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yuki eta 2824 adaptor


marc jacobs

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Wow! Looks like Yuki is a copy cat!

I should be increasing the price of my holders!

I have the same ones for $40! I'm just looking into getting them rhodium plated.

But for now I have a batch of 2824-2 to fit in both 1570 w/ date and 1570 with no date.

I'll be offering them for sale soon.

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Interesting that they're listed to fit either 2824 or 2784; 2783 and 2784 have the same stem height/position as a 2836...

Well, the 2824-2 and 2836-2, and 2846 will fit in the 1680, 1665, 1655, 1675 case, but you will only be able to fit the 2824-2 in the 5513, and other non date case.

I have a batch of holders to fit in the 1570 date cases, as well as a batch to fit in the 1530 non-date case.

The one on the left is thinner to fit in the non date case, and the one on the right is to fit date cases. As you can see, one is taller.

1530and1575.jpg

For example, I have the taller 1570/w date holder fixed to an ETA 2846:

92533479.jpg

Then the dial sits on top of the holder:

withdial.jpg

Then it is cased and secured with case clamps:

2846incase.jpg

Here is the stem alignment. Ever so slightly sitting deeper in the case. But done on purpose to allow for the layer of glue between dial and holder.

stemalignment.jpg

Here is the batch that I received a few days ago. They just need to be cleaned of machine oil and inspected before I offer them for sale. I am also looking at getting them plated, but still waiting on a price. I bought one of those rhodium plating pens, and test plated the sample. It is a lot of prep work and time for me to do it, so I may outsource it, or just sell them unplated.

roughrings.jpg

Also, the 2824-2 is not 100% with stem alignment in the 5513 or other non date case.

Here I test fitted a 2824-2 mainplate in a genuine 1002 case. The 1002 case is made for the non date 1530/1570 movement. The stem is slightly off center. It is still workable, but if you want perfect stem alignment, you will have to sand the back of your dial in order for the movement to sit deeper.

15302.jpg

Anyway, if anyone is interested, fire me a PM. These will be available soon and you can save a few bucks by buying them here.

Keep in mind that these will also work in 1500 Date cases, as well as 5500, 1002, etc. For those that have salvaged their movements for sport projects!

Why not buy one of these holders and drop an ETA in the old case.

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Well, the 2824-2 and 2836-2, and 2846 will fit in the 1680, 1665, 1655, 1675 case, but you will only be able to fit the 2824-2 in the 5513, and other non date case.

I have a batch of holders to fit in the 1570 date cases, as well as a batch to fit in the 1530 non-date case.

I presume you are you using a thicker ring for the 2824 to fit in the 1570 date cases, correct?

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Interesting that they're listed to fit either 2824 or 2784; 2783 and 2784 have the same stem height/position as a 2836...

I have a same question with yuki,

she just reply me, she know they are same stem position.

But she are not sure their "extension wheel" can it fit on 2836.

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I presume you are you using a thicker ring for the 2824 to fit in the 1570 date cases, correct?

You are correct.

You can use a 2824-2, 2836-2, or 2846 with the taller, or shorter holder. I find it easier to have something to glue the dial to. So the taller holder is ideal for any of the vintage 1570 date projects. I have fitted both 2824-2 and 2846 with the same holder. The taller holder has the same diameter as the gen 1570 calendar seat. 26.60mm for the dial to rest on. It will drop into a 1680, 1665, 1655, 1675, 1500, 1501, etc. I have not tried it on a 1601, but it is possible as the smaller diameter may fit just inside the bevel of the pie pan dial.

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I asked yuki a couple of days ago if they would fit a 2836 and a 2846. This is what they said:

"Thank you for your interest and visit!

The adaptor fit for ETA 2836 as well.

But for ETA 2846, we never try before. Sorry that we've no idea on it."

Also I asked about their dials and hand sets fitting on ETA movements and this is what they said:

"Our 5513 dial and hand set can't fit ETA movement .

Actually we're developing the hands for ETA now, also we'll have 5513 dial which fit ETA movement soon, probably it will arrive on Jun."

