Timelord

Very valid question! Just a thought that I will share with you that I think could be a more common issue with those that don't do this on a regular basis! I had a similar problem with my yuki submariner 16610 which I foolishly sold as they are no longer available. Did your dial have 4 dial feet where you had to cut off two of them to accommodate the ones at 10 and 40 position if I recall correctly for the 2836 ? If so, could it be that part of the cut feet under your dial may have left stubs or part of the dial feet are still protruding just under the dial? We are talking of about a feas nose. This may cause an uneven dial or even more so a dial sitting up higher where the feet can just be seen under the movement and not gripped properly from the movement anchors when rotated onto the feet. This is easily overshadowed by the fact that on those movements you can still have the hands working properly due to the higher hour wheel and minute post and the dial not clamped properly onto the movement. If I were to out money in a bet, I am confident that this is your problem. best of luck!

Totally agree!!! The one I purchased was sealed in its silver bag which had Tissot stamped on the rotor and was rhodium colored. That was approximately just under USD200 which was approximately what some unsealed sellitas were selling for. As for anything that is labeled "new without tags" will always scratch my paranoia as they could be Asian clones with eta stampings and a good trap for the untrained eye! As for cloning, very soon with today's technology, you may be able to clone a Picasso and fool untrained billionaires! Lol!

Thanks for that. I was unaware that these hand height kits were also available for the Sellita mechanisms. I recall doing something like this with an eta 2824 where I bought the kit on ebay. Although I saved on having to buy an eta 2836, the cost of the kit ended up being quite expensive. Ok if you have a spare movement to convert but it would be wiser to buy the correct movement in the first place to avoid this extra expense such as the SW220-1 I checked the prices which are almost identical for the complete movement as if you were to buy a genuine eta on ebay. You can get new eta 2836 on ebay ranging from USD150 to USD185 which averages out to the same if not cheaper. I managed to pick up a tissot eta in Australia sealed in a a silver bag for just under USD200 in my last project. Than again it depends on where you buy

Just as I expected!! Better in this case to replace with a generic stainless steel screw down crown. On mine I know it must be 5.5mm - being diameter of crown and most importantly the diameter of the tube end that is pressed onto the case being 2.5mm. I have been unsuccessful so far as the only generic ones I have located are plated screw down crowns. Omega genuine tube will cause problems if case end is too thin. With jb weld it will still break off due to torque used to unscrew and screw down

I can't see your picture. Assuming the minute hand and seconds hand is still on, you can try to fit it on using a very fine tweezer such as a brass 3C size. That is If you are confident in removing movement from the case? I would cut a piece of fine plastic in halves to place over the dial and under the hands to protect the dial. I would then adjust the minute hand to numeral 12 position by slowly turning the crown. Then slowly adjust the hour hand with a tooth pick to the same position whilst over the plastic or any numeral that is dead centre to the hour resting under the minute hand. Slowly use the tips of the tweezer as close to the edges at 180 degrees to each end. of the rim of the hour hand centre and try to gently push down to apply equal pressure to friction press the hand onto the pinion. I have done this numerous times prior to buying my presto hand removal plunger. The proper way is to remove all of the hands using this tool or levers and put them back on one by one. I find that if you have the dg2813 movement, the hands are usually crap grade as they are so weak and tin like that if you pull them off once, they are likely to fall off again as the centres easily become oval and you should really buy a new set of hands which in my opinion is not worth the trouble and cost as it is better to get eta quality equivalent. Good luck!!

Endless thanks! Just hope the case tube fits in the case hole as it must be 2.5mm in diameter on the rep. Genuines and replicas don't always use same size parts.

Definitely better new!! regardless of what the preacher preaches ,Hands down!! Inspected, cleaned and oiled? once bitten = twice shy! Got a bad deal with 2 mvts from a reputable seller here three years ago that claimed exactly this, but were only partially serviced from what was visible where the rest of movts was dry and dirty - not to mention non functioning reverser wheels, very weak mainspring The same dilemma when buying a used car! The day function movement allows room for a DWO. The non day function like the eta2824 will no work properly for a case designed for a 2836 or for one in need of a DWO Very true!

