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There is a lot of photography within these fora.


Packard

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Canon EOS400D (and Panasonic Lumix FZ20 before that) with a stock 18-55mm lens. Sometimes I use a reverser-ring for a macro. Lights? Just one or two boring spots and a light tent. All of this goes into a MacBook with Adobe CS4.

While it's important to have a decent-enough camera, regardless of what purists say, it's not that important to spend too much.

Settings? I start on Aperture Priority and see where I end up.

oyster-08-640.jpg

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The right one. Your photos are amazing.

Thank you, Pugs. I've learned quite a lot from you and BT over the years... And for that, I'm grateful. I'm still learning... And have a ways to go... But it's definitely a lot of fun, and an unexpected secondary hobby resulting from my first love of watches!

^_^

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@Pug and Ubi

I have a macro setting on my camera but are there any techniques I can use to get even closer? With this P&S I don't think I can use any lens attachments.

A Macro setting is only really useful if you want to take really close up close-ups. If you want to take an entire watch, a macro isn't the best choice.

If your camera can't take really close macros, there's no amount of magic (short of holding a magnifying glass in front of the lens) that will make it do something it can't.

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A Macro setting is only really useful if you want to take really close up close-ups. If you want to take an entire watch, a macro isn't the best choice.

If your camera can't take really close macros, there's no amount of magic (short of holding a magnifying glass in front of the lens) that will make it do something it can't.

Thanks Pug and Ubi

I will give the magnifying glass technique a try. Unfortunately, I do not have a lens from a SLR.

Does the amount of light available affect the cameras ability to zoom in really tight?

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Lighting is crucial for me. I set my camera to the motion setting to leverage the quickest shutter speed available within my settings and environment. I use this method as I don't use a tripod; hand holding each shot requires as little shake and disturbance as possible, so the faster shutter helps reduce motion, resulting in a clearer pic for me. Since the shutter is operating at a faster setting, lighting is critical since the quick shutter doesn't allow for a lot of exposure.

Not sure if that makes sense or not...

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Lighting is crucial for me. I set my camera to the motion setting to leverage the quickest shutter speed available within my settings and environment. I use this method as I don't use a tripod; hand holding each shot requires as little shake and disturbance as possible, so the faster shutter helps reduce motion, resulting in a clearer pic for me. Since the shutter is operating at a faster setting, lighting is critical since the quick shutter doesn't allow for a lot of exposure.

Not sure if that makes sense or not...

Using an off-camera flash will resolve the camera shake issues. The flash duration (less than 1/1000 of a second) effectively becomes the shutter speed. Hold the flash quite close to the subject for the softest lighting effect. 6 - 12 inches is good, but closer to the 6" distance is best.

This will not work with your on-camera flash as it will suffer from paralax and will also cast a nasty shadow.

We should have a photography how to thread as a sticky.

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I use a kodak Easy Share 5.0 mp camera set at the "closeup" setting, used with a light box made from an old cardboard box and a desklamp above. I run the pictures through "picture-it 9" to resize and refine them. I usually come up with a result like this;

Treasure11.jpg

And to think, I still remember bringing film to the "Photomat" to get my pictures developed. Ok, now I feel old.

Cheers :wheelchair:

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Guest HaloArchive

I use a P&S camera :) Kodak V610. All of my settings are tweaked but, I dont remember them :p

Heres a picture, taken with natural light through a window:

1008054tr0.jpg

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Most of my pics were taken with a 5 year old 4MP Canon A80 point-&-shoot, which recently died

15knobs024cham1.jpg

So I just upgraded to a 10MP Canon SX10IS, which I am not sure is living up to its promise of higher resolution & extreme macros (via its built-in 20x optical zoom vs the A80's 3x). Though, to be fair, it only just arrived last night, but, so far, I am far from impressed (within its limits, I think my old A80 produced less noisy pics - even at low ISOs)

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But just in case, does anyone have experience the 2 other cameras I have under consideration - the 10MP Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX3 or 14MP Canon PowerShot G10?

Ideally, I want a point-&-shoot with high resolution, a good macro & RAW support (I gave up RAW thinking the SX10IS's 20x zoom would more than placate me with crystal clear super macros, but I have yet to see the beef?).

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Freddy,

I have had both the Canon G9 and the Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX2. My parents have the G10. Very similar to my G9. I definitely love the G9 over the Panasonic. The wide 16x9 feature was kind of cool, but I usually left it in the 4x3 mode. Only really useful for nice landscape shots. The macro wasn't nearly that good IMO. And it was very noisy in low light situations. Just my 0.02

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Guest HaloArchive

Id also say the G10, I know someone who has one and it is a great camera!

If you want a good DSLR, I think a few people have it here, the Canon EOS Rebel is great.

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But just in case, does anyone have experience the 2 other cameras I have under consideration - the 10MP Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX3 or 14MP Canon PowerShot G10?

Ideally, I want a point-&-shoot with high resolution, a good macro & RAW support (I gave up RAW thinking the SX10IS's 20x zoom would more than placate me with crystal clear super macros, but I have yet to see the beef?).

fwiw, i have been doing a little camera research recently as well and am strongly considering the g10 as well; looks to be just the right amount of camera to me ;)

deltatahoe

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I have a DSLR and love to use it in nature and other art stuff I do, but most of my watch images are taken with a Nikon pocket camera. Mini tripod. No flash. Natural light - no box or tent. Auto shutter release for no shake. That is it. Plain and simple. Setups are the key. I just need good angles to light and I'm also partial to sort of symmetry dial shots. All in all, the little pocket cams are great. There is a reason for it: Small diameter lenses allow for easier close focusing. Anyone who has fooled with auto focus on a 200 macro at a couple inches knows it is a nightmare. So for certain situations the point and shoots come in handy. Noone has ever looked at my watch images and guessed they were taken with anything other than an SLR of some kind. Again, light and setups are key. Here is living proof expensive gear is not really necessary. Presto...

UN12r.jpg

UN1r.jpg

DJ10.jpg

DJ3-1.jpg

Aquatimer7r.jpg

Aquatimer6r.jpg

PO18.jpg

PO4.jpg

UNgmt1.jpg

UNgmt6r.jpg

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The wide 16x9 feature was kind of cool, but I usually left it in the 4x3 mode. Only really useful for nice landscape shots. The macro wasn't nearly that good IMO. And it was very noisy in low light situations. Just my 0.02

Thanks, but are these features/issues describing the Panasonic Lumix or the Canon G9?

Oddly, none of the 4 camera stores I visited have the Lumix in stock (due to its popularity), so I need to rely on word-of-mouth recommendations & reviews if I go that way. On the other hand, I have tested the G10 & thought it a great camera. But, at least in a store setting, the SX10IS's 20x zoom clinched the deal for me. It was only after I got the camera home that I started noticing the noise (relative to my old A80) and slight chromatic aberrations (rainbows) on some edges. Still, that zoom makes it easy to portrait a wristie against the world behind it (a la DSLRs)

1301.jpg

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