Jump to content
When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

sander

Member
  • Posts

    805
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About sander

Previous Fields

  • Country
    Netherlands

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

6,471 profile views

sander's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/15)

3

Reputation

  1. http://apbands.com/shop/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ROO-SCREWS&Category_Code=BARCAP&Product_Count=2 Here you go!
  2. If you use a steel bezel and put a set of Safari hands on it, it could be a nice one of a kind. Or you can buy a white tachy from me
  3. Very nice combo. I noticed that the bezel screws have not the same hight. The ones at 10, 2 and 4 are lower than the rest. For me this is always a big tell. You can solve this by putting some small dial washers under it to raise them. You probably can also use some aluminum foil.
  4. Good job man! I Love the way you pay attention to all the little details. Crown next?
  5. The crown position on a 7750 movement is in line with the chrono pushers. On a 2892 movement with DD module, the crown is placed lower than the pushers. In order to make it work, you have to lower the movement or make extensions for the pushers.
  6. Nice build man! I have the same It's also very nice with a bracelet! much better than I expected. The problem with lowering the movement is the cap between the tachy and the crystal. The biggest issue is that the crystal is pressed inn, from from the inside of the bezel instead of from the outside. So normaly the crystal is hold in place by the tachyring. In this case (with the cap), the crystal is only hold by a very very thin edge of the bezel (this edge is like 0,5mm). if you push the crystal with your thumps, you can probably push it in. So for water resistance it's not the best construction. I have solved this by lowering the movement not as far as yours. Also I have shaved the gasket between the bezel and case a little. You will not see this but it's enough to keep the crystal in place. I would do one other mod if I were you http://www.rwg.cc/topic/137108-how-to-mod-your-ap-pusher/page__hl__%2Bpusher+%2Bsander Ciao, Sander
  7. The easiest way is to make it and hand wound model. I personally prefer that. I think the watch looks way better and I don't care to wind it every morning. Since I wear a different watch every day, I have to wind them anyhow Just remove all the winding gears and you have plenty of room. Also it will wind very smooth. If you want to keep it an automatic, you can shave the inside of the case back. Be careful, it's not really thick because of the engraving. Together with a lower rotor I managed to make it work 2 times. It's very tricky though but it can be done. And yes, not all the rotors have the same thickness.
  8. I have the H from Andrew and the 2 biggest problems for me are the Cyclops which is not in the middle of the date window and the poorly aligned pin that holds the roller ball of the GC. For the rest I'm pretty happy with it. The finish is great and the bezel feels realy good..smooth but firm. If the Noob one has a better crystal and GC, I might get that one as well for these 2 part only
×
×
  • Create New...
Please Sign In or Sign Up