freddy333

Well, if you mean for a fantasy (non-DRSD) project, then I stand to be corrected. But my point was that they are all poor quality parts - the type of parts that most here would encourage the owner to trash & replace asap if 1 is building a DRSD.

Alligoat - Interesting, but definitely a franken (all aftermarket except for the case (excluding bezel/insert, which are also aftermarket) & movement).

I think McQueen's Sub was actually a 5512, which has CGs.

All the parts are wrong, so what are they good for?

I was flabbergasted, too. But not in a good way. This is Canal Street 'quality' & just about guaranteed to get you called out. But if that is the goal, I would say it is worth every penny of its $30 price tag

The printing on these rep dials so good that I would not want to try to authenticate the dial without having a known gen right next to it (in the palm of your hand) for direct comparison. That said, if the dial feet do NOT fit into your ETA movement, then it is probably a gen dial (or an aftermarket dial made to fit a non-ETA movement). But if the dial feet DO fit your ETA, then it is definitely an aftermarket dial.

Anguz - Most of my wristies were taken with my 7 year old 4MP Canon A80 point-&-shoot (in Macro mode) & I cannot imagine your camera being much lower end than that. If your 2nd-hand camera is a major brand (Canon, Kodak, Sony, Nikon, etc) & 2MP or higher, it almost definitely has a Macro setting. You should be able to download a user manual for your camera model from the vendor's website. Or just look for the little (Macro) flower icon on the switches & wheels on the camera body. If it is not on the body, it may be switched on/off via 1 of the menu settings. But if the camera is less than 10 years old, it almost definitely has a Macro feature. Often, you may need to shoot 50 shots to get THE 1 shot you want (this is typical of most photographers).

Info on original Rolex Hev patent here

The gen xtal has AR on the underside & only below the cyclops

Did someone say 'JlC' Wearing my beater today

This may help

Ditto By-Tor's recommendation. A few steps that help - Use your camera's (Macro) setting (refer to your manual for details on its operation) Position the watch for minimal reflections in the dial/crystal Best location & time to shoot is outside at sunrise/sunset - when the light is diffuse but not dark

If the MBW case is made to the same dimensions as the gen case it should. But you will need to contact the seller to find out. It should, but I have never seen 1 of those MBWs in person, so the only way to know for sure is to roll the dice & find out.

Looking good.

Ending the work week with a rose

Maxfly - Have you contacted each seller (including brief descriptions with good, clear pics illustrating the problems)?

It all depends on how much you know about vintage Rolex, how neurotic you are & how much money, time & effort you are willing spend to placate your neurosis. Euro's watch gets the general 6538 theme right, but most of the details wrong. As is, this watch should fool anyone who knows little or nothing about vintage Subs, but is likely to be spotted as a fake by anyone who does. The basic features of a 6538 are all there, but not in their correct form (incorrect colors, sizes, fonts, shapes, locations, etc). The dial colors & fonts are close, but no horseshoe The crystal is the wrong shape, the pearl should not have a metal surround, the insert fonts are wrong. However, the middle case, if the dimensions are correct (38mm x 15mm), might work but I would swap out the original 'fast beat' ETA for a 'slow beat' ETA 2846 The caseback is incorrect & the bracelet looks fake (& is famous for falling to bits upon arrival) Were it me, I would replace the dial (Yuki), crystal (gen) bezel/insert (CWP), 8mm Brevet crown/tube (Yuki), bracelet (Yuki) & case (Yuki) & gen 1030 movement. This would set you back at least $2,500 plus the cost of labor to service the movement & assemble the parts. However, for an off-the-shelf rep, this is probably as good as it gets.

Thanks, Alligoat. I did.

Yes, a bit of an itchy finger there.

The blue actually makes it look more natural.