freddy333

I believe only the CG-less Subs had coin edge bezels.

I only watermark my pics. That (gen) piece belongs to 1 of the TZ elders. During the 50s, Rolex had a habit of painting the seconds hand on alot of their sports models white. I have lots of pics of early GMTs & Subs with gilt/gold minute/hour hands & a white seconds hand I had planned to use a white hand on my 6536/1 But, in the end, I did not think it would go through my enhanced patination process (oven) & come out still white at the other end. Mores the pity since you could have fitted that beauty with a realistic rivet bracelet, now that they are readily available (albeit only with narrow springbars).

Franken with poor aftermarket dial. Rule of thumb - Honest sellers provide good, clear, bright pics that clearly illustrate small details. Dishonest sellers post small, dark, out-of-focus or shadowy pics to obscure details. I do not think I have ever seen a single exception to the rule.

My understanding is that Rolex chose to AR only the cyclops area to see how well it would stand over time before they jump on the AR bandwagon. They do not want to find out (in 10 or 20 years' time) that the coatings fade, discolor or oxidize. Even though it may sometimes seem otherwise, Rolex is a very conservative company & they do not like to adapt new technologies (that they do not own) until they are well-proven over time.

MT - That has not been my experience. ofrei no longer stocks (or has access to) Triplock crowns or most of the popular crystals. What they do have are generic crowns (no coronet on the cap) & crystals (with a few gen odds & ends for models that are of little interest to most collectors).

If anyone has removed the crystal on their GMTIIC - rep or gen - please let me know the steps involved (if you posted pics or a thread, a link would be helpful).

I went through my 5513 pic archives & they are all variations on the same theme. But here are a few more pics that may help (I think they all had gilt hands)

Lani - The 1st runs of 5513s had gloss/gilt dials until the early-60s or so. However, I have only seen these with the depth line above the Submariner line I will have to check my hard drive archives to see if I can any find exceptions to be sure.

The Great GMTIIC AR Mystery: SOLVED Here is a gen Rolex GMTIIC crystal in its original, factory-sealed packaging (I cannot disclose many details about the acquisition, except to say that it required calling in a favor) Once I have figured out how to (safely) remove the bezel/insert on my CHS, I will install the gen crystal. In the meantime, this pic clearly shows the AR coating applied to the underside of the crystal, below the cyclops (if the upper-side of the cyclops is AR'd, I do not see it) Case closed. p.s. It is also worth noting that neither of the Rolex-certified watchmakers I spoke with were even aware of the AR coating until I pointed it out to them. In 1 case, the watchmaker was so unaware (& surprised) that he had to contact someone at Rolex Switzerland to verify the existence of AR on a Rolex lens. My point is that the AR on these watches is only relevant to WIS types & it is highly unlikely that anyone else you may encounter in your daily life will ID your rep (assuming you look like you belong with a $7k watch) as anything but the real thing based on the appearance of its cyclops. As best as I can tell, all the AR cyclops does is make the watch suitable for very interesting pics.

All you need is a hunk of the correct steel & gen case for the exact dimensions.

........or, at least, a more accurate Daytona/Paul Newman dial, especially, the 'long-tail' 3 in the minute totalizer

Rolex USA (& their ADs) will not sell parts to anyone outside the official Rolex service network. However, if you buy alot of gens & have a good relationship with them, some UK/EU ADs have been known to on occasion.

I have too.

Ditto. Ending the work week in deep But going out with this tonight

If the springbars are gens, why would you want to reshape them? Are you trying to fit them into a non-Rolex (or non-Rolex rep) watch that does not accept 2mm Rolex springbars?

Not to nit-pik, but, in most cases, if you want to include some context (a good idea) just quote a line or 2 of the text that accompanied the OP's pics. We will all get the message without having to scroll half a page to read the few words at the end.

4 Steps 1. Upload your pic to photobucket.com or any other online image storage site 2. Copy the Direct Link code 3. Place your cursor where you want the pic to appear & click the Insert Image icon in the RWG Editor 4. Paste the code from photobucket into the Image URL box

Why are so many of you regulars re-quoting entire pic threads just to add a line or 2 of comments?

I would go vintage.

I assume the watch in question is a rep. That being the case, the screws are probably painted (not blued).

116520 today

If the watch winds, but does not hold a charge (will not run after being wound), the mainspring may have been installed backwards in the barrel (the metal container that holds the mainspring). If you cannot wind the crown, then the crown wheel may be damaged (missing teeth or installed incorrectly). I cannot give you a complete itemized listing, but many parts are interchangeable between the ETA & Asian 7750. The mainspring is 1 of those that are & the spring is not expensive (usually around $20). It is a good idea to replace the mainspring whenever you disassemble the movement (as your jeweler friend will do to diagnose your watch's current problem).

Let me preface this by saying that I agree with Lani - I would leave it as-is. But if you really do not want to see blue screws, I think you have 3 options - replace the sapphire caseback with a solid 1 remove the screws, strip the paint or replace them carefully paint the screws with the color of your choice I see no other options.

Not my style either, but I have to admit that it looks like it left a gen factory that way.