freddy333

You are exactly right and that is exactly what is wrong about the MBW casebacks (they are etched using lasers, which were not available 30 years ago). But I have seen enough fairly accurate rep casebacks (including yours) that look much more like the vintage gens than mine does. And, while it does make a difference, I do not think these nicer casebacks got that way as a result of sanding & polishing alone. There must have been some other tool or process involved.

I have sanded a couple of casebacks and while it does soften the face of each letter a bit, it has no effect on the width, depth or inside texture. Sanding also does not create that sunkin appearance of the original stamped impression. Before I began on this quest, I tried to locate a jeweler who could replicate one of the gen casebacks. Either they did not have the proper equipment or they refused to work on the part because they did not want to work on a rep.

Because the lettering on your caseback does not appear to have that sunkin appearance, I think it is probably a rep (that was re-engraved by someone with the 'right' tool (whatever that is) and some experience). But I could be wrong. Maybe the new Dremel engraving tool (which I have not opened yet) can produce better results than I got with the standard Dremel driving a diamond engraving tip. But if it does, I would sure like to know how.

fx -- That is the same problem I had with the diamond Dremel engraving bits I used on the other caseback. Between the 'wobbly' nature of the rotating Dremel shaft and the width of the tip of the bits, I completely bullocks up the caseback. Fortunately, it was scrap. But the experience tells me the standard Dremel is not the correct tool for this type of re-engraving work. What are people using to do this?

Nanuq -- That makes sense. I have been using silicone gasket seal, which has a similar consistency.

Get a stainless steel Rolex Datejust with bar markers (no gold, no 'gems'). For understatement For a more sporty look Pateks, VCs, JLCs, etc. are all beautiful watches, but are more likely to seem out of place unless you wear well tailored premium suits and travel in high income circles. The Datejust is the perfect watch for someone (in a suit) who wants to project an image of success in just about any environment without having the validity of his watch (or himself) questioned. People who see it will think 'Oh, he cannot afford a gold Rolex', but they will not think it is a fake.

Has anyone used one of these to make their stock WM/MBW DRSD caseback look more like this I was in Sears collecting parts for the upcoming He valve mod and, on impulse, decided to pick up one of these Dremel engravers. I had previously bought two diamond engraving bits for my standard Dremel, but the tips of both bits were about twice as wide as the width of the lines in the lettering on my caseback. I had an extra caseback from another watch that I used to practice on, but the bits completely overwrote (by a wide margin) the original engraving, which messed it all up. This new engraver comes with a more narrow tip that looks like it might actually fit into the existing engraving. But before I open the package I wanted to see if anyone else (who successfully re-engraved their caseback) used one of these tools. If you have, can you tell me how you used it? I am wondering whether you start the engraver and then place it into one of the grooves of the letter and start moving, or do you place the tip into the groove first (with the engraver off) and then switch it on and begin moving?

Beautiful watch and great wristshot, Stephane. Glad to see it made the journey safely. Wear it well.

JoJo -- I wish you had posted a few days ago. I found a 93150, but I still need a pair of gen 580/585 end links (with the soldered inner hoops that fit the 2mm dia springbars) in case you have these and are willing to part with them.

Mojo -- Unfortunately, I do not have my watch with me, but assuming the crystal o-rings (gaskets) are the same as the case gaskets, Ofrei.com has them 3 for $5.25. Here is the description -- Generic Gasket to Fit Rolex 29-325-10, pkg. of 3 $5.25 ROL-29-325-10 Fits Cases: 1019, 1655, 1665, 1675, 1680, 5512, 5513, 9401, 9411, 16550, 16660, 16750, 16753, 16758, 16760, 16800, 16803, 16808, 94010, 94110 Here is the page link (about 3/4 from the top of the page)

That makes sense. Since most of the insulation is due to the press-fit of the crystal to the case, I wonder if the type of o-rings sold in hardware and plumbing supply stores might work if matched in size for the case? Once you coat it with silicone, I would think that might do the trick, at least as a backup option in case we are unable to locate a source for the OEM part. Pug (or anyone else that has the OEM o-ring), any chance you could measure the inside & outside diameter of yours so we might be able to source a generic o-ring?

