RWG Technical

Sounds like a great experience, thanks for the pics. RG

Yes I have replacement stems. It sounds to me like the clutch gear is out of position and causing your problem. Because the clutch gear also moves the hacking lever, if the clutch gear gets out of place, the hacking lever can get jammed between the clutch gear and cause the problem you have... RG

There could be a number of problems with the keyless works, the only way to figure out what is going on, is to remove the hands and dial and have a look inside. RG

Good job, nice to hear it all worked out and you resurected a doa watch. Congrats. RG

Buy an EL Primero movement, 10 tics per second, can't get any smoother... RG

Consider it yours, I'll bring it along when I make it to TO. RG

Then I say shut down RWG and let everyone shop at www.scamyouwithafakewatch.com End of story...problem solved, no one fights and the idiots get what they deserve, all of them... RG

http://www.ofrei.com/page240.html Valjoux 7750 With No Name on Rotor Rotor has no name. Hand sizes: 120/200/26/20 FB-3010NB-Plain Rotor $589.00

I agree, but this only works if the consumer is informed. As veteran members we are informed (sometimes to informed), we can share that information on the forum so that everyone is coming from the same place. Otherwise someone who is not informed could be mislead by the price alone. Now, I know some members are not very informed on computers, and I have a wonderful Commodore 64 (YES, not a typo 64 Millon Bites on this one) Computer for sale, it's got the BIG 8 1/2" memory disks so you can store a LOT of informaion, a full colour screen (green and black, green is a colour after all) and with this computer you can do amazing things... I am only asking $1000, and considering the colour screen and the large storage disk, it's a deal and a steal. Please pm me if your interested... and please, only uninformed consumers please, I don't want a bunch of techno questions...either you want it or don't want it... RG

Glad it all worked out. Just a FYI for future ref. Mainsprings dont' break, not today anyway. I have seen hundred's of watches, and have seen only 1 mainspring that was broken, and it was in a 6497 and the spot weld on the bridal tip was defective, which is why it didn't work. So technically it wasn't broken. I have a circa 1896 Elgin in the shop now, mainspring is perfect...and this is not an unbreakable mainspring that are in today's movements. Mainsprings don't break, you were scammed I believe. He probably told you that you "overwound" the watch...another scam... Next time this happens, put up a post and we can try and give some insight before you do anything else, there is a lot of troubleshooting you can do with some guidance to sort these issues out. RG

I agree. On the PAM's I always put myself in a newb's place, having just come from www.scamfakewatch.com and not knowing any better. It's in the interest of the community to state the fact that the watch is indeed not available anymore, it cost $600 new, and it had a genuine high quality ETA inside and the parts or mods cost XX $$. That is full disclosure, and if I was a new member and knew this, I could make an informed decision on wheather I want to spend $1500 for a $600 watch with some upgrades. If I don't know any of this information, I would assume the watch was $2000 or more new, and is a bargain at $1500... Not stating anything in a blatenly overpriced sales ad, is a disservice to the forum members in my view. Same for a RBJ watch with "$1200" in mods, that we all know is questionable at best. It's been proven that RBJ doesn't do half of the mods he charges for, and those that he does do are questionable and of poor quality. This needs to be put in the open, again so members can make informed decisons. "Wow a $1200 modded watch for $600, it must be a good one..." not if you know the history. Why are we so scared to speak up, or when we do speak up we are crapped on. If you state the facts in each of these cases, no personal attacks, just the facts so that everyone knows everything, then we all gain. I know I would be [censored] as hell if I unknowlingly bought a modded watch expecting $1200 in quality workmanship, only to find out I got junk, especially so if the members here didn't want to speak up so as to not offend anyone... RG

Why did Chad's post get so much attention, when we have had 2 PAM's advertized, not once but listed twice now, for $1500 or close to 3 times what the watch cost new. EDIT (one PAM has a DW upgrade, one a DW and Lume)... but the asking price is 3 times the new cost, and no one says a word (well I did, but it was concerning a $15 freebie...) Do we have two standards? Ignore certain overpriced ad's, but jump on others?? RG

I have been experimenting with a variety of techniques to get this look, and I think I am getting the hang of it now. Not that easy to do because the lume sets up quite fast when your applying it, but I am on the right track. Wear it well. RG

I'll take a genuine Miyota Japanese movement over a copy Asian one any day of the week. The only drawback and also advantage of the Miyota is that it is indirect center seconds driven, drawback for installing it in a modern watch, but a perfect movement for any vintage piece. All the older rollie's were indirect driven and also slower beat, you couldn't get a better combination if you tried. It is a better choice than a 2846, since the 2846 is direct driven and doesn't have the characteristic indirect loosness of the seconds hand. If only we had access to the factories, all the problems could be corrected and we could have amazing reps with great movements...think jewelled seconds at 6 7750's, Miyota powered vintage pieces, etc...dream on... RG

