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Hi folks, I've tried the search function, but had no joy.. Basically, I just need to know what the correct case back gasket (the black rubber one on the fake titanium piece, not the white plastic one) is for my noob v7 DSSD (dimensions or part number.) I'm looking to do a little modding - I'm planning on fitting a gen ETA 2836-2, fully align the rehaut and try to get it water tight enough for the pool etc. When I took the back off the watch, you can see it's been 'pinched' when the case back was fitted, so it's got a flat spot.. plus, it's probably about three years old now anyway. I can find the gasket part number for almost every other Rolex/Sub online, but Google-Fu finds nothing for the DSSD. Thanks!

Hello to all again! I haven't spent a lot of time on these forums in years, as I've simply been satisfied with my old 116520 & V? DSSD. Anyway, I'm looking for help from some of the more knowledgeable current members--I'd like to update my DSSD and after doing a little homework have narrowed it down to either the V6s or the V7 (looking between these two): V6S: https://www.intime02.co/rollie/2650-sea-dweller-deepsea-116660-black-ceramic-v6s-1-1-noob-best-edition-sa3135.html V7: https://www.intime02.co/rollie/2950-sea-dweller-deepsea-116660-black-v7-1-1-noob-best-edition-a2836.html From the pics & description I see I'm kind of leaning towards the V6s. After doing a few different searches I still haven't found a proper comparison here between the two to say: is the V7 really better than the V6s and if so for what reasons? And is the SA3135 really any worse in reliability than the 2836 or is that just outdated information? Secondly, I have the old JF Daytona 116520 in white but am wondering if it's worth the upgrade to the new ARF w/ the (supposedly) 904L construction? I like the fact that unlike the JF the ARF 904L has a working stop-watch hand. My question is: is this new movement just another ticking timebomb like the old 7750 or is it as reliable for daily wear as the JF? And since the case is 1.5mm thicker is there a thinner caseback available or can I make it thinner by just using my old JF caseback and removing the rotor? Maybe I should just buy a 904L bracelet for my JF and call it a day. ARF: https://www.intime02.co/rollie/4110-daytona-116520-arf-1-1-best-edition-904l-ss-case-and-bracelet-white-dial-a4130-super-clone.html Any help to these questions would be greatly appreciated. Good talking & thanks for your help.

Hi everyone, I'm new to the forum and to the hobby and I want to get your opinion on this cheap dssd noob v6.1 being sold by trusty time. http://trustytime.store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_8&products_id=12305

So, I've just received my QC photos of the DSSD D-Blue I've ordered.. as far as I can tell from the pics (as they're pretty low res!) it looks good; pearl centred, rehaut engraving looks correct and pretty well aligned.. however I can't really tell if the hour markers are single or double. Obviously I'd much prefer the single markers.. anyone else see anything 'deal breaking' on this one please? I'm pretty new to the Rolex rep game! @Jasonc0151, as this looks identical to yours, I take it that your actual watch came with the single markers?

So i finally had the B...s to open the backcase of my DSSD blue (xx Version, still have to find out wich one is), so for my surprise after a lot of reading about movement i came across to the one (i hope only one) that I haven't seen as a newby that i am. i would kindly appreciate if someone can help me identify it... Bellow some pics, i hope they are clear enough. Thank you in advance.

Hello guys im new here and i need some advise or the opinion from you experts out there. I bought a DSSD Blue from a Guy that sells Rep's here in my country and for obvious reasons he wont tell me who or from where he bought it, all i want to know if it is a good rep, older version, piece of crap or if there is anything i can do to make it better. I have never seen the real one in person so i dont even want to use it because im blind here. Below are some pics of the what from different angles and a couple of it side by side of a Gen GMT Batman i own for you guys to compare the loome. Thank you in advance for your help and sorry for the bad pictures.

