Logan

The build quality on this one is really first rate, one of the best rep so far in terms of build. The titanium also has something different, Its definitely Ti from the weight but mine is quite silver, not as grey as pure Ti, I suspect they have used a Ti alloy like 6al-4v or similar. I compared the colour to some high grade bolts made from 6al-4v ti alloy and it is a perfect match. Anyone have any thoughts on this? It sure doesn't have that same grey colour like any other Ti watch I have (gen or rep)

Love the look of that Safari on rubber Hike, might have to add one of those to the collection one day..

The UPO and Genuine use a 2mm thread, thats pretty damm small given the amount of torque you can apply with the crown. This tube design dates back to the quartz Omega's and Tag's from the early 90's. On a quartz design its less of an issue as most owners only use the crown every year or so when the battery is replaced or if traveling. With automatics and especially ones in collections you're using the crowns far more often.

I have a couple of these and both have issues. I'm in the process of stripping and applying the graphite treatment. Unless you able to do that I'd have to say stay away from these.

This is speculation.. but if I were guessing I'd say Rocketeer has damaged the chief coating on some crystals due to poor installation technique, and has had them recoated locally..

The significant difference with the cartel "ultimate" is the case construction. The older reps all had a one piece case with no real pressure ring, it was all just moulded into the case. The Ultimate has the pressure ring as a true separate part.

Actually I found heaps or torrents of this show, does anyone know the current season number and the relevant episode number?

If anyone is a torrent expert please upload this for the benefit of us outside the US, and I guess anyone who doesn't get Discovery. Much appreciated.

Great to hear you guys like this one, I spent ages getting the parts for this together, it was tough to let it go but great to trade with a decent guy like Redwatch. The clasp on this is actually from an SMP Chrono, modified for the pin bracelet. Its well worth tracking one down if anyones building an SMP, its much better made and has really nice engraving.

I find PVA wood glue works very well, Its gap filling, slow drying and can be diluted with water making it very thin. Its also very easy to clean up if you make an error. If you use it carefully its fairly easy to remove the hands later if needed. It can also be softened later with water if needed.

The cartel dealers (Pure, Josh and TT) have a deep sea with the correct case construction.. ie it has the pressure ring separate from the rest of the case, etc. Its looks pretty good and is definitly a step up in accuracy compared to these others which all have a simplified case. I don't know of anyone here has reviewed this model though. It seems to have gone under the radar a bit.

As I understand it the only difference is the extra jewels which I think are all in the chronograph mechanism. Otherwise they are both parts compatible. The extra jewels won't really make any difference unless you run the chrono all the time.

Nice work so far, its the best way to learn trust me. (well at least the most fun..) A 7750 swap does come with some issues, eg does the stem line up, and are the dial holes correct for the movement. You can of course get genuine Omega dials and hands from Ofrei's but I'm not sure if the case you have is worth that. If the case is the same as the 7750 based rep then it might all fit together..

So far all the reps look far to gold (figures since they are gold plated) and not really close to the cermet material used on the real one which is more of a bronze colour. I wonder if there is a PVD or DLC type coating which would be closer? Didn't someone get some Panerai coated in a bronze finish a while back?

@toadtorrent The movement is too thin.. thats why he's cut the whole case down using the lathe. Its not a solution for the non technically minded to say the least!!

Excellent work. Looks great.

Great work, I love seeing long term projects like this come together.

Its almost certainly dirt inside the movement somewhere. It only takes the tiniest spec to jamb a cog. Its probably best not to force the movement past this. What feels gentle to you could be doing damage inside.

Its only a little larger, so I guess you could deliberately make a sloppy thread (hand hold both parts, wriggle the tap a bit while turning) Someone ages back shrunk the tube with nitrogen but thats a bit extreme.. and risky to you and the watch. Another option is to drill the case, and glue the tube in place with JB Weld or similar. This is actually the most waterproof as you'll struggle to get the threads and o-ring seat accurate enough to take serious pressure.

Its definitely a custom size tap, you can't buy one trust me. Its only about .08mm larger then the standard size so definitly not a 3.5mm. Remember these tubes are only used by Rolex to fit old case's with worn or damaged threads. I guess busted tubes account for a fair proportion of these. I have both the ponycar tube and the regular thread type here so the measurements are taken direct from them.

If you do a search for "ponycar" you should find the old posts on this topic. Ponycar was the ebay dealer who sold these tubes a few years back. From memory the standard thread is a 3mm x 3.5 standard metric thread and measures 2.96mm on the tube itself. The over size is a custom thread and measures 3.04mm on the tube.

Yes there are two distinct sizes of thread. I do have one or two of these tubes still.

PLEASE.. BUY HIM A DIVE COMPUTER.. Seriously you'll be doing him a huge favor and massively increasing his dive safety if you buy him a proper dive computer watch (or an air integrateed if you prefer). The increase in safety these give is huge compared to tables... and trust me he'll love it too. There are plenty of Suunto's, Oceanic's and other brands for very reasonable cost. A lot of dive schools and boat operators require them down in this part of the world due to the safety. It also means you won't have to rely on dodgy rental computers of unknown accuracy or history.

I used to use a similar product many year back on RC racing cars, model shops might still sell it. It came as a brush on so might be a bit easier. Fantastic product for the right purpose. I'm a bit concerned about the amount you're got.. it looks like you might get some residue making its way around inside the watch in time.. but thats only a guess. I'll be keen to hear the long term results.

One things thats inconstant with these reps is the case material.. some sites say titanium (like the genuine) and some say steel. Has anyone actually brought one of these?