Timelord

This must be the 3 rd post in a month with technical issues! Very embarrassing! Have a new 7.0mm crown which does nothing upon turning it in either direction ! Sometimes it just moves the hands a bit but then keeps slipping! i recall reading something on this on another forum years ago! A guy named "Maddox" who seemed very cluey mentioned something about how he repaired them, but I couldn't locate the link? Maybe some of our guys here being good at puttng square pegs into round holes may have some other suggestions! just dissapointed!

and for the better too by the looks of it. At least the case and dial show to be made for an eta movement and obviously whoever had it must have replaced it with a better quality one being From Rado!!! To be honest, I kind of like it as it appears to be more towards the 39mm than the typical 41mm sizes and if the lugs can be shaped down, it looks quite ok.!!! I would buy it for a couple of hundred dollars . That's me -each to their own!!!!

Gentlemen!! a world of thanks for your input and advice! I know these little cogs are very pricey to replace, made worse when I have just spent money on a new movement. I did not expect this!! I have purchased second hand movements for a third of the price that still run flawlessly!! I was beginning to think that the automatic device was faulty at manufacturing. I jam glad that I am still with a chance that I don't need to replace them. Keeping fingers crossed! Thanks again!

Greetings fellow members, I just received a new eta 2836-2 mvt from ebay and never really had a problem from the seller with any previous mvts I intended to build a sea dweller but upon completion, tried to wind it up to get it moving. The rotor kept spinning like crazy. I thought that reverser wheels are either dry or possibly dirty. Stripped the whole automatic assembly, cleaned it all, lubed them and replaced them back in the movement! NO change!! Actually they performed worse as rotor went like a propellor upon manual winding. Has anyone experienced the same problem with new and just cleaned serviced reverser wheels doing this??? I just can't work out what could have gone wrong. Maybe my skills or lack of knowledge!, I am all ears/ eyes for any inut. Thanks!!

Thanks Ceejay! I totally agree with the reliability and accuracy! Mine runs flawlessly and I am even able to wind he mainspring. However the problem is most likely with the quality of material used or perhaps even a quality control issue! Maybe even the luck of the draw!! I followed your advice and yes access to the keyless works is straight forward! Unfortunately, the stem still falls out regardless of repositioning the keyless works. I strongly believe there is something faulty with the setting lever mechanism that does not hold the indent of the stem? I may be wrong! The stem just fell out unexpectedly when I was setting the time and still does not hold!

Thanks for your input! I thought this was a push release stem! It is the first mvt like this that I have come across! By the way it just popped out! I wasn't trying to release stem from movement or work on the movement. It just popped out when resetting the time for daylight saving while wearing it!

Hello fellow members, I have hit a dead end with this issue where I am unable to have the keyless works amended to hold the stem in place into this movement ( Asian movement) I was considering 2 options where: (1) I would replace this movement with something else that is slightly better (BTW it works well and tells good time within acceptable accuracy) or (2) having the keyless works modified as to get the stem to hold in without popping out. The stem goes in and can be used to wind the movement perfectly, but will not stay in or allow me to set the time. The other problem is that there are no identification numbers or symbols which would tell me what the movement is regardless of what options above I would choose I have no idea as to what it is?>? If I recall correctly these movements were quite known for this to happen but never really knew what the solution was. I am all ears or in this case all eyes for any information or advice with how to resolve this problem. It is a good watch which has always attracted attention from those that have a liking for watches that often ask about it. Any advice or help would be much appreciated!!! Many thanks!!!!

Wishing that all your desires and dreams become a reality!! No matter what you celebrate at this time of the year according to your creed and culture; Have a safe, joyful and peaceful time with your loved ones, filled with good health and prosperity!!

