RWG Technical

There is only one model that I remove the stem in the time setting position, that is on the Moljina. On all other models, I only take the stem out in the winding position. It's FUBAR now, you have to take the dial and hands off, and disassemble and fix the keyless works, always press on the stem release before installing the stem, the end that goes into and locks on the set lever is flat and trying to press and insert it - without pressing the release will damage the watch. Sorry I don't have better news for you. RG

JUNK, not Swiss but old Asian 7750.... Not worth $50. How to tell? Look at the regulator and balance stud, compare it to the swiss one, easy to see the diff and dead giveaway... RG

Very cool, I guess a crown tube tool is in the mail back to me now...as I sit in the nations capital typing this out... Looks great, certainly one to get them talking, one day it will be a collectors item... Thanks for sharing. RG

When installing the stem back in the movement, you should always press on the release pin to make it easier to install the stem...from your information I am assuming that you just pressed the stem in place without releasing the pin? What type of movement is this? I have two information posts on ETA and Unitas movement removal, these should help. If you can set the time and wind the watch, then it should be working correctly. I would remove the stem with the watch in the winding position, and reinstall it while pressing on the release pin, and then see how it feels and works. RG

Welcome back. So sorry to hear about your loss. I hope to see you posting here again. We missed you and though of you often.... RG

Hi admin, So glad to see you here again, all the best from me and I am glad your doing much better. RG

Fantastic workmanship, a true artist... RG

BUMP Update, will be gone as of tomorrow until the 6 May... RG

Based on past experiences, I think that this is the same Asian 7750 (not a typo) I have seen in other watches, including the PAM 050 models... I just finished servicing a PAM 050, which is an asian 7750 with the autowinder - but the chrono parts removed. The "7760" is only a 7750 - with the autowinder removed. The movement would be a bit thinner than the 7750, only due to the Rotor not being on the movement. The same thing could be done with any 7750, simply remove the rotor and autowinder gears... It would be nice to have the caseback removed so we can get the answers to the questions. There are plenty of Daytona cases that the 7750 series fits into, I suspect that this is the situation with this one. Any way to open the caseback and take a picture? RG

Oops, missed that one, sorry... I scraped the old lume off the dial, and after I relumed it, I sprayed clear over the whole works to cover up and provide a nice even sheen to the dial...that covered up the smudge marks... RG

Removing it is probably not the problem, installing it is...you should have a crystal press to reinstall the crystal. It's impossible to get it back in place with out the preess... To remove it, have a look at the bezel with a loupe and you will see a notch, you insert a knife in the notch, carefully lift the bezel and crystal off the watch. But if you dont' have a press, you won't be able to get it back in place. RG

I am not totally clear on what your looking to make... If it's an automatic PAM, with that dial and case, your out of luck, as the only running seconds at 9 is a 7750 and the PAM hand will not fit this model, and you would not be able to hold the movement in the case, or have the stem line up etc... That case only works with the movement he shows, the 6497...putting another movement in the case is not easy or possible without spending much money... RG

Your pictures are amazing, "Schune" very nice.... Great job on everything. On the drilling, if you ever worked with metals, you know that many times you drill a pilot hole (small guide hole before the larger drill is used), since the CG holes are already there, these holes act as pilot holes and guide the drill to the correct place. The drill will follow the pilot holes and the new larger holes will be exactly in the same place as the old ones... If you clamp the case down to drill these holes, you have to align the drill exactly to the existing holes, very hard to impossible to do, if your off even a bit, you will have egg shaped holes... I always free hand drill the holes as it produces the best results (ask any machinest and they will tell you the same - at least the machinests I know tell this to me...). Great job Tribal, wonderful to see your work again... RG

It's work related... RG

If Joe can help you, out by all means go for it... You may be able to reinstall the hand as it sounds like it pulled off the post...but it may be better to let someone else fix it if you run into problems... RG

The 7750 gods are messing with me again. Of all the new Asian 7750's I have serviced, the ones in the Daytona's seem to be problematic. I have 2 in house that are DOA (Dead on Arrival). One looks like it was dropped or banged up in shipping (to the customer, not to me) it had a broken tooth on the 3rd wheel, and even with a new wheel, wont' run as the balance pivots appear to be bent. So this one is a problem due to handling or shipping..at least that is what I can tell from my inspection... The second Daytona I have in house, is bad also... I just spent 6 hours it, and I did not have a good time as there were lots of problems... 1. Pallet stones falling out (see other post on this issue). I reinstalled the stone and glued them both in place (this is common on ALL new Asian 7750's) 2. Pallet arm too much end play, not disengaging from escape wheel consistantly, not enough run to the banking pins etc, etc... What a mess, I spent hours sorting and adjusting the banking pins so that the escape wheel would release each tooth, and also getting it adjusted correctly, only to get it working great, until I turned the movement over...seems as if there is so much end play that the balance wheel impulse jewel falls out of the pallet fork and the movement stops working....so unless you want to wear the watch with the dial face towards your wrist, this one is a dead movement also... The movement stopping when turned over is a combination of the pallet arm problem, and a much too short balance wheel impulse jewel, combined they allow the Impulse jewel to come out of place on the pallet fork . I tried for a couple of hours to try and move the pallet jewel a few thousands of a mm up to take up the slack, but that did not fix anything...I can't do anything about the impulse jewel, it is what it is... So after 6 hours, I have a non-working and not repairable movement, no parts are available, so only possible solution is for the owner to ask the seller for a new movement, and I will take the parts I need to fix this one up...(the rest of the movement is great, clean, olied etc... if I can get the pallet arm and balance to work it will be fine). I never liked these daytona's with seconds at 6, and this is my last time fixing any of them, too stressful and frustrating. I of all people want to send a working dependable watch back to the owner, no matter what...when I have problems like this I take it personally (even if I know it's not my fault...I dont' make them, only service them...). Not sure why these are problematic, yet the other Asian 7750's in the other watches are fine, but I will know more by next week as I have 3 more new Asian IWC models to overhaul, based on my past experiences with these, they should be fine...here's hoping that this problem is not with all Asian 7750's... Ironically I NEVER had this type of problem with the OLD Asian 7750, I got each and every one of those working (of the dozens and dozens I serviced). Thanks for listening to the rant, now I will go poke my eye out with the tweezers (less painful than having to work on these again....ahhhhh....) Cheers, RG

