Timelord

Greetings to all! I have a 16610 replica which was originally purchased from Silix sitting in one of my drawers which I had totally forgotten about. Probably because the ""sapphire"" crystal strangely popped out at one stage and I never did anything about it - one weak point that I cannot be too defensive when it comes to replicas. I still have both crystal and gasket (which I skeptical of) i.e the crystal is pressed into the gasket as opposed to having a crystal ring pressing on oem gasket. I recently came across to someone in my town who has a crystal ring which is made for the generic sapphire crystals to fit genuine models. If I am not mistaken this crystal has an indent on the edge of the crystal which sits perfectly into the seal seat which is pressed in by crystal ring. Crystal measures approx. 30.4mm which I believe is fairly standard . My question is if anyone has ever replaced their replica case crystal with one that is made for a genuine so that the crystal ring will allow the bezel to be snapped on it without a problem???? Thanks for any input!!!!!

I have seen this analogy with the solid gold cases they used to sell on star supply that are advertised for a day/ date to cater for both 3055/3155. iNow that is what I call taking a risk!!! Better gambling odds at las vagas I wished!!!! Which is what I am hoping for, because most of the cases for 2824 are fairly useless in the rep builds unless they are for non date builds!!! LOL!!! Thanks!!! This would be the ideal way to know. I should have clarified in my OP that I don't have neither of the two movements to check against as I need to buy the right one. This is why I posted to ask if there was any other way to tell by measuring the internal position of the case and stem hole position. In hind site I now realise that i have posted a silly question.

Thanks!! I tried to post higher resolution images but my iPad just isn't cooperating. I purchased this case many moons ago and the seller was then known as TG trade according to my last PayPal receipt. Problem is that he may have had both 2836 and 2824 cases, so I am not sure which case he would have sold me hoping that the internal dimensions would have revealed some info. I notice it even now with most other sellers they label them as eta 2824/2836 cases which is annoying!!!

I will give it a go. I am not sure how these images will help, but I guess that a picture says 1000 words. Made several edits but not sure if I nailed it this time

A while back before I knew bettter, I bought a sterile watch case on ebay that was advertised to suit eta 2836/2824 and ST2130. As I now understand it ; if a case is built for a 2836 - a 2824 movement we'll not work ( due to stem hole not lining up properly with stem mvt ) and conversely, if the case is made for a 2824, the 2836 obviously won't work due to the fact that it is too thick. Now, to all those who know more about this, is there a way to tell for which of the two eta mvts the case is made for. Without having to buy both movements and try them out. I emailed the seller whom I have purchased more times to ask if he had more details about what he sold me and honestly said he did no know apart that all he knew was that it was 2836/2824. I measured the internal with a Vernier caliper where distance from dial seat to stem hole centre was 2.2mm and to the edge of the case from dial seat was 5.5mm. If these figures mean anything??? Thanks in advance!!

Very touching and emotional story.!!!!! Especially about your dad, bringing me close to tears in missing my late father!! It is posts like this that make belonging to this forum being beyond the love of a watch and even more bizarre -replica watches or knock offs - whatever labels one puts on them!! I don't want to hijack this thread as By-Tor's original post is along the same lines. Lovely post by him too! I have both genuine submariner and a rep SSD V2 seadweller modified by Jakjo with all the hand made works including a genuine eta. I value both very highly and really see little difference between both in terms of quality especially with all the attention done by the modder. I have never had an issue with my rep and it too has been a true workhorse, no different to any other genuine made watch. I suppose if I replace the dial with a sterile one, it would be seen astronomically differently by the critics. It can all Boil down to marketing where it is all in the mind. It would take a room full of head shrinks to sort that one. As you said quality control with high quality items letting you down, just says t is the luck of he draw. Thanks for sharing!!!

I wished!!!!!! I replaced the uncut stem with an arbitrary crown and all the time and date setting worked normal, so I am certain it isn't keyless works. Thanks !!!! Just what I was looking for and at the same time dreaded, as it would have been easier to replace the crown provided they were available. Interesting read, however the photos would have helped if they weren't removed, very educational !!!!