Eddie Lee sold good merchandise! The interesting part is that when I removed the movement from the case, it had eta 2836-2 stamped on the base plate but also had Rolex stamped on it also! The rotor was cut inside the plate to resemble the rolex style movement. At the time some debate existed on the other forums, whether such movements were actually eta and I was always under impression that mine was a China made eta because of this, which we now refer to them as clones! Regardless of where it was made, it was a very good piece that was incredibly accurate and very rugged! I never really valued it as I definitely would today, simply because these pieces were so affordable and so readily available especially with the low cost of eta at the time!

excellent!!!! I might trade my genuine for it!!!!

I am not sure if this post should be in the omega section of forum, but it is more of a technical issue! I purchased an Omega speedmaster manual wind from Silik a couple of years ago (OMES019 ). Great watch which is nicely done and a beautifully decorated movement that can be seen easily from the back sapphire crystal. I believe it is slightly smaller than the genuine but still a nice watch!!! I have recently had issues with the stem popping out and will not stay in place for me to wind or to set the time. It keeps time as accurate as any other mechanical watch but I have absolutely no idea what the module is it but I suspect it is an Asian clone of a Lemania of some kind. I am very disappointed as my watchmaker who is ok to deal with regarding replicas told me that it cannot be fixed because of the set up and it is quite common as it was not the first he has seen with this problem.. My question is for anyone that has this type of model, is there a remedy for this apart from replacing the module or is there a better module which I can replace it with and minimize this problem from reoccurring.?????? I am very disappointed as it is a nice timepiece and I really would like to resolve this issue??

I have nothing to offer here in terms of what NOS watches are a good buy as the market on these has almost dried up as more and more horology enthusiasts are waking up on this concept. In the day before the internet and even when the fad was quartz watches and anything electronic that was new and faddish, I had visited old shops that had been around for decades to ask if they had any unsold stock which they wanted to get rid of. Many wanted to coerce me into buying their new items as they would not want to offer me a guarantee on their old stock as by law they had to obey the consumer trade practices act. I managed to buy some old Longines and Omegas which were from the early 1970's era for almost a quarter price of their original price tags but were al bulky and unattractive. My favorite was when I was on an overseas trip and stopped in an old shop in a town outside Rome in Italy back in 1992 and asked if he had any old stock from previous unsold items. He thought I was the American in Paris with an open bank account and pulled out some 20 solid gold watches which were all New old stock with their original tags. These were no ordinary gold watches but Omega Constellations from 1950's, Jaeger LeCoultre and Zeniths. My jaw dropped when he said " you can have them all for just their weight in gold only and the watches come for free as these are all past glories. I was a young graduate from Engineering school and had very little money after this holiday and only had enough change to buy a manual Zenith El sporto

As I'm sure you've probably guessed, I suspect this block was done under pressure from Rolex and others seeking co-operation from the banks to make these transactions as difficult as possible. This is a very interesting and most overlooked topic!!!! We all got to these forums by having a special interest or enjoying a hobby of some kind to be as affordable as possible so that it does not impact anyone's life and also our lives, like debilitating addictions such as fatal substance abuse or heavy gambling. I hope I am not touching anyone too personally here in my latter comments. but I am just trying to illustrate a point, Have we ever considered that the same way we seeked for a forum such as this to fulfil our interest and pleasure, that Rolex has not employed anyone to act as a spy and crack down on what is happening to make life of rwg members more and more difficult????? Has anyone ever thought if any member is acting as a double agent??? I would hope NOT!!!! I guess that such measures to protect this is often very difficult, so we should always exercise extreme caution with how we word and perform such transactions to make them as disguised as possible. I know it sounds very unfair that one has to go through such hardships, but what Rolex does not realize is that most members would already have the genuine or have had the genuine product and at some stage been their patrons. This would also be an advantage for them as it is also giving them free advertising as there are those willing to buy their product regardless of whether they have owned or own a replica !!!!

Yes I saw it too!!! Probably sold out being such hot property!! if I recall correctly it was this model https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/eberhard-scafograf-300-hands-on maybe as Horologist pointed out that it must have been the sale of the century !!! LOL!!! i guess that we should have been quick before this once in a life opportunity came to an end

And,.....,....... What is the attraction??? Especially at that price?? I wished I could sell ice to Eskimos!! Give me the old noobmariner with the traditional eta any-day!!! !

