Seadweller4000

This is not a tool-watch anymore. It is designed for bling-bling collectors who can't have enough of the ROLEX brand name written all over it...

I received this watch as an item on loan from my friend Takashi for the second part of my divers’ watch test-special. He not only takes the risk of having it lost in transit, but also the possibility of damages due to my rather rough tests. I am very grateful and if you like this little writeup, please ensure to give Taka a big hand for his generosity! I owe you a beer my friend (or at least an Apfelschorle)! Let’s get started. The rather unknown brand Paul Picot, named after a young but genius watchmaker who lived in the 17th century, was founded during the “Quartz-Crisis” in 1976. Producing a variety of watches, most of them rather dress watches, the 75 year old founder Mario Boiocchi lets his Italian roots flow into every series he builds. Together with the star-designer Hugo Berger who works for Paul Picot from the start in 1976 and also created watch designs for brands like Zenith and Franck Muller, they merely targeted the Italian market before the brand took off internationally. The Plongeur line is designed in strong contrast to the dressy “Tonneau” family of the brand. And contrasts determine the look of the brand, including their advertising concept. When Picot ran a somewhat erotic campaign in 1993, no one other than Helmut Newton was hired to take the pictures. The campaign introduced a new, saucy way of watch advertising that had been rather conservative until then and it went very successful. It was launched worldwide excluding Australia where it got prohibited. (I think she is reading the manual... ) I, however, allow myself now to investigate a little more of the regarded Plongeur. The “diver” as its name translates into English, leaves no doubt about it’s purpose and was introduced in 1988 for the first time. I have seen some fancy two-tone version of it on the internet, flat bezeled with golden indices on black surface. The other “first versions” of the Plongeur I found had already the raised numerals on a thick, stainless steel bezel though. The “B-Type” followed only one year later, but fans had to wait more than 10 years long for the final “C-Type” on which the replica is based we regard here. The “touch” of yellow that appears on magnificent spots throughout the watch-construction confers a sporty elegance. Especially the “anti-friction” ring on bezel and the decoration ring crown add their part to this appearance. They are meant to prevent the negative friction of steel against steel and to ensure a smooth operation. It also lifts the bezel around one millimetre making it easier to grip. Large raised and polished numerals add an artful touch to it and are readily recognisable due to the contrast with the dark metal surface. The good grip is supported by polished square-edged uprisings that chamfer down at the side. Turning the bezel feels a bit wobbly, even though it has a very solid metal sounding click. It clicks 60 times one way around, not 120, but aligns with the minute-scale on the rehaut perfectly. The case is fully polished, with minor exceptions on the parts between the lugs which have a varying brushed and polished finish, same as the outer part of the caseback. This looks precious, but has the disadvantage of attracting scratches almost magnetically. Lugs, as well as crownguards suit the square-edged bezel design with brick like appearance. This continues throughout the full design of the watch; angular numerals on the bezel, square-brick pattern on the rubber strap and of course the design of the dial which will be regarded later – everything is designed harmonious, probably creating the most expensive Lego brick toy ever. Another highlight on this watch is the large crown, emphasised by another yellow ring, which is a pleasure to operate. Well protected between the Lego-style guards, it screws in and out smoothly and the deep longitudinal slip-proof profile ensures good grip even with thick gloves. It reminds a little of a gear, underlining the technical character of the design. Same applies for the screw locked pushers which have a good pressure-point to activate the chronograph function. The crown is triplocked by the way. The top of the crown is decorated with the brands initials (PP), which looks a little like baggy nickel-plated brass, to be honest. The caseback conventionalizes a partly polished cogwheel with a brushed area in its middle where model, brand and limitation number are carefully engraved and even the inside is a little decorated with a cloudy design. Not really beautiful, but what the heck… The limitation number is taken from the white dialled model which is limited to 500 pieces instead of the 999 for the “black” line. All replicas have the number 208/500, fyi. The already mentioned “cogwheel” around this area is engraved with information such as reference and COSC number, etc on the inner circle which is as brushed just like the inner area. It is sealed by a fitting gasket ensuring a pressure-resistance of at least 5 bar as the leakchecker proves. If it can stand the pressure of 100m will the test at the AD show us in a few days. Underneath it runs the well known Asia 28.800 high beat 7750 which has been modified to suit the tricompax layout, this is why the datewheel sits too deep under the datewindow between 4 and 5 o’ clock. Some would say this to be a dead give-away, but I don’t think it is that obvious unless you try to convince a WIS, for the datewheel is white font on black surface. Paul Picot uses a top grade quality ETA 7753 for the genuine, that is why you can see a pusher at ten. It is not a HeV, but a quick date set button, which is of course a dummy on the replica. The movement is a little decorated, but not very time-consumingly in my honest opinion. It has blued screws though and a beautiful rotor (C

This watch looks so beautiful. Elegant yet sporty. A watch suiting any occasion and it also has seen half of the globe before it got to you! Keep it forever and wear it with pride my friend. Hope to check it out in person some day. Cheers.

Make it less Graham Chronofighter and more Mark XVI... Bump.