Many thanks!!! I will track them down and give both a go! i rarely buy horology parts from ebay due to my previous unpleasant experiences. However, I won't paint all sellers with the same brush, which is good to know from others like yourself which narrows down the risks where to pull the trigger! Many Thanks!! the last time I enquired with them, they only had the 2824 version. Now they have become stricter with their website.

Greetings friends! I am in the process of replacing an eta movement in a sentimental replica and looked at some clones on ebay. Now I have heard mixed reactions on which clones to buy. I would welcome any feedback on any experiences any of you might have on which clones seem like a good gamble to buy and which ones to avoid. The price difference is very small and if I were to pay more for one over the other would not bother me. They are all made in China and my understanding is that they are assembled dry and need servicing before installation. Sometimes more expensive isn't always better so any advice would be most welcome as I am all ears. Many thanks in advance!!

Thanks!!!! It hasn't been very easy getting items from Cousins UK as in the past, especially with what Omega/Swatch group have done with their spare parts policy. As for SSTEEL, his work is exceptional !!!! The only problem with sending overseas is the issues I have had with our useless postal services. I am still tracking a lost item from 2012 as some postmen don't know how to read ?

Greetings to all!!! A couple of years ago, I purchased a 40th anniversary 007 Bond replica from a forum member for my brother who has been very happy with it ever since. It has now starting to show some wear on the crown thread. I am not sure where forum member purchased it from as he has been inactive on forum for over a year. would anyone know or has had some experience in replacing crown and tube with a generic screw down crown. I am in particularly interested in the measure of the tube of the part that fits into the case. I know that the genuine one does not do the job as it is too short for this sort of case. Also Omega have stopped selling spares just like Roles. Suggestions of replacing it with an ordinary non screw down is an option, but I would like to leave that as the last resort. Any info much appreciated with thanks!!!

Watchuseek is the only forum that I found had the biggest group of morons of the same league stamped out by the same mould. With the exception of a few good guys, you were never short of an idiot making a monkey out of a good post. I was never banned, but I banned myself back in 2006. Hopefully most of those morons have fallen off the tree, but it looks like some have graduated to a higher position of Moron with a capital "m". welcome on board!!!! This place is my second home as we are in the company of intelligent, friendly and compassionate people!!!! Modders and others here have skills that would make a great article on National geographic or on "Ripleys believe it or not" SEASONS GREETINGS to ALL!!

This is a great and useful thread!! I am sure many will be asking about this as time goes on and in my opinion should be part if the sticky once there has been a good contribution of information from various members. I suppose many of us would like to at some stage replace our replica crown and tubes with a genuine one. Some of the forum members that have done it already on more than one occasion and are considering to do it again could take some photos or a footage of the steps involved and add it as a tutorial. It would be great!!. I have learnt a lot from the mod gurus here and I an sure many like myself would treasure this write up!

Wow!! how ingenious!,, just the answer I have been looking for since I ever got into this hobby!! Very clever indeed!! Thanks for sharing!!

Who is bashing? we are all free to do as we please and how and what we find right for us!. You began a thread about "any barefooted walker around here?" And we are all having our say! Relax!!

After last weeks experience, ""N O, NEVER AGAIN !!" I rarely ever walk barefooted unless at the beach or in extreme circumstances where I am forced to. Last week, I went from my front door of the house to the car on the road to pick up our shoe box as we had gone to the pool. I felt like I had stepped on a pebble which I could handle, but after showering I felt as if I had instead stepped on a nail. I kept ignoring it as I thought that I was think about it too much. Come bed time I could not put the palm of my foot flat down. Next morning, I could not walk and had severe swelling under my foot. Went into my clinic and GP sent me directly to hospital. Cutting a long story short,I had the doctor us a scalpel to remove that area removed from under my foot.after a few days of strong antibiotics! Hours later, he came in and showed me that a very fine shard of glass had been trapped there. I am still on strong antibiotics As I write here. Good for you!????Maybe for you, but as far as I am concerned I prefer to live in a civilised world. Why stop at walking in bare feet???? Stop wearing clothes, stop showering, tell the Mrs to stop shaving her legs and armpits, stop washing the dishes and eat out of the same dishes every day. That might also be good for you!!!LOL!!

