stilty

Like this: Each number was completely redrawn as a vector from a scan of a genuine disc. Then painstakingly laid out to match the ETA progression. Anyway, Omega, your project looks fantastic! Nice job! Looks like it already has a new home!

I didn't get any pics of the show... but I did get one pic before the show!

CONGRATS!!!! It is the best thing that will ever happen in your life! My first, a daughter as well, was born on Dec. 25. She's coming up on her 2nd birthday. And as corner mentioned, the best is yet to come! Now log off, go get some sleep. you will need it!

Thanks for the tips. Yeah, we were thinking the W times square as it is central and easy to get around, and more funky. I want to burn up my points, so we are limited to those properties. Anyone know when the Yankees tickets go on sale? It looks like we will be in town for the season home opener.

I'm planning a getaway with the wife in the spring. We're thinking NYC. anyway, gonna use points for this trip. Unfortunately, the hotel selection is very limited with my reward points. Here is what I'm down to: W - Times Square Best Western Bowery Hanbee Sheraton Hotel & Towers I've checked tripadvisor, and the only hotel that is even rated in the top 100 is the Best Western Bowery. #82 out of 407 hotels. I'm thinking the W Times Square. Any thoughts? From what I've been reading, the reviews for all the W's have not been that favorable. A [censored] load of points too! It's been about 5 years since I've been to NYC, and I used to stay with my sister when she lived there.

hey guys, I'm expecting some brass blanks tomorrow. Took a while to source them and they had to be custom made. I was sent a few samples in steel and they look good. It is a difficult medium to work with. It is very thin. But a lot more stiff than paper or vinyl. They will be pad printed, as gen. I'm also waiting for the machine shop to finish my jig to hold and support the blank for printing (expensive, yet necessary.) Also waiting for the cliche for the printer (another expensive part). I just hope with all this work and research, I get the results I'm looking for. Stay tuned.

yes, a few numbers are slightly left. I noticed this after spending hours trying to fix the alignment on a few frankens. It is just the way it is.

is that just a plain sticker on the caseback?

2.69 is the total length of the CP It would depend on how deep the CP sits in the movement, and how tall the dial seat it. For example. On the ETA 2836-2, if your CP is 2.70, the height over the dial seat is 1.40. (Dial seat is basically the back of the dial, or where the dial rests on the movement.) So, if you subtract the thickness of the dial, typically 0.40, then the hand would sit 1.00 over the dial.

2mm is a big jump. I don't think you will be able to find the parts to do this, without getting them custom made and that will cost you some big $$$. A quick glance at the 214 parts list shows the CP is available in 3 heights. 2.30mm, 2.44 mm, 2.69mm. It's not looking good I'm afraid.

"What a lovely pair!" Something I normally only say to the wife!

It is all genuine. I did try to test fit, but I didn't want to push it too hard. Probably the rep would need a bit of sanding with emery cloth to get the gen to fit.

Well, I do have to sympathize with the issues you are having. We all have our expectations and obviously in this case, they have not been met. I know I've been let down over the years, and I bet nearly every member has as well. That is why I now focus on modding, and building, so I get what I want. Couple of things to point out, and I am not picking sides with you or the dealer. Just my observation: 1.) If you were not happy with the watch, why did you wear it? It is now a used watch, regardless of any QC issues. You should not have worn it if you were not happy. 2.) You mention it is not waterproof and it fogs up. I notice in one of your posts, there is a picture with the case back off to show the 'infamous' engravings. Sorry, but I don't think any watchmaker, or dealer, will honor any warranty if you removed the case back. If not properly reinstalled, there is a risk of waterproof issues, as well as the risk of dirt, dust, and lint, getting into the movement. Anyway, just some food for thought on future purchases. I hope everything works out.

Yes, I can measure that for you. I was out of town for a few days, so no chance to do anything but family activities.

Sure, until you kill somebody in a crosswalk or hit someone head on. I used to have a tolerance for speeding and reckless driving, and did so myself, but when my Mother was killed by a douche bag that was doing 80 in a 50 my view has changed. Not only did he take my Mother, but he killed himself, his wife, and his sister-in-law. My father was also in a wheelchair for two years. Ask me what I think of assholes that think they are above the law.

Let me guess... the first dollar you ever earned? Wish I kept mine.

holy crap! that is a beauty! I'm guessing all gen?

I can test fit a gen insert into the V.3 bezel. But it is glued in, just like the V.1. So before I even attempt it, I feel I already have my answer. Anyway, for those of us, myself included, that thought the problem with fitting the gen insert was the retaining ring. I now know that the retaining ring is fine. In fact, it is pretty much 1:1 of the gen. It is the ET bezel that is causing the problem. The gen insert snaps in no problem with a nice fit, but it is that the bezel sits too low on the retaining ring and caused the back of the insert to touch the top of the retaining ring. I don't know if there is a fix for this. Maybe a 0.40mm shim or spacer between the bezel and retaining ring? Anyway, on a side note, the camera shop called and the D80 is repaired, so I should be able to post some better pics.

