gioarmani

Thanks for the dial close-ups. i wonder how old that rep dial is because mine is pretty matte. Maybe I should click on the link...

Interesting--I was unaware of other models with the seconds @ 6 & functioning chronometers that had a different case profile. Speaking purely observationally, the main complaint I would have about the aesthetics of the other model you have pictured would be that the 5 minute markers seem a bit large (& possibly the wrong color lume), and the crown doesn't sit against the case. I wonder if it's possible to swap the whole dial & movement to the thinner case, or just the dial perhaps?...Hmmm... Where was yours purchased?

I got this idea from another board, and unless memory fails, I haven't seen a pictorial comparison of the two, so I hope this one helps those who might still be on the fence. *Note to Admin--feel free to move this to the watch comparison section, if you wish. Thanks. For what it's worth, this piece was purchased form Josh about one year ago, and after my initial regulation, still keeps to within + 2 or 3 seconds per day. After sealing the case, pusher & tube rings with silicon grease, this piece tested to 3 ATMs, not 6, as I would have hoped (similar to my SMP chrono and other Rolex sports models), but still sufficient for shallow-water swimming. We all know the story of this model's modified A7750's reliability factor, and I had been already been burned by one crapping out, so chalk it up to a learning experience. Is this movement more prone to malfunction than certain others, based on it's extra bridge & added gears? Of course--so lesson learned is to simply be more careful with it. Don't use it as a daily beater, and don't keep it running on a watch winder 24/7. I keep mine in the watchbox's drawer, and only pull it out when I want to wear it. Other than the rehaut & case being a millimeter or so too thick, they're damn near spot-on (Spotable as a fake to the experts? Easier off the wrist that on. But then again, even the most expensive & professionally modded reps are, to a well trained eye...). Here's mine, from it's original shoot here, straight from the box: Notice how the newer rep's rotor makes the A7750 look a lot closer to the gen's 4130? New rep rotor & movement: Gen rotor & movement: Old rep rotor & movement (still pictured on most dealers sites, sadly--even though the old one's not the one currently used in the watch): And now for the gen to rep comparison. The only mod done to my watch was a slight trimming of the CGs. There will be some slight color variations on the steel & on the dial due to differences in lighting, but side by side the quality is exact in crispness & color. (gen pic on top of the pairings, rep on the bottom):

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...rce+for+inserts

You guys are welcome. Merry Christmas!

The first.

I think you mean Josh's page, not PT.

Quite nice. I wonder if it's possible to very lightly sand just the indented part of the crystal--the only part that touches the gasket, in order to give the rehaut the a more gen-esque appearance. The main difference is the fact that the division line seen more noticeably on the gen is due to the refraction coming through the crystal: Gen Rep The rep's rehaut/crystal division is obviously visible, but it needs a little something to make it just a bit more obvious.

That's my motto...

Mine is threaded--no appearance of glue under loupe. Buy a gen SD kit from the bay--the diver's extension fits perfectly with the clasp & the links: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ME:B:EF:US:1123

L-a-a-ambert, the sheepish lion...

Like one of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ME:B:EF:US:1123 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ME:B:EF:US:1123 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ME:B:EF:US:1123 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ME:B:EF:US:1123

Ruby or Josh. rep vs gen

I love it. Awesome.

No sweat.

Nice.

Interesting, but not quite. Quote from Ron Pinelli, president of Autodat-- "Volvo makes some very good cars and its brand has a positive image. But, Ford must let Volvo be Volvo -- it's time to stop interfering with the Swedish engineers and let them build high-quality cars on their own." (i.e. GM turning Saab to [censored]) Ford's only a major shareholder in Volvo--they aren't designing the cars--part of the merger/charter stipulated that Ford could hold ownership, but was not to interfere in design (seeing as how they completely cheapened the look & reputation of Jaguar). Ironically, Ford has admitted wanting to hang on to Volvo so that they can learn to build safer, quality cars. Even though Ford denies it, BMW has repeatedly been in talks with Ford to buy Volvo, since Ford is severely struggling with Land Rover & Jaguar and has already been forced to sell Aston Martin. They've also publicly acknowledged as of spring '08, Jag & LR will be sold off as well. Volvo has only struggled under Ford's ownership (for obvious reasons), and Volvo has been screaming to get out. Truth be told, Lexus, Vovlo, BMW, etc--most of your higher end car lines (not all) are going to cost more to purchase and/or maintain, but that's simply because you get what you pay for--most are better built. Considering the true long-term cost of vehicle maintenance & repairs, factored both in and out of warranty, there's not much sense owning a car that's out of warranty (if you're concerned about the cost of repairs). It costs almost as much money in maintenance, parts & reapair over the years to keep a used car on the road & functioning like new, as it does to pay for a new one.

Buy one from Josh, Andrew, or PT. Don't waste your money with aftermarkets. The aftermarkets are shitty in person & have poor print & rollie pearls--not Omega pearls.to reality Sadly, the rep inserts (for omega, anyway) are leaps above aftermarket quality.

More like El Douche'.

Nice.

All cars brands have lemons. I've had 3 over the last 10 years, and have never had reliability problems.

Stick with either the V70 or the Cross Country--can't go wrong. I'm on my third one now; 4 years & 95,000 miles & no problems yet (knock on wood)! Also ask some questions on the forums (mechanics and owners/tinkers): http://www.volvoforums.com/ http://www.volvo-forums.com/

Not sure on the 1570, but looking at some pictures it would appear that maybe the rotor & plate that holds it on might have to be removed before you have access to the stem release (red arrow). Might be better for you to PM The Zigmeister.

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=12096&hl= or http://www.pmwf.com/Watches/WatchSchool/WS...%20a%20movt.htm

Glad everyone likes it!