this service , right now we cannot except new work, i had many things like this on this board that can help the do it yourselfers and where it is is being investigated, i felt being one of the members who helped get this board started that this kind of stuff is what we r all about!! ENJOY Starting out we inspect the watch visually and listen to the movement for any anomalous noises that could lead to clues toward problems yet to be seen. Next we demagnetize the watch for the first time during service. We will also demagnetize the watch again after servicing, right before regulation. Magnetised parts are problematic both for timekeeping and when working on a movement. There is nothing more bothersome than a microscopic screw that sticks to your screwdriver or tweezers. Our machine is a classic bakelite Elimag, it's a common machine you'll find in many watchmakers shops. Then we open the caseback in our opener. This type of opener is designed to be able to open and tighten casebacks without slipping and marring the caseback. Once the caseback is loose, we go back to the bench and let the mainspring down slowly and carefully. After that is done, we release and remove the stem. Then we remove the rotor. Now we can remove the clamps and take the movement out of the case. We put the movement in a movement clamp, replace the stem and and place the hands at 12:00, readying them for removal. Next we protect the dial and carefully remove the hands with a specially designed tool. Once the hands are off they are wrapped in special lint-free watch tissue to protect them from scratches. We do the same with the dial. Now the movement is ready to be inspected and disassembled. We remove the balance cap jewels with a special tool made from pegwood for Kif-style springs, normal tweezers for Incablocs. Once we've got them off we place the cap jewels into a small vial of a toxic chemical called "One dip", or Trichloroethane. The jewels are two-part assemblies that are held together by the capillary action or surface tension of the fine grade of oil used on them. The chemical we put them in dissolves the oil and cleans and "splits" the jewels so we can inspect them and oil them freshly. Here they are being oiled again after cleaning. The dot of oil in the middle of them is incredibly small. It must be precisely placed and sized to act and last properly over the years on this critical part of the movement. The oiled cap jewels are set aside and we move to disassemble the rest of the movement. Here it is pulled apart and ready for the cleaner. Before we clean everything else, first we clean the whole balance assembly in One Dip. It's too delicate for the parts cleaners, and is only further disassembled if there is a serious problem with the hairspring, balance or pivot. Placing parts in one of the specialized baskets for cleaning. This is one of many different types of baskets we use. Next we move over to the cleaning machines. The machines use special watch-specific flammable cleaning fluids, and care must be exercised around them. Here we see the technician using the mechanical machine, with the powerful industrial ultrasonic going beside it. Both machines are made by L&R, they have been in the watch parts cleaner business for years. They also make the cleaning fluids we use. Both are effective methods of cleaning, using the same three steps. One cleaner step, using the yellowish fluid seen in the picture, and two rinse steps; the mechanical also having a spin-dry cycle. The ultrasonic is a little slower to use, but sometimes the extra power is required. Usually when busy both machines are running at the same time. Everything out of the cleaner and ready to go back together. Once everything is clean and blown or spun dry, we reassemble and lubricate the mainspring barrel. It gets its own large basket for cleaning. 3 different grades of lubricant are used on this one part. It's critical that it work smoothly as this is the power delivery system for the whole watch. That long spring must be tightly wound into the barrel which is smaller than the diameter of a dime. Then we start reassembling and lubricating the watch. We use 7 different grades of lubricants on a typical ETA automatic. Here the wheel train bridge assembly is back together and the technician is removing any fingerprints or oil smudges with a special cleaning putty on pegwood. This task is performed throughout the reassembly process along with the dust blower to keep the parts perfectly clean. Once reassembled and oiled, we're ready to put the dial and hands back on with our handsetting tool. Again, care is exercised to insure nothing is damaged and the hands are all correctly aligned. After we get them on, we give them a quick wipe to clean them, again checking that their alignment has not been disturbed by the cleaning. The watch is given a once over again, and is ready to go back into the case. The caseback is placed on loosely to facilitate the adjustments we will make during regulation. All functions are checked for proper operation before we proceed further. We give the movement a wind, then if it's an automatic it goes on the automatic winder for 48 hours to help distribute the oils and make sure everything is working well and there are no problems. Once it's passed that test, it goes to the timing machine. This machine works both on its own and interfaces with a computer. Here the watch is being tested in the dial up position. Here we see one of the readouts as we adjust both the timing machine and the watch for accurate readings. The watch being moved to another position for testing. Readings will be taken and recorded on a printout for the owner in 5 positions once the watch has been regulated to the technician's satisfaction. After all that, the gaskets are lubricated sparingly with silicone grease, and the caseback is tightened properly. The rest of the paperwork is filled out, anything worth noting about the watch is recorded, the 1 year guarantee is stapled to the results and notes, and the watch is given a quick wipedown with a 3m microfiber cloth. Finally the watch is ready to return to its owner. And there you have the anatomy of a general watch service!
