freddy333

I think you just did (answer my question). Do you have another picture of the buffalo grain strap showing the entire strap, including the buckle/clasp & do you have it in other colors on any other watches?

Euno - Which do you wear more often - jubilee or strap?

Thank you. But please restrain the judges until the watch is finished. There are a few 'rough edges' that remain to be smoothed out. That said, these A7750-based frankentonas do present rather nicely

He misspelled it. Try searching for 'ndtrading' (no spaces) or go to their site.

After the long wait & all the miscommuncations, I am glad to see things turned out alright (they usually do with Rolex).

Nanuq - You may or may not want me to repeat myself, but that is a beautiful watch. I love By-Tor's II, but there is a purity & simplicity to a 50s/60s vintage Rolex 'tool' that their modern counterparts lack.

Still alternately wearing/working on this today

As Stilty said, clip off the existing dial feet (I use wire clippers) & then gently sand down any remaining roughness (if required). Then place a pair of Bergeon 10040 copper dial feet into the movement ('T' end of copper feet facing up) & lock the feet as you would normally Here is the link Put a dab of epoxy on the face of the 'T' & then gently locate the dial into its proper position (hint - if the dial has a date window, be sure the date is centered in the window). Let dry per the epoxy's instructions & you have a better-than-new pair of dial feet in the correct locations for your movement.

DuDro, my friend, try here

Gen mid-80s Datejust 16013 quickset 'Tuxedo' dial with gold markers See my post in the Supporters Trade forum for details. But, if you mean Franken-tonas, no. Sorry.

Thanks & here's looking at you, kid

Sometimes, on a never stretch of road

You might try an Orbita aluminum case - plain, simple, well-made & draws less attraction.

If the hand always stops at the same spot on the dial, then it is probably coming into contact with the dial marker or 1 of the other hands (if there is another hand above or below the second hand when it stops). If you look at the watch from different angles, you should be able to see what it is running into. The hand may be loose or it may have been installed incorrectly, but either is a quick fix for a watchmaker. But I would ask the seller what he wants you to do.

A brilliant evening at the symphony requires nothing less than an equally brilliant Patek Philippe

A small dab of Loctite blue will keep the bracelet screw in its place. Try pulling the stem all the way out to the 2nd stop (time-setting position) & slowly turn the hands through a complete 24-hour cycle (2 times around the dial). Then press the stem into the 1st position (GMT hand-setting) & if the hand moves, also turn it through a complete 24-hour cycle. Press the stem back in & test. If it works, do not use or move the GMT hand again. What is wrong with the clasp (it helps to include a good, clear picture or 2)?

Do not wind it every day. Wind it once, 40 turns, then set it down on a table & leave it along for about 2 days. Check it periodically & if it has stopped before 36 hours, send it back or have it serviced (whichever you & the collector decide to do). If the watch is still running & keeping proper time (+/- 10 secs/day), that is within acceptable limits.

You have to love a Rolex with Dauphine hands.

Thanks JoJo. From a design perspective, I think the non-Daytona (and non-Oyster) Cosmographs are especially unique because of the additional amount of 'white space' on their dials. The sparser dial gives these chronographs an especially pure & striking appearance. It is definitely wearing well on me.

I was not aware this thread was still active, but since it is, here is another entry - a non-DAYTONA 6239 Completed so far - Installed gen T21 Converted (asymmetrical pusher/'slow beat') auto-wind A7750 to manual-wind 7760 (removed rotor, reduction & reversing wheels, which are sitting in container above watch). Movement now sounds, winds & functions similar to a V72. To do - Swap pushers out for Ofrei PD 61.701s (visually/functionally same as Rolex oem 23-P3-0) Gen 6mm Twinlock/tube (en route) Remove paint from chrono sweep seconds hand (probably) Low profile DW caseback (en route) Gen 7835/357 folded link bracelet or a nice strap Swap dial crown for more accurate crown (if anyone has a source for dial crowns or has a damaged 62xx dial with a good, accurate crown they do not need, please PM me) May swap tachymeter scale bezel for plain bezel (this will convert the watch from 6239 to 6238)

Ditto that.

Friday evening

I was referring to the cases only (I will leave the subdial spacing debate for another venue). I have installed both A7750s & V72s into these cases (the V23, being a V72 without the hour totalizer, will also fit). (1st watch fitted with a V72 - 2nd watch fitted with an A7750 - 3rd watch fitted with a V72 -- all with the same case I referenced in my previous post) (I am certainly not the best judge of these things, but I do not see anything that is 'WAY' off here - $50,000+ gen at left, $300 rep at right) I have said it before & I will say it again now - these A7750-powered vintage Daytonas with asymmetrical pushers are the BEST BUY in the rep world today.

Great sighting. I wish I had the extra cash....

Ditto Alligoat.