Toadtorrent

Gumby

I wasn't too sure about some of the UNs because they seem to be a little "fashion forward" and lacking the traditional classic-ness to keep things interesting in the long term. BUT, I have to say, when I saw the 45mm MMD gen with the silver dial in the AD window, it really stood out as something special. There's a sheen to it and dimension that give the watch real interest. The black one posted here is quite something as well.

Slammer

I think that looks really tacky.

Kalamazoo

Bradbury (Ray)

The Platinum area has some...ummm...Special sections.

The aim of RWG is to try and save you hassle and grief by providing a huge amount of experience in the topic posts. It's true that trusted dealers have to start somewhere...but my theory is, let it be on someone else's dime. If you want to help build someone's reputation by being the product of their learning experience...I salute you...but when dealing with semi-legal (depending on the country) products being imported from China, I would rather not waste my money. That's why I tell you that if you can't readily find lots of posts supporting or speaking against the site, people on this forum have minimal experience with it. Proceed with caution, or be a guinea pig. The dealers in the recommended dealer list offer a reputation that has been tested by the membership as a whole (each will have individual complaints...but as a WHOLE) that stands up. The dealers in the Links session include the recommended dealers as well as those that others have used with success that may or not be on the RWG recommended list. The links in my Noob Guide include links to the scam list which may or may not include dealers you are interested in. If you're looking at reps...start with the dealers on at least one of the lists on the site.

Dead Kenndy's

Oren, you don't measure the case diameter or the thickness to determine strap size. You need to measure the distance between the inside of the lughorns where the existing strap/bracelet attaches. Usual widths are 24/22/10/18mm. You also need to know if you are trying to use a particular buckle or clasp as the other end taper needs to be the same width. e.g. PAM straps can either be 24/24mm (meaning no taper) or 24/22mm (there are other variants but these are the most common) e.g. IWC straps are often 21/18mm 2mm taper is usual...but you need to measure both. OH...you'll also need to know whether to get a standard length or short or long strap depending on your wrist circumference.

Alternative (as in Indie music)

Pilgrimage

Welcome to RWG. If you can't find info using Search on the sites you're interested...the membership as a whole has little or no experience with them. Save yourself the hassle...read the Noob Guide linked in my signature and look at the trade reviews on this site to find a dealer worth buying from.

Ben Kingsley

Where are you located?

Can't help you beyond this...maybe somebody with watchmaking experience can chime in.

Pussy Galore

At least you're getting it to the time setting position...play around with it for a bit...don't force anything, you might not have it in the right position quite yet. I'm no watchsmit...so hopefully some of the more experienced folks can chime in and answer this with better technological understanding than I!!

I think usually around $4,000 with boxes and new condition...as low as about $2,600 without boxes. It's a good deal...but not a deal of a lifetime I don't think.

Look at the SW200 stamping...it's the Sellita SW 200...which is a clone of the 2824-2...HAH HAH...a Swiss clone of the Swiss movement. Oy...will wonders never cease. When you first insert the stem, you need to turn slowly as you start pushing it in. You should feel some parts start to engage when the stem gets properly aligned with the gears of the works. When you feel contact/engaging, that's when you push in a little more and turn. If you push in and turn before the stem is engaged in the gears, you'll just reach the thread matching between crown and tube and screw the crown on...you need to engage the stem with the gears.

Pressing the stem release button may reset the keyless works if it was just jiggled out...otherwise, you have to dive into the thing. Where are you located?

Naaah...Richemont will just buy out Panerai and all will be well.

Lois Lane...prrrrr...

It looks like a Selita SW200 movement. It's essentially an ETA 2824. If the keyless works aren't botched, you should just be able to reinsert it, turning slowly while pressing in the stem in a tightening (clockwise) direction. With an A7750 movement, you have to press the stem release button while you reinsert the stem, but you shouldn't have to on the SW 200. From HERE: "...quite the contrary. imho the 2824 has possibly the pickiest keyless works i have ever dealt with. anytime a movement is giving me an issue with stem re-insertion I usually try this: Try pressing down on the stem release button when re-inserting it all while giving the stem an every so gentle twist. This usually helps you realign the stem with the sliding pinion. hope that helps" ...this is not likely the proper way, as from what I understand, the Sellita does not have the stem release button pressed on re-insertion. Any watchmaker should be able to reinsert it for you...it's a Swiss movement...so no worry about them needing to be rep-friendly...just tell them you have a Sellita SW 200 that needs a stem reinsertion if you have to do it. You can go to SELLITA for technical info on the movement. Good luck.

Kryptonite