Unfortunately this is one of the many disadvantages of the internet. People can disappear out of ones life for all sorts of valid reasons! Some go out if business, some retire, some even become seriously ill and worse still some even pass away and in this case we have no way of knowing? I myself have lost contact with lovely people I have befriended all over the world from different interests etc. I know some of these are deceased and there would have been nobody outside their contact to inform me? An example was an 87 year old I knew from the lung cancer forum and not receiving news in nearly 15 years gives me one conclusion as our last conversation was a very nice and memorable one!

Great post and very informative to say the least!!!! i had this problem with the SSDV2 modified by Jackjo. All of the seadweller dials I purchased from every source did not work!!!! The dial would sit at an angle which you could slightly see with a loupe and it was very annoying!! I got it to work well but was disgusting to look at!! Such a great replica which I liked more than any other ones before and after it's time, BUT was aesthetically ruined by this dial! There were no case clamp grooves to put in a case clamp and a horror of a watch to work on!!! I have a lot if respect here for so many members that do all sorts of modifications to try and fit square pegs inti round holes and vice versa. Thinking laterally outside the square is pure science art and poetry put together! This is what the majority of mainstream watchmakers would never dare! just one question, what do you mean by wokky??

Sent PM with some questions! Thanks!

A few years ago I bought a submariner from Paul's crazy sale which is one of my favourites - also being my first eta powered aluminium insert sub! I was trying to replace the dial after the crystal seal played up as moisture damaged the dial! I purchased a couple from 2 suppliers and noticed that both did not fit properly as the movement and movement ring did not flush with the stem hole. I was dumbfounded and could not work out what was happening After a process of elimination, I noticed that both new dials measured 29mm to 29.08mm with the digital Vernier caliper. I then re-measured the original dial and measured it on two takes 28.34mm and 28.4mm! Silly me as I had given the size to both suppliers and did not reinforce this! Replacing the old dial fitted together like a breeze and works great! I even tried to size both dials by rotating them on a small drill will slowly sanding off the edges in trying to get them to size where I just couldn't get them centred! I know this was a foolish attempt but I was reaching desperation point I noticed that these suppliers all have stock for the ceramic submariners and maybe he dial is meant to be slightly bigger on the newer model??? Has anyone noticed this as I am now left with 2 damaged dials including my original!

Nonsense ! Without your input like that of others has been a great help to me since all the time I have been here!! Thanks for sharing this! This information is very handy for many and is better than any watch smith school! Thanks also to horologist for posting this thread!! It has been an awesome and informative thread!!

One can understand that from this that they would be interchangeable ?!? if I recall correctly, I had a dial that came off a Longines eta 2824-2 which fitted over a 2836-2 movement and the date wheel lined up perfectly under the date window of the dial, so the datewheels are certainly the same size in external and internal diameters!

Many thanks !! I was fearing that I was going backwards with all this!!

Why does a topic like this always come up whenever I think that I have enough confidence to take such a challenge?? I am again confused ?

Following to an earlier post (and thanks to CeeJay's help and others ) I was able to fix my problem. After putting everything together I just had an issue with keyless works which I am no stranger to as I have safely put them into place without a problem many times! That is with the eta 2826-2 without a date wheel.!! As I have never done it on this same movement with a datewheel, do you only need just remove the cover plate and the date jumper spring or does the calendar driving wheel, intermediate driving wheel etc also have to come out ? Sounds like a silly question, I know! Thanks of any advice!!!!

Thanks!!!! If I were to place a DWO, would it rub against any of the movement parts of the top plate, since the top DAY wheel is not at the same level as the date wheel? Thanks also!!!! If I were to put a DAY wheel from an 2836 onto a 2834, there would be room in that area of the movement to accommodate for it since the original day wheel was above the date wheel ??