RWG Technical

Yes, this is the bottom chrono lever, not the stem release. You need to push the button to the left of the lever. Do so in the winding position, and you have to press the button to re-install the stem. RG

Pics forthcoming, give me a day or two...if anything, it's muddied the waters somewhat. Just when I think I have it figured out, they present new stuff that discounts what I thought I knew. Bear with me for a day or so, I'll get some detaild pics and you'll be able to plainly see the differences. RG

Honestly, I dont' think you can look at one item in isolation (a gear for example) and tell if the movement is gen or not. There is a lot to look at and compare to be able to differeciate a copy from the genuine article. RG

It's going to look great when it's all done. If I had a set of Snowflake hands, I would do my own watch up...oh wait, I did have a set of hands...and now they are yours... I am glad the hands found a good home, it's great to see the spark re- ignited and your latest project. RG

I just finished servicing one of the "new" ETA's that have been showing up lately (2824-2), and although I think they are genuine ETA movements, they certainly are below the "Top" quality movements we were used to having in our reps. There are a number of physical differences, mostly the lower quality fit and finish. The balance shock absorber is a totally different seat design, although the spring is a KIF Trior one it sits in a strange mounting I have never seen before. Normally following service, you can adjust the beat and regulate the movement in a less than a minute, this particular one was very troublesome, taking 15 minutes alone to get adjusted. Parts fitment is not on par with ETA standards, and it just looks like a low end model vs what I used to see until last year. The rate fine adjust screw is seized solid and can't be moved, so there are some quality issues. If I can find some time this weekend, I'll take some pics. RG

I am in and out, actually I haven't had much time off, home improvements always take longer than planned... RG

Chieftang's thin markers were created by accident, it wasn't planned. One of the markers was crooked, so I attempted to straighten it out, and when I did this, it shattered to pieces...so what to do? I scraped the remanants off, and snapped the remaining 3 markers off to make them all even, and made my own in turn. I guess necessity is the mother of invention, you screw up, and the results are better than you started with. Who would have known... RG

If your watchmaker measures the crystal seat area, height and diameter, your watchmaker may be able to source one from his supplier. The only other fix is to use GS Hypo cement to secure it in place. RG

Well I had time to read the whole article, as well as the reply

Amazing post, just taking a quick tea break from bathroom reno's, not enough time to digest it all. I'll read it later in detail and comment. Thanks for taking the time to put this together, it looks very interesting. RG

Members read and come to their own conclusions on many items, and many times that conclusion is twisted around and no where near what was originally said. We have all seen this happend in the past. For years I have heard "Beware of Canada customs..." from many forum members, on RWG1, here, and on other forums, yet my personal experiences with them have been 100% positive. If you believe I am being "oversensitive" that is your opinion, nothing more, simply your opion, and of no more weight than anyone else's opinion. It's not your name that's associated with the issue, it's mine. I have maintained for 4 years now that canada customs is not an issue, and I have worked very hard to maintain my honesty and reputation on RWG. My point all along has been simple, adding my name to the fact the watch was stolen, and that it was shipped to canada, wasn't necessairy and no good will come from it. You can rest assured that many who read this have already come to a very different conclusion that you have, and will quote this post from here to eternity when someone asks "is there any risk shipping to canada...". I am not sure why you think I need to do myself "favors" on the forum, actually I thought you had given up on this place and was surprised to see you comment. Visiting infrequently in the past month, has certainly caused me to realize it's not my cup of tea anymore...at least not in the way I used to participate. Try as I may, I find myself loosing interest in having to defend and explain myself all the time. Although the forum has many advantages and can be a lot of fun, as someone who offers a service, it requires more effort than I can muster. Archibald knows exactly what I am talking about, and can say it more eloquently than I ever will. This post confirms that my participation here will never be like it used to be, I simply don't have the time or energy for this back and forth arguing and defending myself anymore. Find someone else to argue with, stick a fork in me, I am done... I think I'll go back to what I started with, posting articles on RWG like this was a magazine. I really enjoyed doing that, and if you don't like the article, you can turn the page to the sports section... RG

