freddy333

My +2 CHS GMTIIC Tuesday night I just polished her & she is gleaming, so I will probably wear her again tomorrow (Wednesday).

Hard to top By-Tor's GMTII, but my chs ceramic is still keeping COSC time since I got it in June (+2 or 3, timed against my server's clock) And since this is an eye candy thread, I guess another of my Studies in Blue might be in order

Please show us your current rep collection & give us more details about who you got your reps from? I am sure everyone would be interested in hearing about your experience.

Flex - click here or here or here. New or used, take you pick. I have purchased a number of (good) used Triplocks from the seller listed twice over the past few years.

Cara - Without knowing which watch you purchased, I cannot be specific. But the bracelets for most modern watches -- the genuine model & most better reps -- have several links that are held together with small screws. So all you need to 'size' your new rep is to unscrew 2 screws to remove each link. Often, there are 4-6 removable links per bracelet, which allows for a wide range of possible sizes. After you remove the link or links to fit the bracelet to your wrist, simply reattach the remaining links with the screws. As long as you can use a small screwdriver & you are careful not to scratch any of the polished metal surfaces around the screws, the process is really quite simple. Good luck & welcome.

I purchased a set of similar 'Horotec' screwdrivers from an ebay seller in Hong Kong 2 years ago that showed a similar (but not the same) picture. The drivers looked like Horotecs in the picture & the wooden storage box had a 'Horotec' badge, but the drivers were definitely not made by Horotec. Better?

Ditto that.

There are far too many scam sites to keep track of. You will save yourself alot of trouble simply by purchasing from the collectors on RWG.

If it is a genuine Horotec set (which sells for $20 on ofrei), it looks like a great deal.

Should I wind my watch? How do I wind my watch? And another **Important Reminder**.

Have you tried to contact him via the Contact page on his site?

Manually wind it 40 turns & then as long as you wear it daily, the self-winding module should keep it running. If you do not wear the watch for a couple of days, give it another 40 turns to charge it up again. Gentle shaking is ok, but may not fully charge the mainspring.

Same company, but silix-prime is generally their higher quality reps. They are a bit slow in responding, but you should receive a response within a few days.

Yes (I have noticed it) & no (it is not corrected). The only other version of the bezel insert I have seen on GMTIICs is jiro's, which has correctly shaped 4s, but all of the engravings are narrower than they are on the gen insert. You picks your poison.

Search for 'powdered graphite' & my name.

Yes, like virtually every other rep site.

Very Important - Use the LOWEST RPM setting!!!!!!!!! High turns are likely to damage the metal. Low speed only!!!!! And use very gentle pressure...let the rouge do the work.

Love the Longines, robertk. Here is my fav from 1933 And happy birthday Nelson ('noslen' spelled backwards).

Looks good to me. I use the same stuff on my boots. I think that if you also use shoe polish on your strap, it will stay like new for many years.

As Lancelot suggested, mask off the brushed sections & use a dremel with green rouge. If you have never used a dremel or rouge before, I would suggest practicing on something else (even a food tin can would be good) before putting dremel to GMT.

No, that will not work for this particular issue. Graphite grease is great for lubricating mainsprings & some gears or levers that have been designed with proper bearings. In this case, the additional gears that were added to the 7750 engine to relocate the subdial functions are just set onto bare staffs, without any type of jeweling or bearings whatsoever (Ziggy's reviews of the A7750 here & here are MUST READS). The reason powdered graphite is so effective is that it reduces friction while not physically attaching or 'bridgeing' the metal surfaces to each other, which adds additional drag to an already overtaxed engine. But you had the right idea.

I think you are right. On 2nd thought, maybe not

Are you referring to Mr Hutchison's line of work?

Already been discussed here.

Check out the 3484. That should tide you over And, yes, Phong's prices are