Nanuq

I have a nice little single malt in my future this evening. We got an inch of snow last night, tonight I think I'll build a fire on the deck and watch it melt over a scotch. Skål !!

I heard "The Scream" is coming up for sale soon. Yes, THAT painting. I figure there's oh, $30 worth of oil paint there, $40 for a canvas and frame... I'll go as high as $100. Tops.

Let me be the first to say you're a fine addition to this place. You've hit the ground running, keep up the momentum! And put away the credit cards while you have your boys night in, or who knows WHAT will be arriving in the mail 2 weeks from now.

Yeah if I wanted to pay that much for a pathetic little teeny piece of painted metal, I'd ask someone to smack me upside the head. I mean..... it's insanity to pay $130 for that little bitty eentsy weentsy piece. But for some odd reason, it's perfectly sane for me to pay $300 for a gen Superdome T-39. Let me rethink my position for a minute.........

Hey I got first dibs, buddy. That's right... I'm talkin' to you.

JoeyB, I couldn't care less if it's aftermarket. Whatcha got? Let's see the samples!

The crystal looks like an old "Helfands" T39 from a few years ago. Here's a comparison to a gen and rep T-39.

I'm on the hunt for a small-arrow GMT hand for the genuine movement, and have a perfect large-arrow hand to trade, if that possibility comes up?

Yikes! You need hands like a surgeon to use those right. It's soooooo easy to introduce short-radius curves, almost crimps, into the links with hard tools. That's why I use soft wood pressing the link into a plastic or wood surface. It distributes the pressure so there can be no sudden bends. Apply pressure from inside the bend, and press the outside of the link against the edge of your work desk. The dowel is working at the bent tip, and the desk is applying a reverse force against the link further down along its arc. By adjusting how you press inside and where you press outside, you apply the forces exactly where you need them. The same ideas can be used to bend the endlink inward to make one that's too big, fit thinner lugs.

I'd recommend a pencil from the sharpened end. In the bottom pic, slide the sharpened tip in from right to left. It will go a ways and stop as the metal bites into the cedar. Force it a little further and you'll see it begin to open up that curve. Go slow. If the pencil is too large find a wooden dowel that won't quite fit inside the clamshell of the good endlink, sharpen it and use it instead.

Describe the bend? Pics? You can reshape your endlinks to match your lug profiles better. Gently/carefully press the pointy "tips" on the topside inward while holding a pencil or screwdriver inside the curve of the endlink, and create a narrower opening at the "clamshell". I'll usually hold a pencil inside and then press the endlink against a wood surface. It's springy so your first attempts won't bend it, it will just spring back. Go slightly farther next time. Be utterly cautious. You want a long graceful arc at the top of the link, not a crimp or a sudden bend. You can use different diameter rods inside the clamshell to force the bending to happen at different points. This takes a lot of caution and a lot of practice to get it right. Here are some that I bent to match my case profile. You can get them perfect with lots and lots of patience.

It's a looker! My guesstimate is $1,800 ... the last orange Pro SUB300 went for $2,125 My Sharkie says hi too.

ALERT ALERT ALERT No kidding, the first-gen SUB300 are getting hard to find! The domed crystal and low profile make them the most comfy too.

There's a first generation Doxa Sharkhunter SUB 300 (black dial) on the 'Bay right now, in great condition. This is the one with the domed acrylic crystal. These are getting rare, someone grab it! http://www.ebay.com/itm/150804190172 He's also selling a VERY rare SeaRambler SUB 300 (silver dial). It's missing the bezel, but Lani was able to find one... maybe you can too? http://www.ebay.com/...E-/150804192007

I believe the safest place for your valuables is on your person. Although I suppose that's mostly true when you're a big hulking Alaskan behemoth like me. Nobody in his right mind looks twice. Regardless, I never travel with more than one watch, and it always stays on my wrist. So I pick something waterproof and go have fun.

Red, that's one gorgeous piece. Nicely done! Can you show a photo of the caseback? If you ever want to try the "no date" look, pop a T-19 dome on there and the date window at 3:00 sort of disappears into an hour index. It's a neat effect and you still have the date function if you need it. Here's a Yuki based 'Flake I had for awhile with the T-19 so you can see how it looks.

Use them, enjoy them, keep them maintained.

The 6536 is all gilt printing except the depth rating, which is silver. Likewise the hour/min hands are gold and the seconds hand is silver, or rarely, white.

I'm not sure how glossy this one was 58 years ago but she's looking pretty matte now.

Gold-on-gold is not always a good thing however ... it IS possible to overdo it.

+1 for gilt/gilt

That's a spectacular 806! Verrrrrrry tasty indeed. Congratulations!

A gilt 1675 is perfectly acceptable with steel hands. A gilt vintage Sub? Gotta go gilt with that vintage. If for no other reason than to please the WIS gods. My '58 is gilt and came with steel hands, but the planets aligned when it went gilt-on-gilt.

Nice!! Always a pleasure to see these, D.

That's great, Hike. Keep it coming! How did you find your electronic barometer/altimeter to work up high?