Hi guys! Today I’ll be reviewing the Rolex Deep Sea Sea Dweller (DSSD) Ultimate. I want to preface this review by saying that this is my first review on this forum. I’m a relative newbie when it comes to reps, but I have been a lover of fine watches for many many years. Being new to this there may be things I fail to cover or simply do not know, so please don’t hesitate to ask me other questions. And I am always open to suggestions on how to make my reviews better and more valuable to others. Background: I am not a Rolex enthusiast. In fact, I don’t care for the looks of most models of Rolex watches. There are a very few of them that I like, but the DSSD is certainly one of them. I love the look of this watch. It’s hard to pick out exactly what it is that makes me like this model when I do not like most Rolex watches. The ceramic bezel, the caseback, the rehaut and the face are some of the things I like most about it. I have never seen the gen of this watch in person, so my only comparison to the real thing is through photos and YouTube videos. The Dealer: I purchased this watch from Andrew at Trusty Time. He has been outstanding to work with and I plan on leaving a thorough review of my experience with him on his section of this forum later today. Please check it out if you plan to purchase from him. Here is the link to the watch I purchased: http://www.yourtrust...roducts_id=6579 This is the detailed description of the watch copied from the website: ROLSD017 - Deep Sea Dweller SS Blk Asia 3135 Ult V The Ultimate Version of DeepSea ...Same Deep rehaut as Genuine. Crisp Engraving within Lugs, Excellent Pearl and Lume on Dial... Correct 10 on bezel.....Updated Bevelled Edge Date Window....Parts interchangeable (Except Dial and Movt) interchangeable with the Genuine. Made with a Genuine watch as Sample... MOVEMENT: Swiss Eta 2836-2 Movt CASE DIAMETER: 43mm THICKNESS: 17.5mm DIAL COLOR: Black Dial, White Dot Markers, Blue Lume on hour markers and needles and Bezel Pearl. CASE MATERIAL: Solid 316F Stainless Steel BRACELET: SS Oyster Brushed Bracelet with New Design Divers Extension FRONT GLASS: Dome Sapphire crystal BACK GLASS: Solid case back with Titanium Seal, 2 piece case back BEZEL: Full Ceramic Bezel With sandwich numeral insert (modded to Correct "10", bezel RLACC01001, maintaining the Ultimate V's Pearl). Unidirectional rotating Bezel. HACK MOVEMENT: Yes CLASP TYPE: Flip Lock DATE INDICATOR: At 3:00 position (set via crown, beveled edge date window) OTHER REMARKS: Close 6 and 9, one-piece screw down crown with o-ring with thick crown tube (same size as genuine). M Serial numbers and model numbers between lug and rehaut. Waterproof from factory to 5 atm...50m Ordering/Shipping: I ordered this watch (along with a Panerai reviewed elsewhere) on Jan 13th through Andrew’s website. I received a confirmation email immediately. I received QC photos on Jan 15th. The watch arrived on Jan 28th but it had spent a full 5 days in the possession of customs at JFK, so taking out that delay the order-to-receipt time was 10 days which I consider to be excellent processing time from China to the US. The watches came well packaged. Each had a rubber bezel/case guard, was wrapped in thin plastic sheet, then folded up in a lot of bubble wrap and placed inside a thick Styrofoam box. The Styrofoam box was shipped in a standard cardboard box. You could drop this package off a 10 story building and the watches would be fine. First Impression: Talking the watch out, I carefully cut away the plastic film and removed the rubber bezel guard. I was amazed at how nice this watch looked in my hand. The quality of the appearance, and the fit-and-finish of this watch was way better than website photos or QC pictures could represent. This is a beautiful watch. I find myself sitting there like an idiot just staring at it. The watch is heavy and has a very solid feel to it, which I like very much. The top of the case and bracelet are brushed while the sides are polished. This contrast gives it a nice, quality appearance. The ceramic bezel is gorgeous. It is very shiny and the numbers and hash marks are crisp and clean. The case back is awesome and is one of the reasons I bought this watch. I thought that maybe the titanium alloy back would look cheesy in person, but I was wrong. It looks very cool. The band also looks very good. All of the links swivel nice and freely without having a loose feel to them. The Solid End Links (SEL) fit nicely