Pug -- I have a WM/MBW 1665 that also came without that o-ring for the crystal. Can you tell me where you got yours and what the part number is? I will be disassembling my case again (as soon as I locate a drill press vice for my mini-drill press) to finish an He valve mod and I will be replacing the crystal at that time too.

I will second that.

Nanuq and all -- You guys are killing me.. If DW makes another appearance, please keep me in mind.

Ryan -- Ubiquitous, who is probably the most knowledgeable person here on the subject of Daytonas, is the person that posted those comments. But I would disagree with him on this one point. I think the 116520 I have is nearly indistinguishable from the gen, while the flaws on Ubi's, although not terrible, are more serious & apparent than mine. It is always best to familiarize yourself with the gen model you are interested and then compare that to the various reps that are available for that model. (There are almost always multiple versions of the same model available from different sources. Each rep will get some things right and some things wrong. The more you know about the gen, the better able you are to choose a watch with the least errors, or at least the errors that are the least objectionable to you.)

TWS -- Do you mind if I beat this dead horse a bit more and ask what the dremel bit you used was called or if it had a size on it? I did not have anything in my Dremel toolbox that looked useful for engraving, so I picked up two Diamond Point 'Cutting/Engraving' bits from Sears. One is 5/16" & the other is 5/64". But looking at the width of the lettering on the DRSD caseback (very thin), it looks like the points on both tools are alot larger than the width of the letters. For example, I think if I try to run either tip on either of the two " (quote) characters that appear on the caseback (one to the right of the word OYSTER and the other to the left of the word ROLEX), it seems like the bits are so wide that they will merge the two separate lines into one. So I am just wondering how you did this? Do you just start the dremel and then place the engraving tip into one end of each letter and slowly drag it along the length of the letter to widen the existing lines? I apologize if this seems silly, but this engraving thing is the first mod I have attempted that has me feeling a complete pratt (butthead).

Avitt -- Yes (almost) exactly. I say almost because I would prefer a black dial, but I would easily suffer with that white one. Do you know if those are still available?

Beautiful watch and nice work. I would like to find a non-Oyster (non-screw pushers) myself.

I am not sure about the symmetry of the pushers -- they look asymmetrical in one photo, but symmetrical in the others. Impossible to tell from his photos. The subdials also look a bit small and too far apart, but that may be the photos.

TheWightStuff -- If you locate that technical sheet, could you post a copy? I would love to see it. I think you are right about the rep bracelets being inaccurate. I kind of thought it should have the extension, but wanted to be sure. I want to try to engrave the lettering on the caseback of my DRSD. I think I remember you said you used an engraving tool to do yours. Do you mean an engraving bit for a dremel or did you use a separate engraving tool? I was in Sears yesterday and they have both, but I wondering what you used?

El -- This is one of the very few cases where the crystal on a rep is actually taller than the gen. If you reshape the CGs & replace the hands/crown/tube/bracelet buckle with gens, it would be very difficult to tell the difference. As it is, I am sure it would fool any 'civilian'.

Hi Nanuq -- Makes sense and thank you.

Avitt -- Just what the doctor ordered. The reference page shows any of 3 end pieces -- 285/580/585, and it also looks like both bracelets were fitted to the 1665. So my remaining question is (and repaustria probably already answered this, but I would not mind a second opinion) did the DRSD bracelet have the diver's extension?

Repaustria -- Thank you for the quick reply. Can I also ask what the difference is between the 9315 & 93150 bracelets? I have a box full of rep bracelets and they are all labeled 93150, but some have diver's extensions and some do not. I am wondering which would be correct for the DRSD? I also have a couple of end pieces labeled 501B, but I have a feeling that is wrong for this model. I have seen these with 280, 380, 580 or 585 end pieces. The Patent Pending page of doubleredseadweller shows 380s, but I have seen all of the others fitted to DRSDs on Timezone. Could all of these end pieces be correct (fitted either originally or during servicing)?

And did the bracelet on these vintage Sea-Dwellers have the diver's extension?