*** UPDATE *** Okay, I need to clarify that the ET bezel as pictured in the original post is from a V1 Sub. It seems the factory updated the bezel on the V3 case. Below is a picture of the V3 bezel. I was assuming that they were the same, but they are NOT! The V3 is an improvement over the V1. I must remember to never assume because it only makes an ASS out of U and ME! The machining on the V3 bezel is an improvement over the V1. Also, the click teeth seem thicker, and they did not machine as deep in the bezel. I measured from the bottom of the bezel to the bottom of the teeth and it is 1.40mm deep. The gen is still only 1.10mm, but the V3 is a lot more closer. I have not tried to install a genuine insert in the new set up so I can't comment if it will fit or not. ET V.3 Bezel vs Gen Bezel

So I picked up a genuine bezel assembly and figured I would do a quick comparison and show the results here. Here is a comparison of the crystal retaining ring. Genuine on the left. The ET ring looks pretty good. The only thing you notice right away is the cutout on the ID of the ET ring to hold the gasket. Here is the back. The ET looks pretty good. The gen is definitely finished better with nice smooth edges. The ET has some sharp edges and does not feel as good to the touch. The gasket cut out on the gen is a bit deeper. Here are some measurements that I took: Genuine 2.90mm H 37.55mm OD 30.55mm ID ET 2.90mm H 37.65mm OD 30.50mm ID The height measurement really threw me off. Other members, myself included, have had problems installing a genuine insert. It is impossible to install as it appears the retaining ring is too tall, but obviously, that is not the case. It is the same height as the gen. I'll get to why you can't install a genuine insert in the ET bezel in a minute. Next I look at the bezel. Here is where the ET falls short when compared to the gen. First, here is the teeth on the gen bezel. Nice deep cutouts. Here are the teeth on the ET. Not even in the same league. So here are some measurements I took of the two. Genuine 2.56mm H 40.00mm OD ET 2.60mm H 39.90mm OD Okay, now I'm really confused. I'm thinking to myself. The retaining rings are the same height, so the bezel must be too thin and that is why you cannot properly fit a gen insert in the ET bezel. Wrong! There goes that theory. The ET bezel is actually thicker than the gen. Now I am really puzzled. I'm thinking why did I just drop $300 on a gen bezel assembly when the ET set up is nearly 1:1? I now find my answer.... I spend a few minutes trying to figure it out. Why can't a gen insert be seated in the ET bezel without pushing against the retaining ring? Look at the difference in how deep the rep factory cut up into the bezel as compared to the gen. Here is the bottom of the gen bezel. Notice how thick the notches are for the click spring. Now look at the ET bezel. Look how far up they cut into the back of the bezel. I take a measurement. From the bottom of the bezel to the teeth, the cut out is 1.10mm deep. On the ET bezel, the cut is 1.53mm! They cut too much out so the bezel sits too low on the retaining ring! That is why the back of the gen insert pushes against the retaining ring. I'm also guessing that is why a gen or clarks crystal looks too tall when installed in the case. The other difference is the washer. The gen is 1.90mm wide and the ET is 1.60mm wide. This may also affect how low the ET bezel sits on the retaining ring. I didn't try it, but you may want to try and replace that part before you go filing down the retaining ring on the ET. Or, maybe it is possible to fit two washers in the ET bezel in order to help it sit higher on the retaining ring. Now, I'm sure you want to know how the gen set up looks on the ET case. I installed on a V3 case. The case needs some work still. So don't mind the lug holes, the CG's or the nasty lug engravings. Here is the retaining ring installed Here is the bezel and click spring installed Here is a side shot And another Everything looks pretty good here... nice recessed insert, proper crystal height shot of the tritium pearl. gotta buff out those engravings... serious cringe factor Anyway, I hope you enjoyed the comparison and review and this answers some questions on why you can't fit a gen insert in a Eurotimez sub. Please don't mind the pictures. I didn't have a lot of time to spend on them.

without seeing the part and measuring it, that is a tough one to answer. but my gut says that no.

I don't think that loosening the clamps and trying to shift the movement is going to do anything The movement has to be lined up in order for the crown to fit in the tube. There is no way around it. Your dials looks out of alignment and I doubt it is the movement. Either the dial feet are slightly off on the dial, or the dial has no feet and it is just attached with double sided tape. But by all means, give loosening the clamps a shot.

You are correct in both points. A taller CP is required in order for the hands to clear the dial markers, as well as compensate for fitting the movement in the case.

Sorry about that. With the 2824-2, it is not that difficult to swap the discs. Basically just one screw to remove the minute train bridge. This is a cover that holds down the minute wheel, as well as the teeth on the date disc. I'll try and post something later to show you. With the 2836-2, there are few more steps, but I haven't worked on one is while, so I don't really remember everything off hand. Anyway, with the 2836-2, there is no need to remove the disc.

Your trading in a fuel efficient VW for an SUV? Maybe the guy doesn't know a thing about watches and it was a gift. Did you end up making a deal with him anyway?