into the case. The clasp works well and is easy to operate and adjust, but this is the first place I noticed a slight lack in quality. More on that later. Here's some photos: Further Investigation: The Crown - The first rep I purchased had a serious issue with the crown and the stem not engaging the movement correctly, so I had to send it back. So the first thing I did was to pull the crown out and test it. The crown unscrewed from the case very smoothly, and had a very solid feel. The crown pulled out nicely and had a nice tactile “click” at each position. Manually winding the watch (in the first position) is smooth with a nice resistance to it. Setting the date (with the second position) was also very nice with each day clicking by with a little snap at each change. The hands also operate very smoothly and without any slop when adjusting the time (at the third position). The Rolex Crown emblem (I think there’s another name for this, but I can’t think of it) looks good on the tip of the crown, and the grooves around the side of the crown are crisp and nicely machined. The Bezel - I then checked the operation of the bezel. It turns nicely without the very stiff resistance I’ve felt on other bezels. Not too tight, but not too loose. The clicking sound as you turn the bezel is also nice. I know it sounds strange, but I’ve turned some bezels and the clicking sounds hollow and tinny which gives an impression of cheapness. This bezel does not have that. The ceramic on the bezel is a deep polished black with a very high-gloss shine to it. I was concerned about the numbers on the bezel looking sloppy on the edges where the white meets the black, but with the naked eye, they are razor sharp. I’ve noticed that some pictures that are blown up very close will show some very slight irregularities, but this cannot be seen with the naked eye. The pearl also looks well constructed. It is perfectly centered in the triangle at the top of the bezel. It is raised with a tiny steel tube and filled with the lume. The top of the lume is rounded and polished and despite its tiny size, looks well made. The grooves around the outside of the bezel are also very nice. I will admit that this is one area I can tell the different between the rep and the gen. The gen’s grooves seem to be more precisely machined with sharper edges. However, in person they are so small that I think it would be very difficult to tell the difference without a loupe. With a high-res photo comparison, this will be one of the parts in which you can see a difference. The Case Back – Like I’ve mentioned, this is one of the things I really like about this watch. The dark titanium alloy back is held to the case with a stainless steel ring. It has a unique look that I’ve not seen on any other watch. The ring has engravings along the edge with “ROLEX OYSTER DEEPSEA – SEA-DWELLER 12800 ft = 3900m” written on it. The engraving is relatively deep and black in color. I don’t know how accurate the font is to the gen but it is crisp and spaced evenly between the edges. The grooves around the bottom edge of the ring are sharp and look well machined. The Bracelet – Like I mentioned earlier, the bracelet is brushed on the top and bottom and polished along the edges. It has nice quality feel to it. There are small screws holding the removable links vice pins, which made sizing the bracelet very easy. I was very careful in removing the pins because I didn’t know what the quality would be like. But when they were out I took a good look at them and they appeared to be solid and well made. The bracelet on the wrist is very comfortable and did not pluck the hairs off my arm like so many other watches do. The Clasp – The clasp on the DSSD is very cool. It folds down on itself and secures with an authoritative snap. Then a smaller clasp folds over the edge of that one to hold everything secure. On mine, this second clasp has a slight defect as can be seen in the photo. The top right arm of the clasp is bent slightly outward and leaves a small gap from the edge of the larger clasp. I think that I could probably wrap it in cloth and tap it lightly back in place with a hammer, but right now it doesn’t bother me very much. I also don’t want to risk damaging it so that it doesn’t work. If anyone has had experience with anything like this before, I’d appreciate your advice! This clasp has a very cool “Glidelock” feature where you pull out the top of the clasp and pull the end of the bracelet in