hologramet

I have uncureable pancreatic cancer, but this thread isnt about me. When I feel my time is coming, I’ll start a thread.

David.. this might seem a bit strange, but I’m in the process of kicking the bucket myself. Selling off watches, collectibles,audiophile parts etc. I know that my parents have No clue what is what. What I want to say is..(I don’t know the degree of nerdyness you got in this hobby). If the inheritancea are unclear What is genuine, what is ”aftermarket” and help with valuation I’ll gladly help. Who knows, those funds could help a local charity or something.. I’m just expressing my thoughts, that swirl around. P.S. Don’t wait to long with help, at least from my part as I might have started the real journey by then.

Rest in peace Bob. Calmness, wisdom and wits. David, remarkable men like your father are very rare. I wish I could write more, but this has affected me more than I thought. Now I know why you never sent me that picture to show how you 6536 looked with the replacement insert I sent you. Hope you got to enjoy it though, even if just for a day. And that beautiful Panerai 6154 with desert/tan dial I built you 7 years ago.. that one I know you loved.

Yeah it's fake. The end links and absence of "3D effect" on the hands are my initial tells. A member with patience might probaly find more tells. It has to be opened up and inspect the mvmt.

Shouldn’t this be unpinned? It’s so outdated… So much has happened since SH3135 (aka Yuki). It’s barely used, unless it’s in the watch.. and it’s still better to change it to a VR3135 and then upgrade that…

Shouldn’t this be unpinned? It’s so outdated…

i understand what you meant, but it won’t be a straight on fit, both thickess (not width) of link is different, haft the bracelet will be hollow and also screw placement is a bit different. Even of they theoretically fit it won’t be that amazing. I know because I’ve built my own but with 580/93150 and with 93250. To make it optimal I would use a rep bracelet, e.g. 97200 close to the clasp and links in the visciniyy and the rest gen 93160. But it’s your cash going down the drain for a finished marriage that might look ok at first glance, but is a bit off when further examnining it. This can be made a tint bit better with polishing/grinding a bit on the 97200… Also even from Rolex AD the bracelet is about 1900€+ and you’ll often need a Ceramic Sub (depending on your relationship) to get one. I would never use a gen one for such a project, but like I said.. it’s your cash.

Uhm.. What do you mean keep it all gen? A 97200 won’t fit the lugs properly as far as I know.. You’ll still have to create a marriage of SELs + fixed links and the glidelock.. and you’ll most likely have to adapt the modern parts together with the ålder stuff.

I have both a gen 93160 and 93160A clasp of you need. Otherwise I’d say ZZF and ARF and VSF are basically the same clasp. It’s going to scream replica either way and you might be forced to adapt some links to get a uniform transition from 93160-links to the 116610/Glidelock clasp links.

I completely agree with you on that point. Thank you very much Rolex making repping easier. Same think with Grand Seikos divers. My two favorite watches (Daytona & 44mm Spring Drive Diver) have some of the most beautiful ”serial produced”-movements, hidden. 🥲

automatico .. that isn’t 100% correct.. They have KIF shocks, and are Top grade regarding the rest; Glucydur spring etc..Don’t remember if they are/used to be chrono certified. Also.. what’s the point of it being engine turned if the bridge isn’t engraved.

Let me know if you need a gen 93160 or 93160A clasp. Beautiful btw! Gen dial?

RJ. Bivintagestore is the go-to Guy for cases (he makes the base cases with custom engravings and the whole shebang). Regarding inserts ”crownartcustoms” is the go-to guy nowadays. PM me for contact info to both. You too J! We’be been missing you! Yeah… I sold parts to taiwanese/hong long the last 2-3 years for absurd sums. No doubt about where the cash is currently.

The bubble will burst. A 79090 for 8000€. A 2000€ watch 10 years ago. Crazy……

Truly welcome back, the one and only O.G. Rolo!

Then his latest is the way to go... contact him via instagram och via RWG Red triangle Tall5 for 5510, 5508 and 5512 square/eagle beak cg around 59-60

This one was just released by him: [imf]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210529/764fdebc9d1f2a88c1fef67dc77cc0e8.png[/img] ———— And below is 1/2 I have. The other one is more tropical/aged and going in a purple hue like the gen ones.

I have a perfect Tall5 redtriangle insert from Crownartcustoms. That is the most accurate one.

INSERTS OF ROLEX AND TUDOR DIVING WATCHES OF THE ROLEX ACRYLIC ERA researched and written by Xeramic, on VintageRolexForum © 2021, all rights reserved 1 INTRODUCTION 2 SIDE EFFECT 3 THE MAKING-OF 4 LEVEL OF DETAIL 5 MISPRINTS 6 COLOR AND SURFACE VARIATIONS 7 DIMENSIONS 8 SPOTTING THE VERSIONS 9 NUMBERING OF THE VERSIONS 10 VERSIONS 11 BACKS AND BORDERS 12 LUME PEARLS 13 HOW TO USE 14 A WORD ABOUT FAKES 15 FINAL NOTES 1 INTRODUCTION This is an in-depth article about the contemporary bezel inserts of Rolex and Tudor diving watches of the Rolex acrylic era (so, up to 1990, with the very latest ref. 5513 – I didn’t extend my research to the remained years of the last Tudor acrylic Sub ref. 79090). Besides of the dial, the insert is the most esthetic-relevant and – due to aging/wear – also the most individualizing part on vintage Subs or Sea-Dwellers; fully exposed to environment conditions but not to refurbish, it’s a highly sought-after and valuable spare. The goal of this documentation is to enable you to identify any era-conform version, to distinguish genuine from aftermarket stuff as well as correct from incorrect watch configurations, and – thanks to the detailed font descriptions – to spot versions even on blurry or incomplete images; further, to eliminate common uncertainties in regard to dimensions, surface properties, color variations, back profiles and lume dots. (EDIT: and there you have it folks, the introduction to the most complete and well-researched Rolex bezel inserts guide I have ever had the pleasure of reading. This is a Copyrighted work and as such the author has requested RWG keep only the Introduction here, with a link to its current published location. This makes sense, as all detailed works such as this go through edits and enhancements over time. Having the source document in only one location gives us all access to the freshest information available. Please visit the VintageRolexForum to read the rest of this piece: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/vintagerolexforum/inserts-of-rolex-and-tudor-diving-watches-of-the-r-t266367.html -Admin) Thanks for reading, stay healthy, Xeramic

It’s basically hopeless. The perfect dial karge whole thing Check with philwongz above.

I have a spare one should anyone wish to buy it..

EverestWatchWorks He can make a custom tone with SL BGW9 with SL C3. Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk

You really didn’t read like 6 posts up did you? [emoji37]

Athaya has both a tube for gen 702 and a tube+crown that is aftermarket. You most likely have a 703-crown and the 703-0 tube. It has a similar look to the 702... But is thicker/wider/protrudes more. In my experience.. it’s most often the plexi/crystal retainer fitment that seems to be the problem when WR is needed.

I have a hard time saying one would be better than the other... it’s just a metal ring..