Toadtorrent

Great post...great read. It is a nice looking piece. Thanks and thumbs up. Great post...great read. It is a nice looking piece. Thanks and thumbs up.

I use one springbar tool with a small 1 or 2mm forked springbar tip...plus another springbar tool with the pin pusher tip... use the forked end to pop the springbar out of a lug hole on one side with the springbar out, pop the second tool in to plug the hole (or toothpick) so it doesn't pop back in stick in the forked tool on the other side and you're good to go with the toothpick and stuff sticking up and needing to use a small tipped tool preferably with two hands, it's like performing open-heart on a cockroach.

Cider (Mulled-ered)

Scully!!

First time I've seen this done...great idea!!

The problem with QC being asked for is that our dealers here probably have the best QC in the industry. The issue for the most part is, that we as a small subset of buyers really have much higher expectations for QC than others as we know the differences between versions, variations, nuances etc of the watches. I don't think we're going to get better QC than what we have...because you are asking for somebody to examine under a loupe all the details over the right sized flying "B", correct clasp, lume dot filling, etc which I don't think will happen. Nobody else has mentioned it so it might not be that big a priority, but my desires for the rep world, are more movement based: As said above, a better jewelled seconds at 6 A copy of a 2893-2 GMT movement (instead of the cheap clip modded 2836)

Thanks guys...stay tuned...might be able to source one from Somal by Friday...if they can't get it...I'll keep in touch. I LOVE THIS PLACE. The Sense of Community is unbelieveable. If only my level of competence didn't need the helping hands...hah hah...but I'm having a great time.

Thanks Sneed. The problem with trying to manufacture one is that I have no idea what the dimensions should be or how critical things are for a clickspring. I'm a Noob. Common sense would dictate it only has to do with keeping the mainspring from unwinding so it doesn't need to be that critical for a specific tension as long as it fits... Thanks!! I'm going to look for the same thing...PM me if you can on what you bought...I'll see if I can get the same thing.

Thanks for the offer. I have Somal looking for me as they have the stock coming in so I might be in luck there. The funny thing is that I'll be up by H.W. Perrin for the next 2 days...so I should have ordered through them...didn't think of it. I have to read through my book more to learn about fabricating one ...I'm sure it won't be the firt time I lose one. Iwas just nervous about angle, tension, length, etc.

Yup...bad technique...it went flying. Does anybody have one in the US or Canada I can buy?? It's part #430 on the oiling chart...but part # 61.080.00 on the order list... Thanks.

This has been discussed in the past in general. The A7750's by nature are loud...even gens. However, that being said...some are just louder than others. Sometimes servicing can make them silent...other times it can make them "less loud"...but there's no way to guarantee that doing "X" will actually make them as quiet as the quietest examples. The issue from what I understand is QC on various productions runs of the rotor pieces (namely bearings and bearing surfaces). Get a good one, and it will be quiet. Get a loud one, and it won't be. Some have made things quieter adding grease to the rotor...others have said that the rotor bearings according to ETA should only be oiled with Moebius 9010 and that thicker grease will affect the movement performance. It's a rep...you can experiment...or, you can try Francisco's mod of replacing the rotor with a gen ETA part which will be silent...or the ETA bearing and nut assembly if you want to retain a decorated rotor.

Andy Andy Andy...you've been on this forum with Bob how many years and you don't know him? This is Nanuq...he's talking 120 Kelvin...that's summertime in the land of the Big White Bears.

What is that piece of junk??? The rear wheel isn't even straight!! What's the story on this one?

The Suunto's are good...but battery hogs. I just use a basic Timex Ironman...everything you need for any kind of workout including lap timing for timed session work...and bullet proof.

Heh heh...

For less...along those lines...I would actually consider a Zenith El Primero Open rep: It's this one...but it comes on a bracelet.

That is amazing. What a great chance to have National Pride on display in an otherwise self-deprecting country.

I'm not aware of that...but the fix is easy. See how in the link in my signature. I love this one...even with the subdial spacing issue. Can you pop off a clear macro of the crest??? Are there 2 versions of this - gold and silver crest? I've seen the silver crested gen...and it's stunning. Even though the display back is inaccurate because of the movement, I don't care as I think the movement is beautiful. Thanks!!! Love it...great pics.

That was AWESOME. What a nail biter and what a way to finish the Olympics and to finish a crazy series. To see Canadian patriotism actually displayed and in full force was such a warming thing to see. To see my kids cheering away and feeling so excited to be Canadian and singing the National Anthem couldn't help but bring a smile to our faces. Miller was on fire the whole series...and what a way to have a rematch. We were getting so nervous when the US brough the pace up continuously after the first 2 Canadian goals...wow.

Wow...those are beautiful. I love the vintage PAMs and your 1675.

LOVE THIS PIC!!! Fantastic. That looks great. Nice job on the case R!!

the Clarks crystal won't have the AR under the cyclops like the gen will. Concepta had a nicely modded one with gen dial and crystal on it so the gen parts can be made to fit. I don't know if they require modding to fit mind you...but they will go. Good luck on the hunt.

Very nice...and great to see these things stay in the RWG family.

Go CANADA!!!

Wow that's great. How 'bout giving the specs here??