olivia

" Perhaps we should remember that this is like a small town,.... " yep, like St. May's Mead.

I believe the stem position is a little different between the two due to slightly different thickness of the movements.

That Other Forum....called the Dark Side.

Very nice watch and pictures. Hope you enjoy it. Now....4 more pages of non topic posts coming up due to controversial comment from post originator.

Whoa... that is http://silix-prime.com/ and given a choice, TW or CN, I will take TW 10 times out of 10.

You mean at the Dark Side?

Pin this " Super lume standard.001 " so when how super is super lume, you can say 001.

Probably for the best...could have been BarbieGirl's son..

10000000 and you have yet to point to 1. Big words...no action. Ebay is big place, but yes I have searched there. Plenty of 22 mm, but not found one 22/18. Checked strap dealers on RWG.CC, RWG, RWI...no 22/18 listed. But I will keep searching and I will find one sometime, somewhere, some place.

Well, I meant exactly what I said...why do you try to read more into it? I am sure your straps are very nice. After searching several strap web sites I have yet to find a 22/18 listed. Have I searched every possible strap site in the world? No. I have not tried to commission a custom strap 22/18. If you know of a strap site that shows a 22/18 point it out. I don't think they are easy to find, but...hey, maybe I am wrong.

When we say that is no ETA, do we mean the movement was not manufactured by ETA? I assume so, but it looks like the ETA design, i.e., maybe a real clone....i.e., same movement design, but not manufactured by ETA.

You will need a 22/18 strap if you want to use the buckle that comes with the watch. If you find a 22/18 strap, let us all know!!!

With a new stem it is a trial and error method. First make sure you do not cut it too short. With the new stem just screw the crown onto the stem and insert it into the watch. Estimate how much needs to come off... remove a little less than you first estimate... repeat the process until you have the correct fit. At least that's how I do it. The Zigmeister may have an easier way. Edited to add: You can cut them with a wire cutter, but I prefer to not do it that way. I use a dremel with a cutting disk. You will need to dress the threaded end where it screws into the crown with a conical geometry...i.e., not flat, for easier and safer fit to the crown. If you are not careful you can cross-thread the crown threads.

If you are lucky you might be able to fix it by removing the stem and crown, then unscrewing the stem a couple of turns then reinserting it back into the watch to see if you can get all of the positions possible. If so, remove it again and put some glue on the threads and reinstalling the crown...them back into the watch. Try all functions after the adhesive has had time to dry completely. If this doesn't work, then a new stem is in order. Edited to add: If you do get a new stem don't expect the length to be correct out of the box. You will have to size it properly for your watch.

Hmmm.. not sure I agree with that. What is their responsibility when advertising a product even when specs are provided by suppliers? They are attaching their names to the product when they decide to sell them.

Nouns and adjectives...good one. I have not dealt with Josh but I have Andrew and believe he is very reliable and certainly has good communication skills. Glad to see his response here. Seems to me that the solution to all of this is just to simply say clearly what the components are, if you are going to list them at all. If the movement is Seagull ST-XX, just say that and show a picture and give specs. If it looks like an ETA2892, but does not have the same movement design, it would not bother me to say 2892 “Look a Like”, but “clone” may be a little misleading, although not totally inaccurate by definition of the word, which includes "imitation”. But most people probably think of clone as an exact duplicate. Now, the 1:1 description is something I have been dealing with lately on the vintage explorers 6610 and 1016. If Andrew is being given the 1:1 information by suppliers, it would be helpful if we could get a clear definition of what this means. The 1:1 is more important to me than the movement because it affects case parts replacement, which are more difficult to ferret out than movements.

No One replaced a 1016 rep crystal? Sorry for most difficult question of all time on RWG.

I asked the seller of a so-called 1:1 vintage explorer 1 rep( mod 1016) if the tropic 22( gen crystal ref) would fit. He did not know if it would fit or not. Anyone with a 1016 rep who has replaced the crystal? I have an older 1016 rep and the tropic 22 dimensons are different and will not fit that case.

Without a doubt, Jay(Silix) and TTK are honest dealers and would not knowingly deceive anyone...at least that is my belief, and reinforced by their responses to this thread.

"I also remember the first digital watch very distinctly - it was an ugly pig by Seiko marketed under their Pulsar subsidiary followed by an LCD version marketed as a Seiko." Actually, Pulsar digital started out as a Hamilton Company, then later bought by Seiko.

Yep...sure is a replica.

"Ahhhh... Yes, Dr. Odets' infamous Explorer review. There have been many theories on Odets qualification (or lack thereof) in even taking such watches apart for reviews. It's been said that he takes watches apart, and then sends them in to be reassembled by the manufacturer of said watch. Whether there is any truth to that or not, I am not completely certain.." Yes...just ask Ofrei> I don't believe anything from Odetts,

Could be that. Or. Hack - One of Excel's Database Functions to Take the Place of Many Functions.

The original 2892 ETA had the same rotor locking ring, so it could happen to a genuine as well. But, I am glad to see the Seagull copy. Klink would be proud.

I don't think I would depend on what Nanuq would send. He doesn't seem to realize that "the middle" is not "some place".