rolli

thanks for the warm words

rolli

Pam 009 PreA Pvd:

specs:

case: old school eddie lee

crown-guard: 111j noobF, reworked for this PreA version by my watchmaker, sead lever,

crown: davidsen double o-ring oem crown with tube, installed by thomas,

dial + hands: FGD, hands relumed,

sapphire: davidsen without AR,

movement: unitas 21.600 bph noobF,

caseback: davidsen,

bead blasting and pvd coating: by my pvd company,

strap: wojtecki tan,

enjoy

rolli

Pam 243 Sub 1000 Comparison

with following pictures i show the detail-work and assessment of the 243 h-factory and noob factory.

also for comparison was a genuine 243L from a friend in my hand.

my final result is clear, the 243 h-factory is the better version and number one.

see the pictures below,

243 h-factory with the blue croc strap,

243 noob factory with the black rubber,

case:

h-factory: correct shape

noob factory: correct shape

bezel:

h-factory: correct shape and largeness, knurling has the right shape,

120 clicks and works very precise and smooth,

noob factory: not correct shape and largeness with wrong angle, knurling has a too much rounded shape,

with this bezel the watch has a wrong look, bezel 60 clicks and works rough,

bezel 5 minute steel marker:

h-factory: correct shape and largeness and on top the correct polishing, correct tallness on the bezel,

noob factory: not correct shape and largeness, they sit too far out of the bezel, and have a too much rounded polishing,

crown-guard and lever:

h-factory: correct shape with correct lever, the lever sits correct flush, the lever-finger-nose ( to open ) has a slightly different shape,

noob factory: correct shape, but the lever sits too deep in the crown-guard body, the lever-finger-nose ( to open ) has a slightly different shape,

caseback and engraving:

h-factory: correct shape with correct deep precise engraving,

noob factory: engraving is flat and not precise enough,

strap quick release bars:

h-factory: works fine

noob factory: works fine

dials and hands:

h-factory: looks correct

noob factory: looks correct

luminosity:

h-factory: super-lume, perfect strong

noob factory: non super-lume, weak

sapphire:

h-factory: clarity absolute top,

noob factory: clarity bad,

for me the 243 h-factory is with a large distance the number one.

i hope i could help for the right decision

enjoy

rolli

H-Factory:

Noob-Factory:

that's a gen one

rolli

Nice and what is the movement?

it fell from the truck

rolli

you love this dirt ????????

hahahahahah...

not bad.......

rolli

I love the dirt style

perfect.

just clean a little bit..............

rolli

same here

rolli

swiss 2893-2 gmt will work,

maybe a gmt hand tube mod.

rolli

i think this wasn't so complicated.

dial lume material filling mixed with UV820 varnish by the dial maker.

a technical employee ( rc tritec ) told me, in this time the dial maker used this uv820 varnish.

because all dials got a thin layer on top and then came the lettering print. because the brass dials are black coated by a galvanic bath,

and with a galvanic coating you cannot make the print on top.

all swiss hands maker get their lume powder material from rc-tritec.

and they mixed them with another varnish, not uv820.

that's the only explanation why the hands have still the tritium C3 color.

no other explanation is possible in technically view.

rolli

pre vendome dial indexe are filled with tritium.

tritium is a colorless fine grit and would be mixed with C3 color pigment powder.

manufacturer was rc-tritec switzerland till 2007.

this mixed tritium power was mixed with UV820 a non light-resistant varnish.

and filled in the deep recessed dial indices by the dial-maker and with the rc-tritec handmachine.

over time the varnish UV820 got the yellowing effect.

the hands produced by a swiss hand-maker got the same tritium powder but probably mixed with a light resistant varnish.

and that's why the hands have no yellowing effect over time and show still the C3 color

rolli

no genuine swiss 7754 gmt movement installable,

got already the confirmation.

rolli

no one knows exactly why the pvd service is so expensive.

when i started with the pvd service ( years ago ) which possibility will i find for

a 1:1 color like the pre vendome pvd color or pre-a or a-serie.

and how good are all the pictures which shows the real pvd color.