Contact member Offshore and buy his CD that includes the Factory ETA 7750 course I donated to his CD efforts. My tutorial is not a how to do the job, it's a look at this and all the parts and pieces. El Primero is the most difficult movement to assemble, 7750 is the second most difficult to assemble, everything else including V23, V72, etc are easy... at least that is the order for me. RG

At one time, there was basically only one Asian automatic movement in reps. That movement was form fit and function the same as the Miyota 8215, and you could swap it out with the Miyota movement. Since then, we have seen many changes and different asian movements come around, especially the DG series. I have not tried to replace a DG automatic with a Miyota and am not sure if it would work. The Miyota has nothing to do with a 7750, it's a simple automatic movement. I just think it's a much better starting point than the DG series, but that's only my opinion. If I had a choice, watch A with DG, or watch B with Miyota, I'll take watch B everytime...even if I had to add $25 to the total. @ Eurotimez Yes the DG2813 is about $15 and the Miyota almost $40, so it is more expensive. But, for the extra $25 you get a much better movement, well worth the $25. My point is it's better to use a Miyota at $40 in a watch, than using a used old not oiled worn out ETA for $60 or more... RG

I haven't been asked or done one, but there is no reason you can't lume the numerals, even the orange ones can be done with orange SL. Not like gen, but so what, many things are not like the gen... I think it would look great, especially the orange one. RG

Having seen the genuine parts compared to the rep ones, I would offer this: Hands I have not noted any difference or only a slight difference between gen and rep Crown and tube is a must in my view, too many faulty defective crowns, better to replace for practical reasons Dial, there is a difference, is it enough to warrent the cost?? Bezel, slight difference, but as with the dial, is it worth it. Lume on the dial and hands is quite good out of the box, Super Lume does take it up one level but most are quite good as delivered. I have always been more into the practical part of upgrades, crowns, movement quality, etc, and the lume, since I really get a kick out of the glow that SL provides. RG

Looking good, real good, I can't wait to see the rest. I have assembled a number of these franken daytona's, and it such a shame to hide that amazing El Primero, you need a clear caseback on this one RG

I would gladly take an automatic watch with a Miyota 8215 as the engine. This movement is bullet proof, low cost, well made, and should last many years. At $40 each, when it does quit, I'll replace it with a new one. I don't understand why they don't switch to the Miyota as the base automatic engine for these watches. It's much better quality than most of the clones I have seen. For a while the only Asian auto we had was interchangeable with the Miyota and made upgrading a good idea. But now we have all these DG series of movements, which I don't find are anyway near the quality of the Miyota. A new Miyota is preferable to a old worn out ETA any day, and can't be much more in price. Miyota for all automatic models, and A7750 or the Seagull model for the chrono's. RG

Just got in from the ICU, I am happy to inform you that you are the proud father of a cheery 21.6K Genuine ETA 2846 movement. All genuine parts, completely dry, not a spot of oil to be seen, but that is good because it made it easy to clean up and service. Put it on the heart monitor following the surgery, and it looks like the operation was a success. I have it put aside with the transplanted face sitting in quiet isolation and being monitored. Should be ready to be discharged late next week, gives you time to get the room finished off... The movements I am referring to are not the Sellita SW200, I have some of those in house, and have serviced a number of them as well. Have found a few quality issues with them, but it may just be teething pains because they are new at the business (manufacturing their own movements). And no, ETA parts overall will not interchange with the Sellita except for the odd one here and there. So were not further ahead than with the Chinese copies, lack of spares. The SW200 is $100 so it's not cheap either. RG

1. Check that the cannon pin is seated down completely, it could be up a little bit and causing your problem. 2. The screws you see are missing one part, the screw has a piece cut out from it, you line the missing piece up with the hole, then you insert the dial, and with your loupe you look at the screws and turn them 180 degrees, this locks the dial in place. RG

The ETA stamp is normally covered by the outer edge of the balance wheel, the DM stamp is not on all ETA's only some models, and the balance wheel has to have spokes, they all do... Based on that alone, it's hard to say what you have, pictures would be a big help... RG

I am not suggesting they are all bad, but if the last few weeks are an indication of what is to come, it's not good. This is the only time I have had so many problems with movements, that alone tells me that something is going on... Hopefully the Chinese mechanical movements will continue to be made and improved upon and maybe we can even get spare parts eventually, that would solve the problem. RG

My pleasure. RG