freddy333

No firm answer to that question, because of the variability in rep crystals & case dimensions/quality. Sometimes, after the ring is removed, the crystal will fall off if you turn the case upside-down, but other times it has to be pried off. Unfortunately, like so many things with rep watches, it varies rep to rep. But you should be able to press it out, from inside the case, with your thumbs. Just make sure to point the crystal at something soft as they can take off when released.

I cannot answer your question (I am not that familiar with all the details on modern Sub models), but if jewelryoutlet555 is who I think he is, I would, by default, go with the other choice. (If jewelryoutlet555 is in Texas, search RWG for 'Mr. Slimeball'.)

I think RWG members are better fotogs than the guys on TZ. Wearing the old GMT while doing paperwork at home today But I will probably end up wearing the white Newman out to dinner tonight

Yes, but, even with its very minor warts, considering how truly accurate that bracelet is (hell, it even stretches like the gen ) it is 1 of the best buys in aftermarket Rolex parts that I have seen in my 2.5 decades of collecting. And it looks like it came with LHOOQ's watch. What a deal.

I am not well versed on Breitling, but, based on the in-between position of the date & slightly imprecise corners of the case, it cannot imagine it is gen.

The 160x series of DJs were powered by the 19.8k bph 1575, but these watches had 'pie pan' (concave) dials. Beginning around 1977, the new 160xx series were fitted with 28.8k bph 3035s, which beat at the same rate as the 2836. 1982 16014 on left, 1970 1601 (with hard-to-see pie pan 'Mystery' dial) on right

Great work, especially for your 1st time (I assume since this is your 1st post, it is also your 1st franken project). The springbars can be jammed into the end links of Yuki's bracelet, but that is not the proper way to do it. You also risk damaging the end links &/or 1st links in the bracelet since the metal that forms the 'hoop' in the end links is the same metal that connects the end link to the 1st link. But if it works......... Your fast-running movement may just be magnetized (it may also have a crimped hairspring, but that will likely require the services of a watchmaker to diagnose & sort out). Alot of jewelry stores that have watchmakers on the premises will demagnetize a watch while you wait for just a pittance (since it does not require any disassembly of the watch & takes less than 1 minute to perform the work). You might also gently shake the watch to see if you can hear anything loose banging around inside the case. Frequently, 1 of the movement locking screws will come loose & lodge itself in the hairspring, which is a very bad thing (it does cause the watch to run (fast) as you have described). But if you can remove the caseback & locate the balance wheel (the round wheel with the concentric spring below it), you should be able to see the screw if that is the problem. Either way, make sure there are at least 2 screws with small rectangular metal tabs below them that are securing the movement edges to the inside of the case. If not, you may have a ticking

Some movements have small arms or latches that pivot out from the side of the pillar plate to lock the dial legs in place. These are in lieu of screws. But without pics or a movement ID, the best anyone can do is run through the possibilities, narrowing down the options until you get the job done. But you have to be patient & take things 1 step at a time.

Lani, of course, I know what you mean. But, judging from the posts & questions I frequently see that reference new models, I think alot of new (& some not-so-new) members DO believe what they read. Especially, when what they are reading comes from 1 of our 'respected' Collectors. I think many noobs assume (to some degree, understandably) that if they read something on 1 of our collectors' sites, that it must have been vetted & is therefore true. Or, at least, have a basis in truth.

Nice gaggle you got there &, like most of us, if you take alot of pics, 1 or 2 come out pretty well.

Nicely done. By the way, the 2836 is the appropriate engine for a late 70s (through 80s) DJ. These were 3035-powered, so the 2846 would have been too slow.

Somewhat academic now, but, for future reference, if you are stuck or unable to locate something (like a dial screw), asking additional questions or, even better, posting good, clear pics of the watch/movement part or parts in question before forcing anything might save you from hosing your watch next time.

Huh? Is this a statement or question?

Ditto.

Ending the week wearing my beater

Depending on the quality of the rep, the dial is held onto the plate either by 2-3 screws that enter from the side or by glue/adhesive. The dial should have 2 legs that stick out from the back. These are relatively delicate & are used to center the watch in the movement. Do not apply pressure or press the dial sideways. If you break the legs, you will complicate matters considerably. In watchmaking, never force anything. If it does not come apart (or go together) with moderate finger pressure, then you are doing something wrong. Stop & re-evaluate.

If enough people report it, maybe ebay will remove it.

DuDro - Is this mechanical or quartz? Have you shown this 1 before?

Alot depends on the particular movement, but I think the confusion stemmed from something Ziggy wrote that recommended pulling the stem out to the time-setting position before removing it (Ziggy feel free to chime in here if I am mistaken). I have often found that that leads to the problem here. With most movements, I pull the stem out to the 1st click (winding position) & then remove it. With ETAs, as long as you use the red screwdriver (120), you should not have a problem with the keyless works getting mis-aligned.

This is an A7750, but the keyless works are very similar to many rep watch movements. The plate identified by the green text is the part that moves when you press the stem release. If pushed too hard/far, it (or the clutch lever) can become dislodged, which then makes it difficult to get the stem to 'lock' into the movement or to switch between winding & time-setting modes

Hewlio - Your game (& movement) is far from over. You need a new stem (which must be ordered for the particular movement in your watch - $10-$20), possibly a new case tube & a watchmaker to install them both. From your description, I think Alli is right - you probably dislodged the clutch lever or an associated part (This is the keyless works from another movement, but it shows the parts in question) You either pressed the release pin too far/hard or had the movement in the time-setting position when you removed the stem. In either case, the hands & dial will need to be removed & the keyless works reset. Not a big job for a watchmaker, but if you lack the tools & skills, you are likely to turn a minor issue into a disaster.

I am sure of this - the exceptions would have been done for aesthetic reasons (Rolex Design probably just felt some dials looked better with white datewheels instead of the usual champagne), not cost cutting.

Nanuq - Are you guys working on the Go to first unread post function (), which has not been working for the past 2-3 weeks?

Oops, forgot the fabulous fun forum.

Have you PM'd 1 of the Mods for their input? If so, then I think your only other recourse is to confront him, civilly, in person.