UPDATE ! Genlemen, I thought that I would fill you in on what caused the problem with my DG2813. As it was a dud, I considered in giving it an autopsy, since it wasn't going to be used. Again another learning experience, which makes this hobby so rewarding. There were two problems with it. (1). It was dry like a desert summer without any oil which surprised me how it was still running and still is after reassembling it (2 ) I checked the balance assembly and regulator and surprise surprise, the regulator arm and hairspring were detached,so no matter how far left or right I moved the arm, I was always moving in first gear regardless It is so damn small that it is near impossible to photograph it. It was very clever how this was covered up as it seems glued just under the tip just to make it swing.

There are plenty of skilled watchmakers here in New Zealand. They just discriminate against replicas.I have a yacht master replica that originally came with a dg2813. It was a dry movement as it stopped after six months, so I purchased a new replacement. Have an eta and was looking for a yacht master dial for the eta with no luck. I am not really heartbroken about it, just disappointed. At the very worst most dealers recommended on this forum always have great deals on new ones, but before I went on that road I was exploring other options. Better idea than bringing whole watch,in as at least they know it is new and won't use their typical punch line "it needs a service"

You must be kidding!!!! Here every watch technician in town won't even look at a replica, let alone touch one. " throw it in the trash can" is the typical response. I bought an MBW from a forum member some years ago, paying big $$$$ and somehow the yoke got out of place - stuck in the winding position. I took it into a reputable watchmaker long before I was able to do it myself. He was hitting it on side if his workbench hoping to put it in line that way until I asked him to stop. He advised me that it was cheaper to return to Chinatown an buy another one for $5. I then bought a sterile dial just to temporarily replace it so that some other watch smith did not discriminate against it and had the problem rectified this way. The other problem is that they always use the same catch phrase even for a new movement "If it is losing time it's because it needs a service" I would have got an eta if I had the right dial, but the dial feet were made for the DG movement and NO I will not muck around repositioning the dial feet and playing with epoxy as I have had short lived solution. That is why I bought a new DG as opposed to ones that were already used, but In my opinion, from each one I have seen, they are utter junk. They are assembled in some unclean slave sweatshop near the south china sea!

Thanks!!! I knew all that. I have a yacht master dial with feet positioning for this movement and have searched without success for a yacht master dial to fit an eta. As for glueing feet in different positions, I have had temporary success unless one has the right tools for the job. For a one off job it defeats the purpose of buying one if these machines unless in the profession of watchmaking. I don't want 100% accuracy for the dg2813, but to adjust as best as possible for a mvt of this quality.

I have just received a NEW movement a few days ago which ran 3 minutes slow per day. I have bought from this place several times without a problem. I have successfully regulated many etas and even old omegas with plenty of patience, but this new DG2813 has been a real let down. I have read plenty of threads on this forum and on others on how they are regulated and overall they have been looked upon as good reliable and accurate workhorses for what they are. I have very slightly moved the regulator arm (with the 2 dots) and after 48 hours it is the same 3 minutes slow per day. I then shifted the arm twice the distance in the same direction but again no change in being slow. Has anyone ever experienced this?? I was thinking if returning it but I did not want to end up with egg on my face n the event that I may be missing something here. Maybe it is dud or perhaps I am expecting too much since I am used to the etas? vey disappointed!!!!!

Hello to all, My bezel fell off my GMT Rolex while. I was fixing a sink tap and caught it it just in time. This model does not have a click spring but a small pin with a fine tip for the click. As I took off the watch to put away to complete my job, I lost the small pin but the spring was still there. Just asking anyone familiar with this setup if the tip of a spring bar would be the same set up as I no longer have it to make comparisons. Thanks in advance!!

Wasn't this sold at Christes as part of Liberace's estate?????

If you look at this youtube video of the person removing the bezel on the steinhart Ocean one which I believe is the model you are referring to You will notice that around frame 1.10 to frame 1.12 just before the vid ends you will see that it is unlikely that there is a crystal retaining ring as the shoulder of the crystal wall mount is at 90 degrees to the top of the watch case. This is consistent with the same setup that some of the seiko divers 200 have which have the crystal just pressed in. However this steinhart model is suppose to be water resistant to 300metres witch also appears to be press fitted only. I recall reading somewhere many drinks ago, that someone had it both dry pressure tested and wet tested and passed !!!! So possibly, the crystal retaining ring is just extra reassurance and not necessarily a must

Thanks millions!!!!!! was just about to buy one as a backup to go with a genuine crystal setup.!!!!!!