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RWG Technical

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Everything posted by RWG Technical

  1. I thought the same, but the marked tends to look too shiny and blue on metal, also you would have a hard time getting in the screw slot... RG
  2. Thanks... I wonder if you got some "gun blue" liquid and tried it on the screws if that would work until you got the PVD done. It should darken them close to the colour of the case. RG
  3. So are you saying that I am the "light of your watch..." I know it's corny, but we watchmakers dont' get many chances for humour, even bad humour... RG
  4. Well then I would say the HBB is not using a 7753, but a ETA 7750 Tricompax. Which means that they are using longer post hands for the 12 and running seconds, since the tricompax has these posts well below the dial face, a la V72. OR... They use a 7753, but since it has a quickset date switch over gear (not like the 7750) you can change the date quickly by turning the time back past 9 pm, and back to midnight, do this and each time, the date changes... RG
  5. Looks good congrats on such a nice piece. Wear it well. RG
  6. I have lumed a number of PO's and you can clearly see the difference between the SL and the rep lume as you get each marker done. The rep lume is good, but the SL is so much better...if your into lume that is... RG
  7. Actually the subdials line up perfectly...but the ETA 7753 is thinner than the Asian quazi-7753...the ETA 7750, 7753, 7754 etc are all the same thickness. If the datewheel was not a big enough problem, the stem not lining up with the case hole would also prevent the upgrade, along with case clamps, etc... RG
  8. Expert...not really, just have a lot of hands on experience with this model... Actually I do it going forward with the time, in other words, I advance the time until the date changes over, then install the hands at midnight. While installing the hands, I move them forwards backwards, whatever to make sure the hands clear each other, and the subdial hands. If you have a bent center post or cannon gear, you can get this up and down hand motion that can cause interferance issues... RG
  9. Turning back past midnight, won't hurt anything either, I do it all the time when servicing them...all that will happen is the datewheel will go to the previous date. RG
  10. Good tip, all do to with taking up the slack in the gear train. I have however seen some models which will still move off by a minute or so, even if you use this procedure, all due to the slack in the gears. RG
  11. The cannon pin problem is one where the seconds works good, but the minute hand looses time...this is not the problem your having with yours. Replacing the cannon pin will not fix this problem. RG
  12. Kruzer was only trying to offer other suggestions, many members are choosing to replace the A7750 with a Swiss one. RG
  13. I have seen this on a number of A7750's, both older ones and newer ones... It's just a function of the gears and the teeth spacing. If the watch is not oiled (which they aren't when delivered) then you can get this sloppiness. Once oiled, the added friction on the cannon and hour wheels seems to help this issue. Also you can add a dial washer over the hour wheel to add a bit of "friction" to the hour and cannon wheels to try and take up the slack. I have also seen a number of A7750's that when you press the crown in from the time setting position, the minute hand moves a minute or so...just a quirk on these models. RG
  14. You might try and be more respectful of long time members who are offering you FREE advise and suggestions based on their experience and knowledge. No one likes smart mouths. RG
  15. Actually it's not a "Problem" at all, but a characteristic of the 7750 movement and the offset cannon pin, and all the extra gears to drive the hands. It's not defective, it's just the way it is. Your expecting perfection when it's not possible. RG
  16. The datewheel on a 7753 is larger than a 7750 and in a different location, so it won't work. RG
  17. If you have the correct drill, and a 1.20mm tap, you can certainly drill and make new threads for a 1.20mm stem. I don't have the tooling, so I can't help you out. The crown is the same for the 0.90 or 1.20mm stems, just the hole is different. RG
  18. I dont' have a lathe so I am not sure if I could do the case mods... I think you need a lathe to make it work correctly... RG
  19. I think it's reliable like a Swiss...no reason it shouldn't be...but the A7750, once serviced is very reliable also. RG
  20. The movement was a Swiss ETA 7750 Tri-Compax one, meaning it came with the 30-minute counter already sitting at the 3'oclock position. A very high grade movement, not sure who does the upgrades, but it's a work of art... I had to replace the second gear (the gear that the running seconds hand attaches to) and the 12 hour gear with Asian parts. I also used the Asian rotor for astetics... If I did not replace the gears, I would not have been able to get the hands to attach to the posts, since the posts were well below the dial face. The replacement gears were from older 21K A7750's, since they are the only ones that fit the ETA. RG
  21. Just below the dial feet location, there should be two notches with gold coloured levers in the notches. You pull the levers out and away from the case, once the dial is in place, you push the levers back in place, and they hold the dial feet secure against the movement. How did you get the dial off, if you did not open the dial clamps? RG
  22. Well that has to be the understatement of the year...a "while" is being very generous... RG
  23. Depending on the movements in the watches, they are probably designed from the manufacturer of the movement to be no more than + - 15 or so seconds per day... Nothing wrong with them at all... RG
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