and out for fine adjustment by 1.8mm lengths. Pushing it back down engages teeth in the clasp that holds everything steady. It works very well. It is designed for divers to quickly adjust to the thickness of a wetsuit sleeve, but it also works extremely well to fine tune the precise fit of the bracelet. The very edges of this “glidelock” clasp are not machined very precisely and have a sloppy edge to it. This would be extremely hard for anyone who is not specifically looking for it to notice. The fold out parts of the clasp is probably the one area of this rep that I think could be improved. The build quality is fine, but the printing of the Rolex emblem looks very cheap. You can judge for yourself in the photos. This concerns me very little because the only way anyone would ever see them is if I removed the watch and handed it to someone to inspect. Even then, I’m not sure it’s bad enough to immediately draw attention to it. The Crystal – The crystal looks beautiful. It is not as “domed” as I had anticipated, but it is slightly domed when looking at it from the side. Visually, the crystal sits perfectly. However, if you run your finger around the edge of the crystal (where it meets the bezel) it is not seated exactly flush. I had heard that this was common with this rep, so I was looking for it. Had I not read about it, I may have never noticed. I think that this might be able to be fixed with a case press, but that’s just a guess. Anyone else who’d like to chime in on this, please do. I may try to fix it in the future but as it is now, no one would ever notice this in a million years. Before I received this watch there was some question of whether the rep or the gen had the small “Rolex Crown” etching on the crystal. Well I’m here to clear that up. They both do. It is very, very difficult to see with the naked eye, but if you hold a powerful flashlight at the right angle, it’s there. I managed to catch it in one of the photos. It’s hard to see, but when you can see it, it looks well done. The Face – The face of this watch is gorgeous. It’s very simple which I like. I’m no expert, but everything looks nicely aligned and positioned. I cannot speak to the accuracy of the fonts, but the quality is excellent. Everything is crisp and clear. The lume has a nice blue color when freshly charged, but is not very bright. There are really three levels of brightness on the lume of this watch. The brightest is the hour markers, then the hands, then the pearl. I charged the lume with an extremely powerful aviation flashlight (185 lumens) for 30 seconds. The hour markers were adequately bright and the hands were also adequate but noticeably dimmer than the hour marker. The pearl was barely lit at all. If you wanted to mod this watch, I would say the lume is the first place to start. However for me, it’s not that much of an issue. I will probably leave it as is for some time. The lume also dims down to nothing within about 30 mins. My attempt at the lume shot (I need to get better at these!) The Fit – I have exactly a 7” wrist. I’m not sure how that fits in to the world-wide average, but I feel my wrist is average to slightly below average. The watch looks very well proportioned on the wrist to me. Unlike some of the larger watches such as U-Boat and Panerai, I would imagine that just about anyone could wear this watch without it looking too big in diameter. I will say that the watch is fairly thick and if anything, the watch sits up high off your wrist. But it’s no show stopper. You’d have to be analyzing it to notice this fact. Conclusion: I spent $408USD on this watch. Considering the gen costs more than $10,000USD I’d say I hit a gold mine! I’ve heard that Rolex watches are among the most widely (and cheaply) repped watches around. Even people with gen watches are constantly asked if their watch is real. However, this watch screams quality. I think just about anyone who wasn’t a Rolex enthusiast or AD who took a close look at this watch would have to determine it was real. The watch is absolutely beautiful. The things about it that are not accurate are so minor that they almost don’t warrant notice. I am very happy with this purchase, and very happy with my experience so far with Andrew at Trusty Time (www.yourtrustytime.com). Again, if there’s anything in my review that wasn’t clear or if you have any additional questions I can answer, don’t hesitate to ask. I hope you've all found this review informative and helpful!