I have overhauled a number of the new Asian 7750's in the past month, and have 3 more in house now waiting for service. If I see one incident of something, I don't think much of it, but when I spot the same problem on more that one movement, that tells me that there is a potential flaw common to all of them. THis is the case with the new Asian 7750, I have worked on many in the IWC watches, and some in the Daytona with running seconds at 6 (these are very problematic, see further post on this one...). The first time I noted this problem, I was cleaning the pallet stones before oiling them, and one twisted out of place (hmmm, that never happend before...) so I re-installed and glued it in place. Well so far every new 7750 I have worked on has this issue. If the stones move or fall out, the watch will stop. I fix them with a dab of glue and that takes care of it, from now on, I glue them in place, before I attempt to clean them up... Here is the part I am talking about, and the problem is the varnish or shellack that they are using is dried up and flakes off, you can see it, it's the small gold coloured piece... The small part in the foreground is the varnish that is supposed to hold the jewel in place... Views of the pallet and jewels... Size comparison...I had to realign and glue it back in place... RG

UPDATE: As of tomorrow I am off the forum for three weeks... I am going out of town from the 19 April to the 6 May 2006. I will only have limited access to email and this site as of tomorrow. I may be able to access it once in a while, but will only be responding to PM's... Thanks for the understanding. RG

Seems as if everything has been covered in both answers. Only clarification is that my fee for a full service on a chronograph is $175 not $275...most commercial shops START at $450 and up for a similar service... Beware of the "One dip" quick shops out there, if your getting a watch serviced for less than $100...it's not being done right, they remove the hands and dial, and throw the whole watch in a cleaning solution...not the right way... RG

From the blurry pics, it looks like a Miyota or Asian type of stem, normally these are all the same. The one for the Miyota 8015 fits most Asian models... I have some of these stems, not sure if they will fit, if you PM your address, I will put it in the mail for you (I get the stems with movements, so they dont' cost me anything...I'll send you one...) RG

I use the sanding block sponge method and it works great...cheap and you can control the amount of brushed you get... I only brush in one direction, not both. RG

I am not sure what the hands or the dial are lumed with. There is a noticeable difference between the hands and dial I received, and the hands sure look like Super Lume in intensity and lasting glow...what the hands or the dial have on them for lume I have no idea... I am not sure what Newlitte is?? RG

Excellent post and follow up questions and answers. Great job. Thanks for posting. RG

Finally a source of hands, dials and stuff....I am so pleased that Davidsen has been able to supply these items, doing what I do, having access to spares is vital... So as soon as I saw them advertized, I got a variety of hands, a dial and thought I would do a short pictorial of what I thought of them. Quality is EXCELLENT. Very very good finish on all the parts I have gotten. Lume on the hands is SL, but on the dial I got, it's not SL (Super Lume). Not a big issue in my book, actually not an issue at all, as I will simply relume the dial myself. Here are the dial and some of the hands I got from him: Here is the dial next to my relumed 111 Here is the dial and one of the hands, note the lume is as good as the 111 that was relumed 35 seconds later, and the dial is not glowing at all, but the hands and the 111 are still doing well... Davidsen recessed pin hand fix Mr Davidsen was kind enough to include this with my order for me to have a look and post some comments. I am not sure if there is a similar item for the black hands, but what I have done is compare this to the 111 that I just finished installing the longer cannon and hour wheels on. I would have compared it to a 1950, but I dont' have one in house at the moment. Here is the hand on the 111 Another view, It certainly gets rid of the recessed pin problem, whether you like the look of the cap or not is a personal choice, given the difficulty in gettting the longer cannon pin and hour wheels, this is a solution for those who don't want to do the cannon and hour wheel. Thanks for looking, RG

@tribal Glad to hear this from you, as kruzer said, I have a few of his here for work and this one was one of many that I was working on... Keep practicing, it takes a lot of practice to get it right... As requested, here are pics of the cased watch, light, and dark... RG