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RWG Technical

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Everything posted by RWG Technical

  1. I have asked this question when the first came out with the ETA 7750 with seconds at 6. Why not take the running seconds gears, and go directly accross, from 9 on the dial to 6, or in this watch, from 9 directly via 3 gears to 12. Why they use 5 gears when 3 would do the job, with NO friction, I'll never understand... I did see that some buyers have had problems with this model, but the same is true for many watches and movements, even the normal A7750 has failures. Since this design is very close to the seconds at 3 model, my opinion is that it's going to be a good movement overall. The failures that members have had, would have to be looked at to see exactly what the problem is, keep in mind that most of these movements are not regulated or adjusted, if the beat is out, the watch will not run well or at all. Beat is only an adjustment, it doesn't mean there is something wrong with the design. As for the graphite solution on this one, I would only put a small drop of graphite on the silver gear that goes over the center post, the rest of the gears are jewelled and should be ok. Great info, thanks again. RG
  2. Your welcome. Looks like it's going to be one nice watch when your all finished. There is quite a large amount of metal to remove from where the crown seats, I know how hard it is to cut these cases down, and cutting this large area, in between the CG's is going to be a real challenge. Using a file alone it will take hours, it takes me 2 hours to do the CG mod inner and outer, and I use a diamond cutting wheel. Just make sure you have enough metal left over to secure the crown tube in the case I wonder why this case looks like it does, I have seen many that have the crown in the correct position just below the bezel outer edge. You may be better off to try and source one of these correct cases... RG
  3. Great review. It looks like they followed the design of the Seconds at 3 model and installed jewels where they could. Other than the silver transfer gear over the cannon pinion/hour wheel (which you can't add a jewel to), it looks basically the same as the seconds at 3 model. Based on your pictures and lack of reports of failures with the seconds at 3 model, I think this new model is going to be just fine. Thanks for posting the pics. RG
  4. Honestly, it's not a DIY task. If you have no experience working on a watch, then your best to find someone else who can do it for you. RG
  5. There is no minimal stem length on any watch. The threaded part of the stem on this model is quite long so you can trim it to your hearts content. RG
  6. WOW, amazing pictures, simply amazing. And nice watch as well, don't remember seeing this one, I like it. Thanks, RG
  7. I install a flat gasket in the crowns. I realize that the picture shows an "O" ring type of gasket in the crown, but every used genuine crown I buy has a flat gasket in the actual crown. Makes sense to me as an O type is simply too thick. Flat gaskets for rolex crowns are available from the main supply houses, I have a number of gasket kits with numerous gaskets, flat, o'ring, etc and select the flat one that will fit the crown. If your trying an o'ring type I think your going to have problems screwing it down. RG
  8. I use Rapid Tap, the same stuff I used growing up at my Uncle's Machine shop, it's amazing for lug hole drilling as well... RG
  9. I think it looks great, the ones I have seen are typically darker than the dial lume, so this one should be spot on. Great work. RG
  10. Kruzer got it right. The "Dies" which I forgot to take a picture of, are about the size of your pinky finger nail, and they are designed to cut new threads on a shaft. The big issue is that as stilty mentioned, these stems are already hardened and it's quite a challenge to cut threads that small on a hardened shaft. Keep in mind that the 0.90mm one is less than 1 millimeter in diameter, were talking really small parts to work with. At $60 per Die, it's not cheap to get the tooling, I just hope the Dies last a long time or that I don't break them like I did with my rollie crown tube tap... RG
  11. I turned it very slowly and carefully by hand. I am really pleased with the quality of the threads. RG
  12. I would only suggest you consider that Rolex will come after you like there is no tomorrow if you copy their case. It was tried with the PAM cases and Mr JimmyFu...he's no more... The risk outweighs the reward in my opinion. RG
  13. I cut the following new threads on some stems to test out my new Dies. I placed each stem in my lathe, cut the existing threads off and trimmed the stem to the end diameter I was aiming for. Then I ran my Die over the shaft while the stem was still in the collet. I think the results are great. First up is a ETA 6497 1.20 mm stem that was cut down to 0.90 mm, of course you know what this means for PAM owners... Then I had to make a Cortbert 616 stem which measures out at 1.50 mm and cut it down to 1.20 mm to fit the crown. Thanks for looking. RG
  14. I think you can fix this yourself easily... Fill a small container with Vinegar, place the whole crown in the container, wait a week and if all goes as it should, the stem should dissolve and leave the crown in place. If not, and the crown disolves as well, it doesn't really matter as there is no other way to salvage this damage. RG
  15. I've probably done every possible mistake you can do in watchsmithing, but I try and avoid repeating the same errors. Biggest lessons learnt. 1. THERE are NO SHORTCUTS in watchmaking. If you think you can cut a corner with a task, GUARANTEED that this will result in 10 times more labour and some sort of damage to the watch. 2. Quality Tools. Buy a good set of Screwdrivers, Rodico, Tweezers, hand removers (Presto #6) hand setting tool Bergeron Red/Grey tip does most everything, watch paper, loupe, dust blower, and caseback opener. 3. Study is necessairy but hands on practice is MANDATORY. Practice and more practice is the only way to learn. 4. If you have any slight interest in watch servicing, pay Offshore a few dollars and buy his CD set and take the TimeZone course, parts 1 and 2. Even if you don't do your own servicing, the lessons learned will be invaluable for even simple repairs and upgrades. Working under a loupe takes a long time to master and until you can do it with both eyes open, you haven't mastered it. Biggest mistakes I have seen: 1. Not knowing when your in over your head. 2. Not learning the basics of watchsmithing, how to work under a loupe, handling parts, what to touch and not touch, cleanliness needed, how to uncase a movement, and remove a stem etc. 3. Expecting to be able to be talked through a complex job, and expecting that with no understanding or slight knowledge of even the names of the parts on a movement, that someone can walk you through a task. Take the time to learn at least the basic movement parts and their names so you are speaking the same language. 4. Trying to do watch work with a Swiss Army knife and a $5 set of jewellers screwdrivers from Wall Mart, and then getting upset when it all goes down the toilet. 5. Offering to work on other members watches without doing the required study and practice to ensure you actually know what your doing, and can send a watch back in the same or better condition than when received. RG
  16. I was just on the phone with Kruzer and he never said a thing... HAPPY B'DAY big fellow RG
  17. If your referring to the chrono center seconds hand being at 57 seconds, then that is totally normal... What is the chrono seconds hand doing when it approaches "12" on the dial? Therin lies your answer why it's stopping at this location, if the chrono is running as the watch unwinds, it will almost always stop at 57 seconds... Who knows why? RG
  18. I doubt it, the differences I have noted between the 2836 and 2893 GMT hands is huge, and not fixable by staking the hands. RG
  19. Keep in mind as well, that the 2893-2 can replace the 2836-2 in most watches. I have replaced many 2836-2 GMT's with the 2893-2, the only big issue is the GMT hand is not the same size, the rest of it is fairly straight forward and needs little modification to work. Great price for the movement alone... RG
  20. If it worked good and was lined up before you sent it out for work, then the fix is to return it to where the work was done and get them to address and correct the problems. My advise would be to send it back. RG
  21. Glad to see the watch home and back in your hands and glad you like the results. Packages leaving Canada do not pass through Canada Customs, only packages arriving in Canada go through our customs. The watch was delayed and held in German customs the country of delivery, but it's not unusual for Air Mail to take 30 days or more. RG
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