  18. i agree it has a bit too many unfixable flaws for me to, thanks for your input guys , it is a nice looking watch however joe
  19. i ordered my today , and i have a couple black datewheels to try on it, i will post on it when it arrives, i think it is a cool eye catcher myself, , the way it looks it will be along time before that rubber would come off imho, from the side view it is pretty darn thick, wowowowo
  20. JUST ANSWERING YOUR LIES FOR U: now please ask whoever is [censored] for 6 months to come here and let me know about it, pretty please, do u think if i didnt make good on peoples stuff , u wouldnt see it by now, exactly it would be all over the board all the time, sure i got 3 months behind about 2 months ago , only because i was sick , but i let everyone know and most understood and wanted to wait and then some didnt and i returned there watch , i refunded people that prepaid in advance for my work and we all went on, and at least those people knew that they were safe with me, being i was sick i still provided the people with there watches and or money, slowly but surely, so no one got screwed at all, and if there is someone [censored] off about the time i was sick , im sry is all i can say but i didnt screw anyone over and made good on them all and still am making good on all also the burnt cheese remark, u did a hell of job to make someones dial look like that, i really commend u on your efforts, now tell me is it harder to make dials look bad than doing a nice job? just curious u r right there is no competition and never has been and no nerve was striked, i just liked seeing u stick your own foot in your own ass , the thing is it seems it got stuck after u saw the real pics of the original watch that i actually did joe
  21. ps. think about something people, do u think i would have been in business for over two years now and a member of all boards for this long if i did crap work like the infamous The Zigmeister tried to pull over on u guys, especially with a picky group like we r ? the answer IS HELL NO, people wake up and smell the coffee , i mean read the guy that owned the watches post he made on june 19 , that says it all and those r his pics and words , and good ones of the whole job from me , and many said it looks awesome , dont be blinded by The Zigmeisters friendship , im still amazed zig would even stoop to this level, but he never ceases to amaze me
  22. higgy i see u have been busy getting this clan of yours blind for u , all i can say is either u altered my work by putting stuff on it or someone else did, everyone can see clearly that isnt the watch i sent the guy and i see someone even copy and pasted pics that the guy took his self and there r no dings or dents like u showed in your manufactured pics, i knew u were a little mold of a man but i didnt thing u would stoop this low to drum up business, the thing is it is your same old little trolls helping u out and the guys that have been around a while still see u for who u r , (THE JEALOUS FRENCHMAN) a leopard never changes his spots, i waited all day and saw u posting around and reading my answer to u and knew u had to try to come up a way to weasle yourself out of this one , lmao the truth is u altered something , that is not the watch i did , and u r still jealous of me as a child would be , u can even hear it in your tone with your replay , now i can say what u r , U R A LIAR , A JEALOUS PERSON, AND A LONELY LITTLE TROLL MAN all i can say is u guys r truly blind and cant tell the difference in a cover up if it hit u square in the ass, now i will shut up, just letting u know that is not how my work looked , that is a fabrication and im a hundred and ten percent certain someone either put something on top of my tritium and or that is a whole other dial and hands, all i can say is im glad i save pics of my work and even the owner posted and took his own pics of my work , i dont know what the hell happened after it left my hands 3 months ago but the blind will stay blind as usual , and the truth seekers know better, good lighting effect The Zigmeister and varnish job , again people look at his lighting effect job and the jelly varnish job he did to the so called my dial, and then go read waht the owner of the watch said 3 months ago when he got it , BIG OLE POST PRAISING ITS CRAFTSMANSHIP , again dont be blind and snookered by this idiot, im sure he does fine work but his jealousy of my work has earned him the title of the MAD FRENCHMAN!!! i guess i should thank u for sticking your foot in your ass but truly i dont care i just hope u learned something from your lies GOOD DAY GOOD PEOPLE and [censored] off hiccy hoompa (u lieing piece of warm poop) thank god i saved my pics!!!!!!!!!!!! joe
  23. never tried it before but it looks like it might, all u have to do is take the back off your watch and unscrew one screw to find out, just make sure the winding teeth ligne up and turn together before u screw it down , its really simple joe
  24. i think 42mm is with the crown for the reps , and 40.5 is just the case for the genuine ,
  25. very cool, thanks
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