lloyd

I have been diving with my Marathon SARS, Omega SM300s, Rolex 5513, 1680, 16800, Seiko and Casio. If it is dive rated, I dive with it. I really buy mainly dive watches though. I started with my Clinton dive watch my mom bought me for Christmas as a teenager. I still have that watch with the box and papers. No diving now though for it even though I just changed the o-rings.

Good guy to deal with, but the cases are way off. They use a 29mm dial. At least mine did.

The MBW is close but not perfect. The jewelry and watch case is supposed to be the best of the replicas. How much do you want to spend? The BEST would be a gen 5513 case that you re-engrave and drill the lugs.

I bought three cases directly from David. He always treated me right.

They are good watches, but you can tell they are not gen when you have both.

Those are great watches. I have a gen date and non-date model. I build a replica to give to my uncle who lost a gen while sailing. It is his new sailing watch. I made it a milsub version with solid lug bars welded on.

Lets see, I dive with my Seikos, Marathon SARS, Omega Seamaster 300s, Rolex 1680, Rolex 5513, Rolex 16800, and any rep or custom watch I build myself. My wife thinks I have too many watches. I also think my students and residents bet on which watch I will wear.

I want it thanks

I would get some stainless rod for the bars instead of the coat hangers. They will rust and ruin everything.

I guess things were different when they made a real tool watch instead of jewelry.

I do not have a great macro setup. This is what the homage looks like. Let me know if you would like it. I put the original bezel insert back on. It came with this one instead of the 60 tick one. I moved on to other things like gen watches and custom designs and just left it in a drawer.

The first dial did not come out looking good enough. I just did a second one. I will put it together and take pictures to see if you like it.

I will try to take pictures of everything tomorrow. As I said, if you like it you can have it cheap. I won't even charge for putting it back together the way you want.

Ok, unless they have changed the specs which can happen at any time. It will take any dial between 26.5mm and 29mm. I just put one of each in. As long as the 26mm dial opening looks good with that dial, It will work. Want me to take some pictures of the case tomorrow? If you want I can see about taking the crown and Rolex name off the dial. If it looks good to youi, I will put it on the new watch, Trevor 5517, I just took apart and sell it cheap. It will have an asian 21J and no bezel ring. I will even put on a sterile caseback if you want.

The dial opening is 26mm, so it can use a gen crystal. His dial is 26.5mm, but the dial seat is cut at 29.2mm diameter. I just took another one I had apart to measure the dial. I had measured the seat on another case of his I had when I posted the 29mm dial. The 29.2mm seat threw me off.

It uses a 29mm dial. I have a 21J one that I never used. It has the sword hands and the dial and bezel you want will work on it. It has a decent cryatal, but a gen will work. I have 2 others that I played with, and never did any thing to this one but take the bezel off to put a correct one on. If you are gentle, you can take the Rolex printing off the current dial. use testor's flat black paint to touch up where it was then spray the whole thing with matt clear paint..

I want 5

I just depends on what you want to pay. There is always building a gen from new parts like I do.

I see I am not the only one who loves power tools. I do the same thing with my mill. I also use a jig to locate the drill bit in line with the inner hole to drill the lugs. I do not have a tapered bit, so I tilt the case.

The retention ring and bezel ring fit well. The back is actually like the gen. Take a look at this one. http://www.network54.com/Forum/207673/thread/1311005826/FS-+Rolex+5513+Submariner+Matte+Dial+w-+Rolex+Service+Warranty

Beat you. Ordered two last week. I'll let everyone know how they work.

Get some 316L rod from your welding supply store and make a milsub with solid lugs. That is what I offered to buy it for. Use a 1.2mm drill bit.

Let me know if you want to sell it.

I believe the lip cuts into the crystal when the retaining ring is pressed on and creates a seal. Putting an o-ring there would prevent that.