The same results could have been achieved, by simply stating that a watch was stolen in transit and venting to the members of RWG. There was nothing to gain or any reason to associate me with that fact. The two are not connected. RG

I am disapointed to see this posted in the open. I thought we always had a gentleman's agreement with all members, some things are better discussed in private. I didn't steal the watch, so my name should not be associated with the fact the watch was stolen. I am not disapointed that the information is shared with forum members, but disapointed that my name is associated with the fact that the watch was stolen. I have heard for years that Canada customs is terrible, yet my own personal experiences are totally the opposite. I have never ever had an issue or problem with Canada customs. If Canada customs opens a package (which they do all the time) they tape it with special yellow customs tape. Canada Customs has never taken any item from my packages. Looking at the way the package was cut open and taped up with clear tape, I would guess that it was done in the EU, probably at the drop off postal outlet. The end of the package was cut open, and folded over and taped back in place. The return address and some stamps are folded over. There is little chance of someone having access to the package in private, and the tape to reseal the package, except for at the postal outlet where it was dropped off. This is the second time in the past few weeks that information or a topic concerning me, that should have been discussed in private, has been made public. Jen and I feel terrible that this has taken place, but I think it would have been much better to simply say that a shipped watch was stolen in transit, without mentioning my name. Many RWG members see this post as follows: Ziggy = Canada Customs = Stolen watches, all this does is give ammuntion to those who believe Canada customs are the worse in the world, and it makes me out to be the bad guy, both are unfair and untrue. RG

Not nice that he stole my text, but I have had others steal a lot more... Noctiluma is awful, think $16 for a pound of Noctiluma, and $40 for a gram of Super Lume. Noctiluma is like wet beach sand, terrible stuff to work with, it's crap. If Noctiluma was any good, you would see dials marked "N Swiss N", you don't, nothing more to say. Stick with Super lume, it's the best and expensive for a reason. RG

@ Edwin Just for your own information, you can't install a longer cannon pin on the 090 model. This is an Asian movement, and parts are not available, so you can't fix the recess. Good luck in your search. The "relumer" is a member here, I know this because he stole my relume text word for word... who he is? I don't know, I sent him an email once, he never replied. RG

The issue with Flav, is the same as with RBJ, and all the others. When people start to lie and exagerate the facts, where does it stop? And how much do you accept? I'll just add that I have nothing personal against Flav, or even RBJ. Take the emotion out of the discussion and my comments, and speak to the facts, and the quality of the workmanship that we have all seen from these two members. I don't want to start any board war or anything else, that is not my intention. I saw Flav's workmanship first hand over 18 months, nothing changed, he continued to make the same mistakes after 18 months as he did initially. RC Tritec Super Lume is the best there is, C3 glows the brightest of all, this is a fact, check the RC Tritec website. Flav continues to claim he mixes up combinations of lume, that end up brighter than C3, when he admits that he dilutes it by mixing other stuff in it. If I mix 20% alcohol with 15%, I don't end up with 35% in the end. Saying anything else is lying. The orange lumed dial he just posted on RG, which he claims he did with a naked eye no less, is the best lume I have seen in a long time. I do good lume work, and I promise you that I can't do it without a loupe, no one can, but Flav can, and he can also lume to an amazing skill level all of a sudden...does this not shock anyone who has seen any of his prior work? It sure shocks me... Yes members have been happy with his work, many more have been very displeased, why the lack of consistancy? Again, nothing personal, just look at the facts. People buy into this and more, and I can't understand why no one asks hard questions and takes everything at face value. This is the stuff, and RBJ was famous for it as well, that I just can't stomach. RWG is about helping members and presenting the truth and facts. This type of stuff is all BS and hype. I don't see the reasons behind it, offer a good service for a fair price with quality workmanship, and it's good for everyone. I just can't help but speak out when I see something that screams in my face "scam" and members of all forums, deserve better, or maybe they don't...I don't know anymore. Look at the whole TWP issue and the crap that came my way as a result of speaking up. And where did it all end...as it always does. Anyway, I have to go, this is the reason I have to step back, I just can't help but to speak out when I see members being taken for a ride. I wish more would speak up, Navi tried on RG, but just got drowned in the BS and praise...it's a real shame. As for my shooting myself in the foot by stepping back, that in itself should answer any questions anyone has raised about my loyalties or motives. Think about it... And please don't read my comments with any anger or emotion attached to them, if anything I am disappointed that this stuff continues to take place, with members not stepping up and asking hard questions. RG

