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RWG Technical

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Everything posted by RWG Technical

  1. I did a check of a number of A7750's I have in my stock, and none of the ETA parts will fit...the pivots on the ETA wheels are bigger than the jewel holes on the Asian movemements. Very strange indeed, you must have a different version of the A7750 in those watches. I also tried the Ratchet Driving Wheel (pn 1482) and it will not work. Can you confirm that you are installing the Reversing Wheel PN 1535 into these movements. Thanks RG
  2. I don't sell watches, all I did were the modifications, PVD case, lume etc...you have to find and source all the parts. RG
  3. That is the correct glue and those screwdrivers will work just fine for you. @ the other suggestions... Considering that the OP has no experience or tooling, asking him to remove the hands, dial, clean out the holes for the glue, install and support the marker as he flips the dial over to glue it from the back, then make sure the hour wheel etc is ok and not out of place before re-installing the dial and the hands, etc etc...purchace all the required tooling to do that work etc, the simple solution for the experience level is to glue the marker to the dial face without having to take the whole works apart. I have glued many markers in this fashion and never had a problem, if the OP doesn't feel qualified or doesn't think he can control the drop of glue then he should let someone else do the work for him... Simple solution to the problem that is taylored to the experience and skill level of the one asking the question. RG
  4. Sorry, I misread your original post, thought it was the lume that fell out... Same process applies as above, apply the glue to the dial not the marker. You need high quality watchmaker's screwdrivers, Jewellers screwdrivers sold at Home Depot etc are junk, invest in a quality watchmaker's set or you risk damage to the watch... Good luck. RG
  5. Very nice, congrats on a great collection. RG
  6. No, these are fine. Details to follow on email info... RG
  7. The A7750 GMT is no where near the poor quality or workmanship or crap that the ETA2824/36 modified GMT models are known to be. My experience with them has been mostly positive and reliable. The only issue I have seen is with the quickset for the GMT hand, on the Asian models they use the datechange gear for the GMT quickset, this requires the gear to swing all around towards the center of the watch to get engaged into the GMT gear and move the hand. I have seen issues that are not repairable where datechange gear won't engage into the GMT gear...or does so intermittently. Other than the GMT quickset, the basic design and reliability following servicing has been 100%. RG
  8. There is only one glue I use, GS Hypo cement. Gorilla glue expands and is a very bad idea. Anything else will damage the dial if you get any residue on it. NEVER use cyno instant glue anywhere near a watch, it will ruin it. Hypo cement will not damage the dial if some gets on it, and is the reason I use it exclusively. It does set up quickly so you have to work fast, put some of the glue down on a piece of paper, pick up a drop of glue with a tooth pick and apply it to the dial MARKER, do NOT apply the glue to the lume, immediatly place the lume in the marker and press it down. Make sure the lume is right side up when you install it. Do not try and pick up the lume with tweezers or anything but rodico, once you have the lume in place, use a clean toothpick to press it home. Hypo cement is available from any watch supply house. RG
  9. Your not unlucky at all, and I don't think for one minute that you were ripped off. Any running seconds at 6 movement is a problem, the movement is overloaded. Just because it failed to work when you received it, doesn't mean it didn't work when it was sold. I have posted detailed reviews on the running seconds at 6 models for close to 4 years now, it's not a new issue or problem. The best long term solution is to have the movement serviced and the running seconds at 6 gears removed and the subdial frozen. Anything less and your going to have continuous problems. RG
  10. Someone must have changed the specs of the A7750 somewhere along the way... I tried the reversing wheel in a number of A7750's and they would not fit, the ETA pivots were too large. I did machine down the pivots and made it work, but the amount of time needed to do the mod was too high. ETA parts are not cheap, the last time I bought a reversing wheel, my cost was almost $40... Good news, but that's only part of the problem, the transfer gear that directly connects to the mainspring gear is also a problem, it's the one that gets damaged and the teeth stripped when you handwind, as far as I know that one is not interchangeable with the ETA. Good work Francisco. RG
  11. Nothing new here, this was tried over 3 years ago, I did a review of it at the time and you can read that review in detail in the Watchmaking Resource Center. Bottom line, it doesn't work, ETA or Asian, it's too much load on the basic movement. The one from the review eventually had all the seconds at 6 gears removed so it would run... RG
  12. I was waiting as well, it's been a number of days and still no update, appreciate the change made. RG
  13. Thank you (I'll be sure to put an extra drop of oil in your movement ) RG
  14. Can we get the OP to change this topic title and the text updated so that there is no misconception or misunderstanding on who you are referring to? (not that it's not hard to figure out) Thank you.
  15. He's been banned from all the forums, that should be enough to convince anyone that you don't want to find this idiot, let alone send anything to him... RG
  16. Dr Peal said it, the power of positive thinking. It will come true... RG
  17. There is something wrong with the tilting pinion for the center seconds chrono. When the chrono is ON, the tilting pinion engages into the center seconds gear and it transfers the running seconds from the basic movement to the chrono. When you press STOP, the tilting pinion is supposed to disengage from the center seconds gear as a brake lever holds the center seconds gear in place. When you RESET the chrono the tilting pinion is supposed to remain disengaged from the center seconds gear becasue the hammer has reset the gear and is holding it in place. If the watch only runs with the chono on, the problem has to be with the tilting pinion not disengaging, since the center seconds gear is only free to rotate with the chono selected to ON. You need a watchsmith to inspect the chrono and tilting pinion to see what is going on... RG
  18. The only safe way is to remove the movement, press out the crystal, then you can access the inner edge of the insert and slip a knife between it and the bezel in the crystal opening, and pry the insert off. If you don't know how to do this and don't have the tooling, best to have someone do it for you. RG
  19. Please edit your title and post. Anyone who reads this will only assume that you are referring to me or vaccum. Since your not referring to me (and probably not vaccum), why post this on RWG? especially without saying exactly who you are talking about? These types of posts are very misleading with innuendo and no names, terms like "well known modder" etc, a lot of people dont' read past the title or first few lines of your post and they will ASSume things that are not correct. If the modder makes his home on another forum, then you should be posting your complaint on that other forum. If you want to vent here on RWG, you owe it to everyone to change your title and intro to clearly identify who you are talking about. RG
  20. Very nice set you have there...they look great... WD
  21. Now how on earth did you get a picture of me with my new belt... RG
  22. That's good, I never thought of that one. Thanks for the friday funny. RG
  23. If you look at my avatar it hasn't changed, however my screen name has changed to Watchdog. I would ask that I be refered to by this name from now on. It's a long story...thanks for your cooperation. RG
  24. Thanks Francisco, well done. I think they need to hire a new better micro mechanical engineer who actually understands how watches work and what it takes to make a good movement. The difference between a ok movement and an excellent one is so small, a few jewels and correct watch design... Thanks for taking the time to do this review, great pictures and details. RG
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