Hey guys, I got this from a m2m sale on a different forum and need help with what type of movement is in this little guy. The previous own only knew that it was "Noob best edition 2014" and the original price was $378. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm terrible when it comes to identifying movements.

Hello everyone! As promised, here’s my DSSD Gen Bezel mod. I guess you can say that I fell into this one. I was looking for a gen dial after reading PeteM’s post on the differences in Rolex gen dials for the DSSD. So when one came up for sale on the boards, I couldn’t help but jump on it! That same member was also selling a gen bezel with gen insert. Well, after a little salesmanship and negotiating by the Sacsah1, I had a gen bezel assembly with gen bearings and click. Very exciting! Now came the research. I had reached out to PeteM, BK, and the member that sold me the dial and bezel, Sacsah1. Pete built an incredible franken DSSD from gen parts that he stumbled upon, so I picked his brain a bit. To no surprise, Pete being Pete, shared a wealth of info on his journey to building the ultimate DSSD Franken. But most of what he did also included a lot of machining parts and mid-case. He did all the work on his own. Being the son of a Tool & Die Maker trained in Germany, I was not without some skills and more importantly… tools! Sacsah1, as I learned is a great connection to the gen parts world! He also had a lot of insight into what you can do and what you can’t do. He has worked with a few of this forum’s best modders on his own pieces and was a wealth of info for me as well. What I learned is that this mod of fitting a gen bezel on a Noob DSSD case was a problem that has frustrated some modders. BK provided guidance from what he learned that works with the Noob case and what needs modding. Here’s what I learned. First, how the gen is broken down. The clamping ring is the part that would need to be modified, as it was larger on the Noob than the gen. The bezel would not snap down on it. CAUTION: By trying to force the bezel on, I nearly destroyed the fastening ring. The fastening ring is a nylon ring that sits inside of a groove in the bezel. I was able to repair it so that it was functional. But it’s damaged. Some of it was flattened and nearly torn. Thanks to Sacsah1, I have a new one on its way! The Noob DSSD is actually pretty amazing! They built it part by part to the gen. Not necessarily to spec, but really close. When chatting with Pete, he mentioned that he had some extra parts and a double AR’d crystal. I purchased the crystal from him without hesitation and he offered to send me all his extra parts for just shipping cost. A truly noteworthy member of this community! In order for the bezel to fit, I had to machine down the outside of the clamping ring to a point where the center groove is cut. So it’s practically smooth all the way down. I could still make out where the groove was cut. I checked my progress every now and then by putting the clamping ring into the bezel (without the fastening ring installed) until it rotated smoothly inside the bezel. I used a sharp tipped Jewelers file to hand cut a new groove into the clamping ring. I later learned that I cut that groove about 0.75mm too high, leaving a gap between the bezel and the mid-case. I ended up machining down the height of the ring by 0.75 mm. By machining the clamping ring down, the rep bezel would no longer fit. I got a bit nervous that if this didn’t work, I’d be up the creek. I reached out to BK who had an extra clamping ring in his toolbox and sent it to me for the cost of postage. With a plan B, I felt comfortable to push this forward. Clamping ring before: After machining: Bezel gap before: After: To say that I was a bit anxious when it came to putting it back together would be an understatement. I did realize that that by machining the ring down, I did stretch the diameter a bit. I decided to heat the ring up to a red glow and quickly cooling it down. That did the trick and it was back down to its original inner diameter. I found some pics of a gen mid-case of a DSSD and saw a machining pattern on the case under where the bezel sits. I decided to cut the same pattern into my Noob mid-case as well. I also sealed up the HEV with clear Jeweler Epoxy while in there. When I had everything apart; I ultrasonically cleaned all the parts and rebrushed and polished the case and bracelet. I used Bergeon medium and fine Satin Bars to achieve that Rolex look. It came time to reassemble the case and see if this whole endeavor worked. I carefully reinstalled the fastening ring into the bezel and made sure that all the pinched areas were deep in its setting and placed the bezel over the clamping ring, and it snapped into place! HOLY CRAP! THIS WORKED! It rotated smoothly and had that perfect click! In order to have the top of the crystal sitting evenly with the bezel, I pressed the crystal in place with the bezel already on. There it is! Gen bezel and insert on a Noob case! So, This DSSD has the following: Gen Bezel and insert Get click and bearings Gen Dial Double AR Crystal I have to say that the AR’d crystal makes this whole thing pop. The gen uses a very high quality crystal that almost looks AR’d. Pete compared it to his buddy’s gen and the rep looked better. Not by much, but better. With this crystal, the dial and bezel really pop! I want to give a shout out to those that helped make this mod possible! Thanks to Sacsah1, PeteM, and BK! Thanks for reading! P