and not distorted though the different cameras and artificial light or sunlight.

and where are the pvd companies which has the service for watches.

i found two local companies.

and who is the best and who is the most flexible to work.

i found one local.

it is the daughter company from a well known mother-house in swizzerland.

it's the biggest one on this field.

with the chief manager i discussed my concern.

he gave me the pvd department chief. with him i discussed the different possibilties for my preferences.

before i started with this service, i had to make many tests with the different bead-blasting grit.

different fine granulate bead, different glass and ceramic bead.

and respectively the succeeding pvd coating on the single parts to see the result for the color.

note: the bead-blasting gives the surface a special texture to get the special diffused incidence of light,

which influenced the look of the pvd color on the case.

the result for my choice was , i have to take the 2 step bead blasting procedure on the case ( all single parts ).

1.) special fine granulate bead - blasting intensity of 100 percent

2.) fine glass / ceramic bead with a blasting intensity of 50 percent,

fortunately my pvd company has an own blsting department with the right blasting machines for small parts and watch parts.

note: in my briefing with other local companies which have the service for small parts, they have no own blasting department.

they get always the final part for coating.

only my pvd company has a blasting department with different machines for different small parts.

this is a big advantage for my preferred process.

then i got a offer from the pvd department chief to buy an own pvd chamber rack with my own specific retaining clamps

for my special single parts which was built in this company in the rack department.

so… everything was done,

all these pre workings and necessary informations required about 7 - 8 month.

this department chief has always a final pvd coated case as sample on his desk and controls each blasting process.

i control the case before it goes to my watchmaker for case-disassembly in single parts

and i control it again before it goes to the pvd company and the end-control when the parts comes back

and then again to my watchmaker for the assembly.

i hope you all understand the complex procedure.

rolli

i think he is looking for a cheap possibilty,

but then he will find nothing.

rolli

thanks,

a more than elaborate review.

rolli

no.

this kind of dials are made wrong.

the chinese dial factories for rep dials cannot make it correct, because it would be to expensive.

rolli

So is it proper for you Rolli??

all genuine handwind dials are 1,0 mm thick and the indices recess are 0,5 mm deep made by coinage punching tool.

indices filled by hand two times with rc-tritec hand machine.

1.) filling,

2.) filling for the convex shape

only auto dials have the white basic print and the convex lume print on top made by a screen print.

rolli

rolli has Pvd

rolli

i think we will have the enjoyment to wear them from the cartel.

rolli

Pam 390 release

rolli

sead a-f serie crown-guard type

with the member name - sead1999 - is he reachable via repgeek.

rolli

44mm pams have always a lug width of 24 mm for 24mm straps.

47 mm pams have 26 mm lug width for 26 mm pams,

45 mm + 47 mm radiomir pams have lug-wires for 27 mm or 26 mm straps.

keep that in your mind.

rolli

Would like to know the lug width on an 029, did a search and it doesnt seem to pop up anywhere and the various web sites leave out that info. I assume its 24mm but am not sure.

but it must be the old zapon varnish UV 820 with the second component hardener.

only this varnish with the time makes it yellowed.

rolli

Thanks for a great insight, Rolli

Zaponlack is actually a very familiar medium to me since I used it many times for sealing solder-on components on PCBs to protect them from moisture back in the day. Actually, when I ran out and was too lazy to run to the radio store supply I made my own zaponlack by dissolving broken ping pong balls (celluloid) in acetone

rc tritec was and is the main supplier for panerai, the original varnish for the tritium dials was UV 820 Zapon Varnisch,

a 2 component varnish ( varnish + hardener ) which was non resistent against the light.

the yellowing effect comes from this 2 component varnish.

this varnish is a very slightly sheen varnish. the brass dial got a fine-bead-blasting and after the galvano black surface in a galvano-bath.

and then the varnish on top, and the tritium material was mixed with this UV 820 varnish.

rolli

Rolli,

Do you know the secret ingredients of this varnish or will it sink into oblivion like the varnish of stradivarius violins?

all genuine dials have a slightly sheen effect on the surface.

this is the special making of the dials and the special 2 components of varnish.

rolli