TeeJay

Does the other wrist read 'Need'?

All the time an a21j can be adjusted to +0.2 seconds per day, with nothing more technical than a pair of rubber gloves, a screwdriver, and a constant time source (pc, radio-controlled clock etc) I'm not convinced that more expensive movements are actually worth the extra money. Sure, the more expensive movements might be serviceable, but a21js are replaceable, several times over, for the cost of a single movement servicing, to me, that simply makes more economic sense... As you say, it's a diverse community, but it's the passion for watches which brings us all together, at the end of the day, irrespective of the costs, they're all 'just watches'

Awesome post, I agree entirely with those points, and that's a great suggestion on how to put cash aside for when a good deal presents itself

I wouldn't like to say if the movement would be a genuine or an Asian clone, but as mentioned before, even the cheaper Asian 21j movements can be adjusted to as accurate time keeping as the more expensive movements, so personally, I cannot see the point in spending the extra money... As for why sizes are listed differently, I would not like to say... As mentioned above, the WM9 Sub really is the best available

I know you're just busting my balls, amigo I'm a big fan of Tudors... They not only have the 'stealth factor' of not being Rolex, but the dials have more variety and are more 'readable' than the regular Sub dials

I would say it's been these three (in various forms of completion) The thing I like most about them, is they're a little break from the norm of the usual suspects when it comes to Lexs And the fact that the dial graphics were from an awesome guy, also gives a lot of sentimental value, thanks again, R

+1 I love that watch, although I believe it should be Tudor branded

It's no problem, I'm happy to help I've bought mine from various dealers over the years, depending on financial commitments. This is a link to the dealer who I bought the GMT Master II from, which I recently reviewed and modified, and it will allow you to view not only their goods for sale, but also feedback from their buyers. I don't think they have the 2010 Submariner which you are interested in, but they do have a nice range of budget watches, which, while not perfect, are certainly good value for money I have never had any customs problems with watches at all

No problem, I'm glad to be of help. Things like dealers saying that a case is 316L, falls under the category of what is described on this forum, as 'Little White Lies'. In some instances, it is just marketing hype on the part of the dealers, in other instances, it can be where a dealer is not an expert in watches, but is literally just a person 'selling a product', so if their suppliers tell them that the case is 316L, they believe what the supplier tells them... (Not the best business practice, but that's simply the nature of the game ) Even if the case is not 316L, it will still be Stainless Steel, so it will not go yellow with wear. When I (and many others) have artificially aged cases for vintage projects, it has involved sanding them and striking the cases with sharp things and drilling through the lugs, and that has always just revealed more stainless steel, not yellow metal, so the cases are not plated to look silver, they are just not the same grade of stainless steel as would be used in a genuine Rolex. Looking at the watch shown in the link, I think you will wind up with a good quality watch, which will not need winding daily, and with the correct periodic servicing (which all mechanical watches require), it should last a lifetime

Thanks I know what you mean there, a few dings alone isn't going to make a watch look old, it's the hairfine scuffs from the Scotchbrite buffing and the areas which are polished shiny by friction (which don't really show up in those photos) which give the aged effect

Indeed, the look I was going for, was to give the watch just enough character to say it's been worn, and is not brand new, but not enough to make it look abused

That would teach him

Thanks, bro, I'm really happy with how it's come out If he doesn't like it, I'll keep it for myself

That's a rough situation... I guess the only option would be to refuse the import tax, and let them confiscate it without admitting it was counterfeit, but that still means losing the watch. One thing's for sure, I'll now only ever take the watch I'm wearing abroad with me, rather than one for everyday, and one for 'dressing up' formally...

They might mean that the insert is ceramic-coated metal, not plastic. Ceramic-coated, while being more durable than the painted metal insert of older Submariners, will still not be 100% scratch-proof. Without destroying the insert, you are not really going to be able to tell either way if it is truly solid ceramic or just ceramic-coated... As in my previous reply, there was a discussion a while back where replicas have been scientifically proven to not be 316L. If a dealer is advertising this, chances are they are lying. For the simple reason that they are replica parts, so not made from the same grade material as genuine Rolex. I have a replica nearly two years old where the crown is as good as the day I received it. I used to have an Omega Planet Ocean replica which had to have the crown and tube replaced as the threads had stripped. Many things about replica watches can be 'luck of the draw'. Crowns and tubes can always be replaced with genuine parts, but this requires either the skills to do the work yourself, of contact with a good watchsmith or watch builder who can make the switch for you. Ahh, I understand. Some watches have a serial numbers engraved, some do not, it seems to be pretty much the luck of the draw as to what stock is available. Same with the sticker... Sometimes it is holographic, sometimes it is just a green sticker. Price is not an accurate gauge in this matter... I bought a replica 5517 Submariner for about £30 which has serial number and model number etched between the lugs. I bought a replica GMT Master II from the same dealer, for a similar price, which does not have a serial number or model number etched between the lugs. However. The GMT Master II does have the correct bracelet and clasp, rather than having the bracelet and clasp from a Submariner installed, which was what happened with a previous GMT Master II I bought (and have since converted into a Tudor 79190). To be perfectly honest with you, Asian movements can be adjusted to keep just as accurate time as a Swiss movement, there is no need to pay the additional cost for a 'Swiss movement' (which will probably only be an Asian clone) This also saves on repair costs... A mechanical movement requires servicing appx every 5 years. While many watchsmiths will not work on Asian movements, if you can install the movement yourself, it would be cheaper to buy five new asian movements (at least) compared to the cost of getting one serviced. As before, I think your expectations are unrealistic considering you are buying a replica watch. Unless you plan on dismantling the watch and observing it daily, it really does not matter if the watch has serial numbers, a sticker on the caseback or a swiss movement. Besides, it says Rolex on the dial, so anyone seeing it will believe it to be fake regardless of how perfect it is, because in the minds of many, Rolex = Fake (because the brand is so widely known to be copied) As others have said, if that really is the level of detail/perfection which you must have in the watch, buy the real thing. People will assume that is fake as well (because it also says Rolex on the dial) If, on the other hand, you simply want the best replica available, then I'm sure you will be happy with your purchase

