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It's Military Time


Stukov

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Hi!

I've just recieved this nice PAM036 homage from Military Time.

It has Ti case with sapphire front, dark brown sandwich dial, recessed canon pin, a loose crown guard lever, but it worths its price.

p1020565.jpg

This is what I recieved.

I changed the strap for an aftermarket Hirsch Liberty, dark brown.

p1020572.jpg

p1020570r.jpg

The movement is asian 6497 with swans neck and 50+ hours power reserve.

As you can see the lume is quite poor, but I have already ordered some kind of lume material from a special dealer in my country. I will do the job if my watchsmith can even remove the caseback and take out the dial and hands.

p1020583m.jpg

I will inform the crew about the process...

Edited by Stukov
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Nice case

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This is the exact watch that got me hooked on Panerai reps. I still have it, and it gets wrist time. I was really impressed with the case - very light, and the movement with its "faux" swan neck. I just wish I could get "Panerai" put on the tobacco sandwich dial, as I love the combination.

One thing I noticed about the recessed canon pinion, though. After removing the movement and taking the hands and dial off - just for practice, I compared the pinion to the H3 which has been talked about and looks to be the same height. It is definitely not an H1 and there is a lot of space between the hands. So I wonder if a slight sanding of the minute hand would make it flush with the pin top?

Anyway enjoy the watch. Although it may have cost very little, the amount you will end up spending on more Pan reps will cost a lot more :) I'm collected about ten PAMs in the past month or two. My genuine watches haven't seen much wrist time lately.

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I just wish I could get "Panerai" put on the tobacco sandwich dial, as I love the combination.

One thing I noticed about the recessed canon pinion, though.

Hi,

how about ordering a DSN Pannie dial of your liking? Also, unless I

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Hi!

I will post pics about the CG....

I have the lume material, I will buy some acrilyc varnish.

The method that I wanna do is to fill the marks on the sandwich dial, without taking it apart. I will use a fine syringe.

Is this procedure correct? Or should I take the dial apart and apply the mixed lume+varnisgh patches?

On weekend I will do the job!

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I have the lume material, I will buy some acrilyc varnish.

The method that I wanna do is to fill the marks on the sandwich dial, without taking it apart. I will use a fine syringe.

Is this procedure correct? Or should I take the dial apart and apply the mixed lume+varnisgh patches?

:huh: Not saying a syringe wouldn't work, but I can't imagine that turning out looking good. I say do it the right way and separate the dial and apply the lume to the back plate. That's probably easier anyway.

A lot of better quality asian 6497 movements (i.e. swanneck version) do come with the taller cannon pin. But the tall cannon pin does not fix the recessed cannon pin problem. Drulee was on the right path earlier and to fix this problem you need to sand down the tubes on the back of the hands. All the tall cannon pin does is move the position of the hands higher off the dial.

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:huh: Not saying a syringe wouldn't work, but I can't imagine that turning out looking good. I say do it the right way and separate the dial and apply the lume to the back plate. That's probably easier anyway.

+1 The best is to separate the two (use a box cutter blade)! Also spray paint the back plate with white flat acrylic! I believe Francisco does this on his lume mod...and does come out better!

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Stukov,

Two things.

1. Great watch.

2. Love the Avatar but please consider changing it for those of us who view this forum from work as it isn't boss friendly.

Thanks!

+1 lol

The yellow one is quite bright! :blink::D

How does the Ti compare to Steel in weight? I've seen cases that appear to only be 10 grams difference, which wouldn't appear to be that much?

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" Too bad it's not a sandwich dial :)"

Sorry, You're right!

Believe me, I spent ages looking for a ti PAM with tobacco sandwich dial, then I spent more time trying to find out if anybody could brand my dial - apart from having doing it myself I've had no luck.

Would you mind taking a close-up picture of your dial at an angle, so I can see how deep the ridges on the numbers/marks are? Mine are very deep, but yours looks closer to the genuine sandwich dial design.

Thx

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Stukov,

if you still did not make the relume job:

don't use a syringe!

Take the two layers apart and go the traditional way.

(Been there, done that).

Also, I too highly recommend you put a white primer spray beneath the new lume. You may compare how it affects the final lume in this old post of mine: http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=20785

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The Ti case it told to be about 20g lighter than stainless steel.

My watch weights exaclty 70g without strap. The movement itself is can be about 20g.

Cool, many thanks for the info :)

20g doesn't sound a lot but then it's a fair amount when compared to the full SS weight!

Also, I too highly recommend you put a white primer spray beneath the new lume. You may compare how it affects the final lume in this old post of mine: http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=20785

Great link, thanks! :)

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Great link, thanks! :)

Thanks!

Just be warned that I mentioned that old post only to support the use of a white background. About the lume itself, I currently recommend Superluminova over any other method, spray lume included. As Superluminova is much smoother and less easy to increase the dial thickness.

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