Hey everyone, thanks for the feedback and comments. @ andreww I am in the big stink on Monday, but will be in at lunch and out after supper with meetings all afternoon, not venturing past the airport...next time we'll get together. For now I am going to do as I have been doing for the past few weeks, taking a break from it all. Summer is here anyway and I should be out riding my motorcycle with J at my side on her bike. I really have to come up with a solution to the time wasters, but a break will allow me to find the answers I need. @youpmelone You have been here a long time, someone you know must have dealt with me already, I'll wait to hear from you on email. Got to run, my new Mustang seat just arrived, there is some riding that needs to be done. I'll drop by now and then. Until then, all the best. Rob

You can answer your question by asking a question. What is the purpose of oil in a movement, and is the same oil used everywhere. The purpose of the oil is to prevent wear of the rotating parts, how does it do this? By having oil sitting between the rotating steel pivot and the sapphire jewel. The correct oil has to be applied in a measured quantity and in the correct location and it stays where it's applied by capillary action. How does capillary action work and how do you know how much oil to use? You can only oil a pivot if it's completely dry, and has no oil. The amount of oil you apply is measured depending on the pivot size, and the type of oil depends on the stress at that particular pivot point. Capillary action only works on a completely dry jewel and pivot, any contamination and it won't work. So that answers your question, the long way. You need to apply a perfectly measured amount of oil to correctly oil each pivot. This can only be done if the jewel and pivot are dry and contain no oil or contaminants. You can only do this if they are clean, they can only be cleaned by disassembling the movement and washing and drying it. The oil will only stay where you place it by capillary action, which only works in a clean and dry pivot jewel assembly. So the answer is simple, if your goal is to have a correctly oiled movement... Anyone who tells you otherwise, is not informed about how watches work or how they are oiled. RG

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ETA part number 242/1 is a cannon pin wheel without any seconds hole, it looks identical to the 6497 cannon pin gear and has a flat top. You also need the new seconds wheel part number 227/3 as it is designed to fit this cannon pin and has the bearing in a different location than the other one, clipping the tip off the existing gear is not the way to do the mod. You have to measure the hour wheel first and match up the cannon pin to the hour wheel, to make sure you get the correct length one, they come in 4 different sizes. I have ordered them before for your type of watch and they are available. Just make sure you get all 3 to match, cannon gear, hour wheel, and seconds gear. RG

It sounds like the balance cap jewel in the mainplate (under the dial) has come loose. If it runs fine dial up and stops running dial down, then most likely the jewel is out of place causing the balance to stop working. It could be something else, but this is the most likely problem from your description. RG

It's actually Kruzer's watch, you may want to contact him and see if he's interested. RG

Then you have to take the dial and hands off and see what the problem is with the set lever and keyless works. Since this is a 7753 I caution you to not take it apart unless you are very confidant in your skills. The 7753 is much more of a challenge to work on than a 7750, and there are NO Spare parts available...you break something the movement is junk. I have one 7753 in the shop that Finepics ruined, and I can't fix it due to no spare parts available... RG

The first thing I would do is to make sure the stem is not cut too short. You can do this one of two ways, first you need another stem, perferably a new one that is not cut down. Insert this stem into the movement with it in the case and see if it locks in place. If you don't have a new stem, then the only way to eliminate the stem as being the problem is to remove the movement from the case and insert the existing stem and crown into the movement and see if it locks in place. If it locks in place then you know the stem is too short. The keyless works on the 7750 is well made and not a problem like the 2836, so the first step is to confirm that the keyless works is working correctly and you can lock the stem in place. To do this you need to eliminate the stem as being the cause of your problem. RG

Great looking box D, good looking collection as well, I think the empty hole should be filled sometime soon. RG