Toadtorrent

Yup...it seems he has a few of them kicking around. The replacement he sent me was also wrong...but he caught it the day after it went in the mail, and resent another one which he said he checked to make sure it was correct, right away. Shipping it back can be cheap and slow (with no tracking) or expensive and fast with tracking. If you go cheap and slow, it means it takes forever for you to get the right watch which stinks, given that you didn't make the mistake. Good luck...I'll update the thread when my watches arrive in a couple weeks.

There is info on the knowledge base on the hand sizes or possibly in the VIP area...can't remember which. I also believe you need longer posts for the running seconds and chrono seconds...The Zigmeister wrote some posts on this.

I thought we had avatars so we didn't have to do this...BTW...I'm the one on the left in red...

The lower cost option to get a solid movement, albeit one without hack, is to substitute directly with a Miyota as per The Zigmeister's response here: The Zigmeister's Movement Replacement for Sub This one: http://www.ofrei.com/shop-bin/sc/productsearch.cgi Julesborel has it for $22.65 So, add in the cost of labour if you need it, and you may be at the point where a new watch is in order. The other option is, buy some tools, and use this as a learning opportunity to try a movement swap yourself.

Beautiful. Thanks for sharing. Fly fishing is definitely something I'll take up one of these days!

Yup...but so much easier for passing links around to friends for amusing snips and quotes. I save my torrents for full show downloads that are for me only.

You got it Lady V!! Also, considering the MSRP on the gen versions of some of the more popular reps, $5K is a cheap watch: Breitling fg and tt Bentleys Rolex TT Submariner IWC Big Pilot HBB (I think the taxes on this watch alone in many countries are more than the full cost of a PO) AND...considering the Bond lifestyle: Aston Martin DBS First Class Trans Atlantic flights Stays in villas at Le Casino Royale in Montenegro ...it's all relative.

Double AR it is then. Ace!! As to the caseback, there are specialized vices on the high end or go to The Bay and search for a tool called a Jaxa: Bay Jaxa Search there are cheap ones...or you can use a big ball of duct tape.

A friend asked me one day how much the watch costs that Bond wears. I said back in the old days, the Sub was the choice and that was about $6K (in today's dollars), then more recently the SMP which could be had for a couple thousand, and finally the PO at about $4-5K. The response? "That's it?? I thought Bond was supposed to wear an expensive watch if he's going into those high class casinos" My reply: "...you have to remember...he's technically a Civil Servant".

Good luck getting anything more than your money back. Trying to get return shipping charges back from any of the "collectors" from most accounts on various threads I've read is next to impossible. Dealer's if they send you junk in error (generally always their fault due to either bad QC in this case) or none due to drop-shipping, don't really offer much or anything in terms of compensation to make up for their errors. This is somewhat standard with mail order in general unfortunately. From my experience, only a small number of mail order vendors (not just rep watches but ANY kind of mail order) offer refunds on the return shipping charges for items being sent back. Add in various shades of global legality on this hobby, and there aren't really many avenues for keeping collector's in check outside of documenting your experiences on forums like RWG. Some forum folks like Lady V may have had better luck with collectors making up errors in terms of offering strap switches, extra straps, parts, etc, but this may be due to such members being high volume clients. Generally, it seems, a transaction is considered succesful if the final requested item as described arrives at all...regardless if you have to pay extra due to return shipping and delays in waiting for your item. Sad...but I think true...YMMV of course...

I'm thinking, if he's wearing jeans and a sweater, with a flat white harness UNDER the sweater, he's still on set...so the PO would be par for the course.

Good first choice!! You won't be able to tell if you have the ETA version without opening the casback and looking for the appropriate engravings on the movement. Even with the caseback off, it might be a bit deceiving as some rotors have branding of the watch on them (i.e. Breitling). As to identifying the AR, if you hold the watch at an angle, and you see a blue reflection hue on the surface of the crystal, that's double AR. Really, if it looks like the crystal "disappears" at certain angles (try looking at the watch straight on)...that's definitely double AR.

Yup...I'm the same. Youtube for Top Gear!! Yup...the PO looks good with the Lambo. Thanks for the post...I also learned something new about feminine protection.

His siggy says he has a Sea Dweller already, so I think he's looking for something different. I was thinking the Sea Dweller as well...

You've been lurking since April...that's longer than Lady V I think...you should have addressed your dilemma, by purchasing at least 60-70 reps by now.

You can try Silix' cheaper site too: Watch Silix Lange's

The HEV valve covers have been hard to find replacements for from what I have read on the forum. Good luck! As to the movement, I know The Zigmeister has said that the A7750 movements (chrono) are generally pretty dry when new, and should be serviced around the 9month mark, after which they should be good for the usual 5 years or so between servicings. This may hold true for the movement on yours. If not properly serviced, the movement may stop.

Hi, Welcome aboard...stick around, take pics, share your experience, and RWG will be a great source of info for you now, and in the future. The Swiss SFSO should beat at 28.8. The Asian SFSO beats at 21.6. The sweep of the second hand should be smooth, but there is a noticeable ticking that is characteristic of the mechanical movement. To see the differences, search around for some video comparisons of the sweeping second hands. I can't seem to find the links right now...sorry. Most people can't tell the difference between the slow and high beat movements except when having the 2 side-by-side for a comparison.

What's QC? Oh...that's a special service you can pay for alongside waterproofing.

The moral of the story is, if you have any of these, when you sell it on Fleabay...make sure your reserve price is at least $150 USD (or $100 CDN)... I am in utter awe at the knowledge here. As a noob, I would ask from folks like Nanuq the Master of Mushers to think out loud more on what they are doing to make their attributions so I can figure out what you guys are looking at.

You got it...to answer: Ok...wouldn't be surprised...yup...yup...yup...and YUP!! Mind you...for modding...starting with ETA movements may mean better compatibility with gen parts than with asian movements.

You're asking a few questions here. "Closest out of the box?" For a Rollie...likely. "any other dealers have the same rep?" I'll find out soon. People swear by TTK's. Josh can get the same case serial on his Beginmariner which "should" have all the key features of TTK's...and Andrew uses the same case serial on both his newbie mariner as well as his regular subs. Whether or not they are actually the same is a different issue. I'm waiting for the second delivery from Josh on my Beginmariner...his first one stunk as outlined here: Toad's Begin vs. Noob Guide Where to get a good GMT? See By-Tor's GMT Guide Functional? By-Tor's guide talks about the problems with the GMT hand on the various versions that have the correct and incorrect hand stack. Personally, I like the look of the GMT arm, but I don't like the 24hr markers on the bezel insert. I like the markers on the Sub bezel insert more...that's a personal taste thing. Happy shopping.

I believe you have to replace the case tube. Somebody like The Zigmeister will be able to confirm this. As a note...a trick I learned from the The Zigmeister-meister that works great on any piece with a screw-down crown is, instead of just pushing the crown in and screwing away...FIRST, push it in and turn it slowly, COUNTER-clockwise (as in unscrewing it) until you feel/hear a "click". Only after you feel/hear the "click" do you push the crown in and start screwing the crown in clockwise. You will find at this point, that the crown screws in right away. The click happens when the start points for the threads on the crown and tube are lined up. Screwing the crown in only when the threads are lined up properly like this will prevent the stripping.

Couldn't wait? Why...it's coming in just 2 weeks...

I quote: In that case...skip the watch...grab some Rogaine...a Suzanne Summer's Thighmaster and a Richard Simmon's Sweatin' to the Oldie's video (yup...video...we're talking mechanical watches here...no digital DVD crap here)