freddy333

Seek & ye shall find

Nice shot Master.

On the Mystery. Why not?

In honor of Mick Jagger's birthday (July26), I pursed my lips & took the Milgauss out for a late snack (Old picture)

Hmmm......I am of 2 minds on this. On the 1 hand, the sometimes questionable business practices employed by the Josh/Andrew have been well known to many members for a long time. Some have simply stopped dealing with this vendor altogether & with good reason. Price-fixing & strong-arm tactics have no place on a site that provides collectors with a gene pool consisting of 13,000+ always-hungry buyers. On the other hand, I have found the Josh/Andrew to be 1 of the best collectors in terms of prompt responses & equally prompt shipments. The 1 time I had a defective watch, an exchange was handled quickly, efficiently & the replacement arrived in very short order. I would also credit the Josh/Andrew with providing members (at least those who have been around for awhile) with reasonable buying advice. More than once, I have been urged not to buy a particular rep from this collector because the collector felt I would not be happy with it, even though it would cause him to lose a sale. It is too bad that the Josh/Andrew's silence left the RWI staff no other choice than to do what they did. Hopefully, the Josh/Andrew will be able to address their concerns in a timely & mutually agreeable manner. I think it would be a shame to lose this collector.

Fake? Only way to know for sure is to send them money. But this site has all the hallmarks of a rip-off. Best to buy 'locally'.

Site appears to be down. No IP address associated with that domain either, so it may be permanently offline (gone). Ok, corrected address is working. Run by the Silk Road conglomerate, which does not bode well for reliable (or honest) transactions. They appear to be using gen pictures (and some gen descriptions) on their site. Caveat emptor.

Seiko? Nah, that is a Panerai base without its strap.

Good info all. So for the purpose of cyclops removal, I guess the bezel can stay in place. If there is a sufficient amount of insert real estate exposed after the crystal is removed, you may be able to press the insert out with a nylon or aluminum crystal press block or something similarly flat & round. My experience pressing inserts out by hand is that they often end up bent.

Try Josh/Andrew. If it is not listed, inquire if it can be sourced.

This is actually a very good question & 1 that will have to be addressed if people are going to be modding GMTIIC cyclops, etc. Because of the finicky nature of the GMTIIC's movement, I have been hesitant to do anything with mine beyond open/close the caseback (to verify the seal & check to be sure there was nothing loose floating around inside). But, like cskent, I would also like to know the best procedure for removing the bezel? Does the bezel come off like MBW Subs & SDs, by wedging a caseback opener (or your thumbs) under 1 edge & then lifting/prying the bezel off? Or, like Datejust cases, do they require a procedure along the lines that Chief stated (working a razor blade under the bezel & then around its circumference until the bezel begins to move)? As far as I know Lani is the only 1 who removed his bezel (to deal with his cyclops removal), but he has not described the procedure he used to get the bezel off.

This may be academic at this point, but it just occurred to me that you could probably drop all 20 (or more) of the crystals into an ultrasonic cleaner filled with a warm ammonia/water solution & the cyclops's may just pop off after being run through a few cycles. I accidentally damaged a customer's crystal when I did this last year. The crystal was 10 or so years old, so that may have effected the outcome, but it is probably worth a try. Assuming, of course, that this project gets put back on track.

Will do (next time).

Sorry to hear about that. I have not had any problem with Clark's T39s, but cracking is a common problem with plastic lenses. It usually occurs when either the crystal is fitted improperly (pressed on unevenly during the installation process) or the crystal was defective from the factory. It may also, in some cases, occur as a result of an impact to the watch. If the crystal is relatively new, you might contact Clark's about a replacement.

Just trying to go with the flow.

Excellent picture! Ya wanna see a wrist shot, tough guy? I got your wrist shot right here

Not anymore. About 60 after I posted the message above, the system seemed to get back to normal. It is running fine now. Thanks.

The SDDS really is quite a watch -- a tool watch. Had Rolex given it an all-brushed steel bracelet (no polished links), I think more buyers would take it seriously. I just cannot imagine anyone wearing that massively hulking contraption on their wrist with any type of suit other than a wet 1, at least not with a straight face (or without a snorkel).

So they must be hitting more ADs now. Well done.

That rhodium dial is a beauty, but the Romans always make wrist watch dials look too busy to me. My favorite DJ/DD dials have always been the black onyx 'Mystery' (no index markers) & silver 'Linen' dials I have also always liked the Tapestry dials. But after locating 1 for another project, I am not so sure I would call it a favorite anymore. Still pondering.

A set of gen hands, by themselves, set me back about $250 last year So you did very well.

(Working on it.)

RWG is running even slower today (Thursday). Posting is especially slow, taking nearly 1 minute for THIS posting screen to fully display (and there are no pictures inserted into this thread). The problem is not at my end (other sites loading normally).

Unless the watch has been stored in a safe, after 30+ years it is unlikely that any paint will remain on the caseback. But I have repainted metal bezels with engraved numbers using a procedure similar to the process you use to grout your bathroom tile. This procedure will also work on a caseback or just about any metal with indented painted areas. Clean the caseback with denatured alcohol to remove all dirt & oil Spray a good coat of high temperature gloss automotive engine paint to the back Using a lint-free cloth or VIVA paper towel dampened (not soaking) with paint thinner, gently & slowly slide the flat cloth across the caseback to remove a small amount of paint from the surface. The trick is to remove only the paint on the surface, but not the paint within the grooves of the text. Using a 2nd dampened cloth, repeat the process of sliding the cloth across the caseback, removing a small amount of paint from the surface. Using a 3rd dampened cloth, repeat the process....... Repeat with a new dampened cloth until all of the paint has been removed from the caseback's surface. Let the caseback dry overnight. To remove the paint, buy a spray can of paint remover (available at most automotive or hardware stores) & spray the caseback with a good, thick layer of the paint remover. Let sit for 20 minutes (or follow the instructions on the can) & wash off.