omgiv Posted February 14, 2010 Report Share Posted February 14, 2010 Hi Guys, I will be getting a couple of MBW cases soon and really want the lug holes and probably bracelets drilled out. I really like doing things myself but don't know if I should attempt this one. I will tell you the equipment I have and see what you think. I have a Cameron micro drill press (164) with a double cross slide and vise that I have used for some watchmaking projects. The drill can run at speeds of 9500, 17,000, and 30,000 RPM's but I also have a variable speed control. My only concern is that the vise that mounts to the table is not very deep. I placed a replica Tudor case I have in it and it fits about 1/3 on the case in the vise. The case was very secure but I am sure that more would be better. I have been reading posts that say cobalt bits have been successful, but I was wondering if a carbide bit or end mill would be better. Here is a link to the press that I have: http://www.cameronmicrodrillpress.com/presses-164.html Thanks in advance!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligoat Posted February 14, 2010 Report Share Posted February 14, 2010 JMB's the pro on this stuff, but I drill lugholes at 1500-2000 rpm maybe, and it could be a little slower. Otherwise your set-up looks OK to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omgiv Posted February 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2010 Thanks for the info. Pardon my ignorance, but who is JMB? I was also under the impression that it was better to drill harder metals at higher rpm's. I could be wrong, but I remember reading that in a few different places. If it works for you though, that says something. I have never done it, so any information is better than what I have now. Thanks!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 omgiv, neat looking little drill press! I think this, coupled with your vise and cross-slide vise should "gitter done"! What I have done is machined an aluminum bar which I can clamp the case to and then clamp the bar in the vise but this is just to make the setup quicker and simpler. As a general rule of thumb the smaller the drill the higher the rpm as cutting speed is calculated as Surface Feet/Minute, the surface being the drill bit outer edge. Here's something from the web that pretty much matches my books: Drilling Speed in rpm = (CS x 4) / dia where CS = cutting speed in sfm = 300 for aluminum, 120 for brass and bronze, 90 for low carbon steel, 70 for cast iron, and 50 for alloy steel. So ballpark speed for a .079" bit in alloy steel would be (50x4)/.079 = 2531 RPM. If you drill too slow with a small bit it may "grab" and snap - major PITA if you're 3/4 done and then snap off a bit, DAMHIK! Use plenty of cutting oil and not too light a cut so you don't burnish or work-harden the stainless. CN cases are a crap-shoot - one will drill like butter while the next might take a bit per hole! If you can afford carbide bits you shouldn't have any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justasgood Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 I drill all of mine by hand. Really not very difficult to do/ I use a pin vise, drilling oil and a bit readily available for dremels in a 6 piece kit. It doesn't take very long and the control you have is ideal. Good luck, Kurt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 I drill all of mine by hand. Really not very difficult to do/ I use a pin vise, drilling oil and a bit readily available for dremels in a 6 piece kit. It doesn't take very long and the control you have is ideal. Good luck, Kurt. Kurt, any more info you can provide on this? I too have a pin vice and have had the same thought. Any chance for a link to the exact Dremel kit? A detailed shopping list/pic would be great. Out of curiosity how long does hand jammin' a lug take? Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omgiv Posted February 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 Thanks guys for the replies and information. I think that I might just give it a go. Has anyone ever drilled the ends of the current MBW/MBK bracelet that eurotimez is selling? Also, would end mill bits be better than drill bits? Thanks!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justasgood Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 Kurt, any more info you can provide on this? I too have a pin vice and have had the same thought. Any chance for a link to the exact Dremel kit? A detailed shopping list/pic would be great. Out of curiosity how long does hand jammin' a lug take? Thanks in advance! About an hour tops including the bevel and polish. I'll take some pics shortly... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justasgood Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 Kurt, any more info you can provide on this? I too have a pin vice and have had the same thought. Any chance for a link to the exact Dremel kit? A detailed shopping list/pic would be great. Out of curiosity how long does hand jammin' a lug take? Thanks in advance! Here you go: The drill bits run $8-10 from Home depot (3/64th for drilling) 2 sizes larger to bevel, and the pin vise was $12.00. I wrapped it with double sided padded tape for a comfortable grip and then I use the round files to clean up the holes. Don't forget the cutting oil. Pretty high tech huh..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 I don't think you'll find an end-mill that small with that kind of depth of cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 justasgood I always wondered about using a pinvise instead of a machine to widen the hole, do you find the end result identical to using a press or is the hole very "soft" looking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omgiv Posted February 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 Thanks for all of the information guys. You have given me the confidence to try it out. Now, if I can get the courage to do crown guards I decided to try an old bracelet that I have lying around. It accepts standard spring bars that are about 1.7mm. I only have titanium plated bits and it worked on the one link perfectly. I used rapid tap as the cutting fluid and it only too about 2 minutes in the press. It will now take 2mm spring bars. So, once again, I am waiting on everything to get here. Will post pictures of the progress. Thanks again!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 Good deal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 Thanks Kurt, To recap, 3/64 for the hole and 5/64 for the bevel... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 Or a #55 bit for the thru-hole... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justasgood Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 Thanks Kurt, To recap, 3/64 for the hole and 5/64 for the bevel... Correct. Note: The 3/64 will leave some work left to make it big enough for the 2mm spring bar ends. That is where the round files help. The number 55 bit that JMB refereced will probably save a step but I couldn't find one at the HD and I don't like to wait to order from ebay or online. Good Luck, Kurt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 Yeah, I doubt your local Ace Hardware would have numbered drill bits! I usually buy them by the dozen as sometimes it takes a couple of bits to do a case... Someday when I get rich I'll order a carbide to see if the outrageous cost is worth it as far as number of pieces produced... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omgiv Posted February 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 I just ordered some carbide bits and will let you know how they fair. I was surprised that I didn't chew up the titanium coated bit when I did the bracelet. How many cases can you normally do on a single bit (just for reference)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 It depends. If you hit a hard spot one bit might not get all the way through one! Rapid Tap is good oil, I use it and it's used where I work. I would think that hard spots might not be a problem with a solid carbide bit. At $10/ea I will be very curious about your results. Remember, carbide is extremely brittle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omgiv Posted February 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 I got my bits from this store: http://drillcity.stores.yahoo.net/index.html. They say that they are tungsten carbide. The 5 pack of 1.3mm bit was only about $9. I know what you mean about brittle. I have used carbide gravers on my 8mm ww lathe and they are a PIA to sharpen if the point breaks. They do cut well though!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 Very good prices, I usually order from MSC Direct... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.