Thanks for pointing that out!!!! I know that the date only mvt 2824 is not preferred because the DWO would not work well on it, but if one were to replace the canon pinion with a higher one as with the 2834', it should eliminate the problem with the 2824 which could then also be a good candidate for the DWO to work without problems?

I have a planet ocean 45.5 mm omega rep which has a faulty crown. It screws on and off well but when turning it to set he time nothing happens. I even checked the stem inside and it s definitely turns when I turn stem with a tweezer Ideal all solution is to buy one - all good in theory provided it was available for sale, but as with rep parts we know the same old story. So I am stuck with making the most of what I have. I recall reading years ago on one nawcc site that.a certain guy named Steve Maddox writing up about repairing them, but am not so sure how to go about it. I am all ears for any feedback with thanks

Greetings fellows some time ago! I purchased a two tone submariner from a fellow member and it has been a great work horse, When I opened it up to reattach one of the batons that had fallen off I noticed that the eta stamp read 2834-2 instead of 2836- which all of my other ones have and that everyone else here speaks about. Has as anyone ever noticed this in any of their reps as my understanding is that only a 2836 would work because of the room for the date wheel overlay to function without rubbing against anything. I am aware that a 2824 will not work either because of the lack of space under the dial since the canon pinion would be too short, but a 2834 has the exterior day wheel which sits above the date wheel which is just as bizarre . It is puzzling to me unless the wrong number was stamped on the ebauche ??? I would appreciate some education from you guys more familiar on this!!! thanks heaps!!!!

A world of thanks!!!!

Many thanks!! If you have his contact details you can also PM me!

Thanks for your response! Ideally I would have contacted Silix just as you said.!! However from my previous experiences, they do not sell spare parts unless it advertised in their components section. In the days of when Jay and Angel were running Silix, they bent backwards to help out customers. I suppose anyone that has this bezel on theirs may be kind enough to measure theirs to inform me the measurements as different replica companies vary in their product sizes.

Greetings fellows, I have lost my bezel with orange insert to my 45 mm planet ocean omega I purchased from Silix a couple of years ago. Does anyone know if the aftermarket ones sold for the genuine could substitute for a silix replica. Just devastated with how it could have happened. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated with thanks!!

He was one of my favourite British Leading men of the cinema. I truly loved his British accent being very distinctive -even different from that of the Royal Family. He and my late father also shared the same birthday and age. I just loved the 1960's series "The Saint" and really admired the way the Rolex submariner looked on him in the Bond movie "Live and Let Die". I was 8 when I first saw that movie on TV and always wanted a Rolex submariner. May he and Dad both rest in Peace with all those dearly departed loved ones that were once part of all our lives!!!!!

Wow!! A spectacular conclusion.!!You have hit the nail on the head full force and you have read most of our inner psychology!! That truly sums it all up and I could not have put it better myself!! As for the quartz -every second tick, both rolex and omega- as well as other watch companies also made a mechanical model decades ago that ticks like a quartz such as the rolex true beat for example, but weren't very popular. i also agree with your comment on the replica as I also have a highly modded MBW submariner where I have genuine crown, case tube..dial and clark crystal kit and it has passed the pressure test with flying colors, even better than my genuine TAG. I also look as it as almost hand made!!!! It is all in the psychology as if I replace it with a sterile dial, it is a genuine watch in it's own right! Just look at the ocean steinhart!! I could have my name printed on my sterile dial! Lol!

All my rolex reps that I have all have 2836 or clone 2836 apart from one I purchased from another dealer that had a 2834 in it which puzzles me with how this one works as the day wheel is the curved outer one on the .2834 I have never seen a rolex rep with a 2824 which is why I posted this thread in the first place, so that if anyone has ever seen one or pulled theirs apart could hopefully enlighten me with how to go about what I can do to duplicate it. I believe that the datewheel spacer that comes with a 2836 is different from one that comes from a 2824,unless I am mistaken which brings me back to where I started before posting this thread. Thanks for offering to find one, they are easily available on ebay, however the problem is finding the right one and then what modifications are needed to make it work?.