I believe Rolex's official policy, is that a person may carry one Rolex by hand into the US without any kind of proofs. Also, and I may be wrong on this, but I believe I've read that ownership of any kind of replica goods is illegal in France. It might not have been a case of it being a watch, just that it was 'counterfeit' which was the issue... I find it strange that such a heavy fine (which makes sense) could be reduced so drastically.

I guess that's the thing, when someone has the skills and tools to actually make a piece themselves, they can make sure the dimensions are 100% as they want them, rather than aftermarket 'close enough is good enough' QC... I bet that was a fantastic experience to be able to see the original that close, I would have loved to have attended something like that, but of course, being the wrong side of the pond tends to be a bit restrictive

I'm not sure about the dial, but if I recall, VDBroucke custom-machined the crystal himself

I've highlighted the ones which're unrealistic. -Submariner black with date (highest quality grade 1) -2010 Model with genuine dimensions (If you cann tell me if it's 41mm or 40mm and which Tickness ?) -Rolex engraved on Rehault with serial number -Ceramic Bezel (not plastic & scracth resistant) -Movement Genuine ETA 2836-2, swiss made, new and never used, not a copy, -"Reserve of marche (the watch must work) at least 40 hours after being winded and without being worn -Sapphire crystal glass -Solid case 316L Steel and scratch resistant -Solid and resistant CROWN (not pulling up after some years) -All Rolex check control present on the watch like genuine -Water resistant You might be lucky and get 40 hours power reserve out of a movement, but getting a new and never used genuine Swiss made ETA 283-2, is unlikely. The bezel might be ceramic, rather than ceramic coated, but aesthetically speaking, it would make no difference. As for the 316L Stainless, there was a discussion about that some time ago, here's a link to the results. The crowns of replica watches (especially the Omega Planet Ocean) are well known weak points in the build quality. If you want a watch with all Rolex check controls, buy a real Rolex, nothing else (in terms of replicas) will meet that standard of quality control and checking. What is available to buy as a replica can be of very good quality, but they are not really to the level which you have described, and I think if you were to order a watch thinking you would receive those kind of checks/metallurgical make up/movement etc, you would be disappointed, and you might be better off trying to source parts to build the watch yourself, so you have precisely what you want Best of luck with your purchase though

I have to admit, I was thinking the same thing. I guess it's because the item was 'in transit', rather than 'on the person' which gives them the leeway to ask, but it's crazy if people are going to have to start carrying receipts for every item of luggage they might be traveling with

+1 I know that feeling, my friend I'm wearing these two... The GMT, I'm still adjusting the timing, as I want to get it spot on accurate before I send it to my friend, and we're going to a friend's houseparty later, so I'll be putting my Tudor back on for that

Who are you planning on buying from? I'm sorry, but I think your expectations are unrealistic for a replica watch...

In the end, I decided not to customize the GMT Master II, reviewed here, for my friend. I couldn't see the point. He's not a watch enthusiast, so wouldn't appreciate it, and a non-standard color scheme would only draw attention to him wearing a 'fake', so I figured the safest bet was wabi-sabi camouflage. That's not to say he couldn't afford to be wearing a brand new gen, but if this watch was early 2000s manufacture, it wouldn't be 100% pristine. Unlike my previous vintaging projects, which involved some pretty serious abuse to recreate 50 years of wear and tear, this was much more restrained, and confined to some scuffing of the insert, and applying hair-fine 'desk diving' scuffs all over the case and bracelet with a Scotchbrite pad

Sorry to hear, bro, that's crazy. Interesting how they were able to reduce the 45000 fine to 100... I think you're right about the fate of the watch though

Like others, I'm in awe of such a fantastic project build