Hi Guys! Super excited. Bought this replica Rolex Deep Sea. It's a beautiful thing. Got it yesterday. Apologies for the picture quality - in need I can upload better quality pictures. The movement works fine. However with the caseback on the watch lasts for about an hour then stops. I left the case back off last night and when I woke up the watch was still ticking. Put the caseback on, hand wound it about 15 to 20 times and sure enough stopped and hour later. Took the caseback off again and it's been running no problem the whole day. I can only assume that the caseback is somehow interfering with the movement. Any ideas? As an aside can the buffs here tell me what movement this is? Thanks for your help Attached Images

Hi Guys! Super excited. Bought this replica Rolex Deep Sea. It's a beautiful thing. Got it yesterday. Apologies for the picture quality - in need I can upload better quality pictures. The movement works fine. However with the caseback on the watch lasts for about an hour then stops. I left the case back off last night and when I woke up the watch was still ticking. Put the caseback on, hand wound it about 15 to 20 times and sure enough stopped and hour later. Took the caseback off again and it's been running no problem the whole day. I can only assume that the caseback is somehow interfering with the movement. Any ideas? As an aside can the buffs here tell me what movement this is? Thanks for your help

...just yikes http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Black-Blue-Deepsea-Dial-Rolex-Sea-Dweller-/231340764188?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0 *Gratuatious use of emoticons welcome

Hi all, So I did my research and opted to dive in and grab myself a 2014 Noob DSSD. I opted for a well known TD, I'm sure you'll know who from the pics. But I'm not too keen on the quality of the strap/bracelet. I guess my question is, am I being too picky here? Or should I reject? what do others DSSDs look like in these areas?. Oh and the face and body look great so just the strap/bracelet that concerns me. The TD has said this is the last one and I can have a refund if I'd like so.....

I found this Forum a few months back, and have really enjoyed reading, and leaning many things about so many different watches. I have been an avid collector, and dealer of Gen watches for years, but I have learned more in the last few months on this forum than the last 2 years dealing with Gens. I have also met a few friends along the way. My quest for a Franken DSSD started this summer when I ran across Blue Rocket's PB Franken DSSD Thread. I had no idea who Pbdad was at that time, but I knew I would be sending a watch to him to receive the Gen Bezel Assembly & Dial makeover. A few days after reading about Blue Rocket's watch, I ran across a BK DSSD in the sales section here on this forum. I didnt even haggle over the price, I just bought it as fast as I could. I had seen a few pop up that were literally "gone in 60 seconds" so I knew I had to act fast! I sent the watch to PB in October with the intentions of having him work on the AR, Dial, Movement, and WR while I was sourcing a Gen Bezel Assembly. In early November I found a Gen Bezel Assembly, and sent it overnight to PB. The rest is history... I am in the process of sourcing a Gen Bracelet and Clasp for the watch. IMO, this watch deserves so much more than the Rep Bracelet. Construction-wise its fine, but it has many tells - Cornette on the clasp, Link Screws, SEL Fitment, etc. In the mean time, I purchased a black Rubber B Strap. I have grown to love Rubber Straps on my AP's, and Pam's so I figured, Why not on a Rolex? The fit and feel are amazing, and it looks pretty good too! Thanks for reading, now on to the pics! Gen DSSD I recently Sold (For Comparison) Back to the Franken: Amazing Gen-LIke Lume - Look how well he matches the color of the Gen Pearl Lume! Thanks for Looking!