This sounds more interesting than I had imagined and again thanks for your input. Seems to me that you have done something like this before. What modifications would you recommend apart from my guessing to sand this 2836 spacer? This is what I like about forums like this, where people improvise & think outside the square. It is almost like solving a mathematical puzzle. To clarify what my aim is . A couple of years ago, I was was gifted an Alpha submariner which was a great everyday watch and was even great to swim in because it kept dry. During day light saving, I stupidly did not screw down the crown and somehow got water inside corroding the mvt and dial. Even though the watch was inexpensive , the case is still good and I have a spare eta submariner dial and DWO, but case will only accept 2824 otherwise an eta 2836 would have solved the situation

Many thanks!!! So a dial spacer that comes for eta 2836 could not work as a dial washer if it can be sanded down to make it thinner if the problem would be thicknessl???? Or is it possible to buy a TC 2824 movement holder from somewhere as this is news to me. Never seen one Just wondering as It first time, I would be working with a 2824, being novice with this! thanks!!!

Greetings to all, I have a date wheel overlay for a raffles submariner dial with dial feet for eta. I see a lot of eta submariners with DWO on 2836, but none on 2824. Since my watch case is made for a 2824 and it would not work with a 2836, could a DWO work on an eta 2824? (The distance from the stem centre opening of the case to the dial mount is 2.2mm which would make it a case for eta 2824) thanks!!

Cartier Santos back screws Greetings to all , I was searching archives to see if anyone had this problem before me and if there was some solution/ idea but no luck. about three or four years ago, I purchased a Cartier Santos from Silix that originally came out with an automatic and was later replaced with a quartz mvt. Changing the battery was easy, BUT the problem was when I tried to screw the back screws to close off the case, I noticed they would tun forever and not screw down at all. I was extra careful in removing them and putting them back on. I did not want to silicone the back onto case as it is a bodgie dodgie job, especially if I need to change battery again and having to remove a lot of messy crap. I like things to be as neat as possible. Has as anyone ever encountered this problem and if so, I would like your feedback on this. The best would be to retap the threads and buy new screws, which I do not find feasible for I watch that I had bought for someone that changed their mind about it.

Thanks again. It is just that someone local has a very impressive one for sale at what I think is a great price, but was in a dilemma as to either pull the trigger or just play wait for something more like a BP SD for later Was Nice to get feedback

Thanks for your input. Much appreciated!!!! I had almost given up on hoping for a response! Wow, I learn something new every day. I was under the impression that jackjo used ordinary sub cases and modified them to be as close to the genuine case. I was unaware that he used SSD V1s & SSD V2s and then made further modifications to them. Makes sense as the one I have seen seems to have a smaller diameter dial opening and thicker case which is what puzzled me as to what sort of case he used to do mods on . They must have been fairly good!!! As there is no substitute for a bezel, would a genuine seadweller Bezel fit or was it a particular sized bezel that was tailor made just for this case???

Hi to all, am considering to purchase a jackjo seadweller from a local owner which is fairly well priced , but before pulling the trigger, I was worried about what replacement parts it takes such as bezel, crystal and inserts in the event I need to replace them. i have done some research on past forum topics and know thaw jackjo was an excellent modder who no longer works on these cases and made a great case from a standard silix case to be as close as to the real thing as possible, but did not necessarily accept oem parts. does anyone who has or has had worked on this case know (1) what bezel insert it takes and if an oem one will do? (2)crystal size? (3) if the whole bezel needs to be replaced if a standard one or I'm one will be a good substitute?? Long shot questions, but any info wold be greatly appreciated with much thanks!!!

Which is what makes life very difficult as to know which parts interchange and which don't. Then, even if one knows which parts do not interchange, there is the problem of where to source clone parts!I guess that this is what he probably meant that when they play up, they become a throwaway and referred to them as junk mvts