IWC GST is the best ti watch in my opinion. The titanium is even hardened just like on the genuine.

Thank you all for your kind words. It is great to participate in this community! I am also most curious about this. As it passed 50m without any problems I think it has good chances. Will let you know, soon. The rotor bearing is too loose and not so good anymore. The rotor turns up and down and will start rubbing against the caseback, soon. You can solve this by simply exchanging the damaged parts during a service.

This test is dedicated to my friends Takashi who had lent me this watch to write an article on it and Stephane who has probably the most beautifully modified example. Officine Panerai, formerly known as Guido Panerai & Figlio, has always rather been an engineering company than a horological one which is explainable by its roots. Building equipment for military purpose only, the demand of the Italian Navy was reduced dramatically after the fall of the iron curtain. The brand, until then only producing a few but precisely crafted instruments for specialists, had to rethink their policy. They introduced a single huge Radiomir model limited to 1000 pieces, a civilian version, to the Italian public in 1993. It did not really take off the way the OP had hoped, but it had the huge fortune that Sylvester Stallone accidentally discovered it during his stay in Florence for his “Daylight” motion picture. Stallone has a problem with his sight and of course was stunned by the great legibility due to the giant dial and a lot of luminous material. Luckily, Stallone also has the wrist to wear such a large watch – keep in mind that OP really is the trendsetter in huge sportswatches. Back then nobody was used to sizes bigger than a Rolex sportswatch, 40mm was the maximum. So, after shooting successfully his “Daylight” movie, John Rambo – erm, Sylvester Stallone – returned to the States and soon asked OP to produce a few hundred of these watches for his personal friends (for marketing reasons is my guess) with the “Daylight” writing on the dial and his engraved signature on the casback. Somehow one of these watches got on the desk of Johann Rupert. He liked the watch a lot and was impressed by its design, size and its uniqueness. And, as he is incidentally CEO and majoritarian owner of the Richemont- formerly known as V

looks good to me. I usually like bigger watches, but the Explorer 1 is a nice exception. Really classy.

Wonderful pictures lani! Thanks for sharing them. I am most curious about the movement inside. The gen uses a JLC mvmnt with Dubois Depraz module. How is the replica running? Wear it in good health.

It is the place where it all started for me, too. Enjoyed it a lot, read, learned and at some point I moved on. Farewell, TRC. I will keep it in good memory! Thanks everyone involved for the great time it has been.

Why, exactly, did you pass your fake as real while you unnecessarily called this poor man out? May I ask how old you are?

Took Scoobs post and modified it for my opinion: Rolex: 'Look, like the real thing and only 150 Euro in my last holidays in Turkey!' Breitling: 'I don't have any style but anybody will notice it from far away and there is real gold to it!' Omega: 'I love watches advertised by prominent people. This makes me almost as hip. I love marketing in general.' Tag Heuer: 'I can't afford an Omega.' IWC: 'I like being colourless and I drive an Audi. ' Panerai: 'I am a fashion victim, this watch is almost as nice as my Armani Quartz, but more expensive - see?' FM, UN, Cartier: 'My boyfriend liked it so much' Breguet, VC, Patek, Chronoswiss, Lange: 'I got it as a tiny part of my compensation after I almost ruined a large company. I love being CEO.' Graham: 'I thought it was an expensive can-opener?' U-Boat: 'I am not used to think. Sorry!'

The problem with pvd-coating on replicas is that these watches are not made of the hardest steel, really. So when a very hard coating (like PVD) is applied on a soft surface (like our replicas) there might happen something which is called egg-shell-effect: the harder coating flakes off. The brand Sinn hardens every watchcase before coating (even though it is much harder U-Boat steel on th U-line) which they call tegimenting. I really would prefer genuine ceramic any day, it has also different weight, temperature and "feel". Just my 2 cents though.

Awesome writeup and very promising pictures D! I think this is really the best out-of-the-box sub ever. I might even buy one although I am not that into subs. Really looking forward to see it in person when we have a beer the next time.

These straps were awesome, I am sad that I did not win one... Great gesture, Robi! You're the man.

I am pretty sure that is exactly the intention... No evidence that it is "our" Navigater though, but the indications are pretty strong. He is definately on the R-L-X.de board: http://www.replica-watch.info/forum/viewto...=143461#p143461 but he uses a diferent imageshack account in all is posts on RWI. Maybe he has two accounts?

For a genuine, steel is the way to go. Like said before, it will be a lot cheaper to buy the rubber later than a bracelet. It should also sell better on a bracelet.

Wow, she's talented! Did you help her? I really like the raindrops on the leafs.

Thanks a lot for your time and work to keep this updated! It is really appreciated!

Excellent write up again my friend! I have to say, this watch is even nicer in person. It has a feel of quality to it. BTW, the orientation marks on the bezel can be used to simulate a compass. You can use a watch to find the north direction if you lost your compass. Just make the hour hand point straight at the sun. Half the angle between hourhand and the 12 o

You're kidding me, right?

The genuine doesn't come with blue protective foil... Looks very good indeed. I think the font on the gen is a little brighter though.