As there does not seem to be a thread dedicated to the DSSD Prohunter variations, hopefully the following details will be useful. In case anyone is unaware of the Prohunter line, this was the brainchild of a vintage Rolex dealer, well known in gen Rolex forums. The older members will know who I’m referring to. Let us refer to him as ‘KC’ since including his name in this thread may provide this as a search result in any search engine for anyone typing his name. And I certainly don’t want to attract unnecessary attention to a rep forum. I’m sure most of us know that the gen fora know rep forums exist, however I don’t see the need to frantically wave a red flag in their direction. So….one fine day, KC decided that DLCing certain Rolex models (SD,DSSD,Daytona,etc) and charging a 30-40% markup over the MSRP would make good business sense, and people would be lining up to buy these ‘modded’ Rolexes. Well, he was right. 100 models of each line were created (I can find no references stating there were more than 100 in each case) and sold, presumably to people who had more money than they knew what to do with. Keep in mind, these models are not warrantied by Rolex – as soon as the base Rolex model was modded by applying the DLC coat, this was considered to be out of Rolex warranty terms and conditions. So these Prohunters can no longer be sent in to Rolex for service/repairs, Rolex won’t work on them. Ok, enough history, back to us. Now in this thread I will focus on the DSSD model. You are fully entitled to ask why I should focus on the DSSD only, of course. Well because: A. I like the DSSD Prohunter. A lot. No, seriously. B. Because Charlize Theron has a DSSD. And I like Charlize. A lot. Drool. Now where were we, ah yes, the DSSD Prohunter. With no offense to any DSSD owners, I love the size and look of the DSSD, but I couldn’t bring myself to buy the SS rep because I can’t stand the OGEV/RLS script. It just doesn’t work for me, maybe I’m funny that way. So when the factories released the Prohunter version – where the script is present but practically invisible thanks to the DLC coating, it was a no-brainer. The gen DSSD Prohunter was made in a run of 100 watches. There are always questions on the dials offered by the rep factories – is the single red version correct? Should I have bought the double red, was it more authentic? Are all of the rep versions fantasy models? Will my DSSD Prohunter rep look like a 1:1 to the gen? Let me try to answer some of the questions to some extent. First: Will my DSSD Prohunter rep look like a 1:1 to the gen? Short answer: At present, no (more on this anon). Long answer: Considering the gen was made in a run of 100, and has at least 6 different dial variations that I have found (and there may be more), that means each gen dial version exists in a set of about 16, assuming 100 watches/6 dial versions. So in the long run, if the factories correct all the errors, you will have a 1:1 rep to a gen of which no more than 16 exist in the entire world (considering nothing tragic has occurred to any of them). May the force be with you while walking down a dark alley. I have found the following dial versions for the gen DSSD Prohunter. The dials range from a single line in red (Sometimes DEEPSEA, sometimes PROHUNTER), double line in red, and even three lines in red. Also, on some dials, Prohunter is shown as PRO-HUNTER, whereas on others is shown as PROHUNTER. I imagine KC and team decided that having the same dial on a 100 watches wouldn’t make sound business sense if you wanted it to be unique, no. A Phantom (fancy name for stealth IMO) DSSD Prohunter also exists: I could not get a pic of the gen DSSD Prohunter caseback, but it should be similar to the gen Milgauss Prohunter caseback shown here: Another company (completely unrelated to the Prohunter company) in collaboration with the family of Jacques Piccard also released a DLC version of the DSSD, of which 86 were made. Here is a pic of the gen. Note that the JP DSSD does NOT feature the word Prohunter on the dial. And here is the gen Piccard caseback which is familiar to all those who own the rep DSSD Prohunter: Phew, with all that out of the way let’s talk about the rep versions available. The rep factories released the Prohunter in two dial versions: one with a single line (DEEPSEA) in red as follows, this is a correct gen dial version: And the other with two lines in red as follows, also a correct gen dial version: So BOTH versions of the rep have the correct dial. The caseback however is another story altogether. This is the biggest flaw on the rep watch (both versions), as it comes with the Jacques Piccard caseback, which is unrelated to the Prohunter as I mentioned earlier. However I suppose this can be remedied to some extent by replacing the Piccard mid caseback with the grey mid caseback from the SS DSSD. I have not seen a PVD DSSD with the word Deepsea in red and no Prohunter on the dial – that would be the correct dial for the Piccard. I hope this was of some help. Cheers, T

Hi there Anyone have any spare or replacement pearls you're willing to sell? I've got a bp dssd ceramic that the pearl keeps getting knocked off...if you don't have any onhand, any recommendations where I might find one? The raised pearl and my wrist movement don't seem to mesh... Thanks in advance

You guys that choose DSSD/SD over subs or subc is it mainly due to the cyclops issues or what is it that makes those models more appealing? I notice more of the former being sold or traded but noob v2 for example tends to rarely come up. Just curious what your thinking was when deciding to buy one over the other.

Hi all, I have an ultimate version of the deep sea dweller with 2836 movement that I got from perfect clones about 2 months ago. I've worn it maybe 10 times. I just shook my wrist and the bezel insert fell off without provocation. Anyone ever have an issue with that before? If I get a replacement insert will it fit and if so how do I secure it to the bezel? Thanks E

while browsing the TT website, i came across these two rolex DSSD reps: ROLSD017 - http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_8&products_id=6579 ROLSD029 - http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_8&products_id=10333 017 was released in 2010, but costs more than the newer version 029. 029 claims to have improved the bezel by making it pitch black instead of the greyish bezels of the early reps. one interesting thing i noticed while looking through the QC pics was the shape of the triangle around the pearl: ROLSD017 - 2010 ROLSD029 which one is the better rep in your opinion? any others you would recommend? edit: AR doesn't seem to be very good on ROLSD029

Hello Gents, Any suggestions on how to fix this? I was told it happens quite often on reps. Also any ideas on how to tighten the divers extension so it doesn't keep opening every time I try to put the watch on?

This is my first purchase from Joshua at Perfect Clones. So far have had a good experience with the exception of my address being incorrect, but now that I look back at the QC photos I could have caught it. DSSD - M660304 Let me know what you guys think?

Question for everyone: I received my BK DSSD today. woohoo!! Now what?? Any suggestions for mod? Does it need a new pearl? A re-lume? Swap out bracelet for something better? Thanks everyone

Hey there knowledgable friends, I am trying to repair one of my favourite watches, my Deep Sea Sea Dweller. The movement is going to be repaired and serviced but now I want to fix the dial issue once and for all. What is the dial issue you ask? I'll tell you! The dial is missing both feet and was simply glued to the movement, when I get the fresh movement back I would like to avoid glueing the dial back on to the movement and for that I need a new dial. What is my best course of action to get a high quality rep dial for this watch? can I go through a TD or is there a better source for replica parts? Any help at all is, as always, greatly appreciated. Mike

I'll start by saying this, I am not very good at documenting my work but pictures are en route, I also made some Newb mistakes during the dissassembly that I may need help fixing.... alright disclaimers notwithstanding.... I performed my very first keyless works repair last night! This whole issue came about after I got frustrated with a crooked crystal on my DSSD, it has been like this from the time it arrived, over a year ago. I had attempted to press the crystal in, with no luck, in the past but had never taken a watch apart and certainly didn't try that a year ago with I got this watch. This time, I started tapping the crystal (dumb, I know) and in the process I caused the second hand to pop off, the dial to come loose, and the crystal to stay right where it was when I started At this point I knew I had to take the watch apart to replace the second hand and I would just pop the crystal out and re-install it into the watch. (I also had no idea that the dial was loose on the movement at this time). I managed to get the Crystal installed in the case, nice and straight, and simply pop the second hand back on, no problems and I was good to go.... threw the watch on my wrist and took the dog for a walk, and that's when I saw the dial turning freely around inside the case When I got home I took the watch off and opened it up, pulled the movement out and glued the dial to the movement ring (not sure what this part is called but it had come unglued from the ring that connects the dial to the movement. I popped the watch back together only to immediately notice a spec of dust on the dial, and I went back in...... that's when my luck ran out and I finally gummed up the keyless works. It was now 20:00 and I was getting tired, but that didn't stop me. Tonight, between finishing my assembly and taking the dog for another walk, I will update this post with terribly documented repair pictures that show very little detail and will never help anyone, but like I said, I'm no good at documenting anything. Until then, I hope everyone is having a good.....time Mike

Hi, anyone have this problem where the pearl on the DSSD changed color?? I have sent it to Vac for relume two months back. Any way to make the pearl back to it original color??