So, I guess they have seen the potential value in producing items for us hobbyists. I will wait till june to get one of these dials.

@stilty, I would like a couple of these adaptors please. 1 for a 2836 and 1 for a 2846. Thanks

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  • 2 years later...

Especially @stilty:

 

Sorry for digging out this old thread, but I found this by searching for an ETA movement adapter.

I have a RLX 1002 case (Oyster perpetual, 34 mm) and want to attach a 2824-2 to this case.

Do you have such a movement holder left for me?

Could not send you pm, may be it`s full?

 

 

Btw I`m complete newbie in this Forum and I will introduce later.

 

Best regards

 

Frank

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"Sorry for digging out this old thread, but I found this by searching for an ETA movement adapter.

I have a RLX 1002 case (Oyster perpetual, 34 mm) and want to attach a 2824-2 to this case.

Do you have such a movement holder left for me?"

 

Sad to say but Stilty has just about dropped out of the replica hobby and does not post very often. He might pop up though, you never know.

 

The last project I worked on (replica DJ/replica dial/eta 2836), I had to stick the dial to the regular brass movement holder with dial dots (no dial feet). This seems to work Ok and the dial dots give a little extra space between the dial and date wheel overlay. The catch is getting it all together while locating the dial correctly, installing the case clamps and screws without moving the dial, or allowing the hands to scratch the dial if the movement falls away from the dial etc.

The same type of project is much easier if you have dial feet and the proper spacer though. 

 

The inside dimensions of the 1002 case are the same as a no date submariner, AK etc so any spacer that will work in this situation will also work in the 1002. Iirc the spacer needed is a little bit thinner than the standard brass spacers in Eta powered replicas so you may need to have the od cut down a little. 

 

The Eta 2824 is also thinner than the 'replica standard' 2836/46 so if you use a date dial and an overlay with rolex font, you may run into a space problem between the dial and date wheel.

Try to stay away from plastic spacers and always use case screws/clamps if at all possible.

If there are no case clamp grooves in a case, you can cut them with a cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool...just mark the spots with a Sharpie marker and cut two small grooves inside the case where they are needed being careful not to cut into the caseback threads. You will need to remove the crystal so it will not get damaged.

 

You might read up on various projects in the forum and see how others solved similar problems.

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  • 2 years later...

"How do I  know what all the parts I will need are to pull this off?"  

The spacer ring you will need depends on the case and movement to be used. Many standard brass spacers used in replicas are 29.15mm od x 26.05mm id x 2.35mm thick...plus or minus a hair or two. I also have one that is 29.15mm id x 25.6mm id x 1.65mm thick but do not remember what movement/case combo it was used in. You can thin the standard spacer rings down to the thickness needed by sanding them down on 'wet or dry' sandpaper placed on a sheet of glass etc under running water using maybe 180 to thin it down and put a smoother finish on it with 400 or 600.

My Stilty Spacer for Eta 2836/46 is stepped on the outside...28.5mm on the back side and 27.45mm on the dial side. It is stepped inside as well...25.5mm opposite the 27.45 cut and 26.0mm opposite the 28.5mm cut x 2.25mm thick. This spacer can be sanded thinner for a no date movement if needed. I used one when putting an Eta 2846 in a genuine 162xx case to make a '1016' and it worked perfectly. The picture above shows the spacer used with a 1680 dial that would be 26.5mm so a spacer like I have may need to be cut down for this combination. Mine worked fine in the '1016' because the dial is bigger in diameter than a 1680.

The standard replica spacer is usually a good fit on an Eta movement and a little bit loose inside the average replica case (depending on the case). The Stilty spacer is precision made and is a very good fit when using an Eta 28xx in a genuine rolex case. I have an MBK '5513' case with a rolex 1520 in it and am going to put an Eta 2846 in it later using a Stilty Spacer. It may be a few months but I will post how it went on this thread. Keep in mind that all MBK 5513/1680 cases are the same and made for an Eta 2836 so a genuine 1530 base rolex date movement will fit but a no date movement will not unless you use a genuine spec calendar spacer and date movement center wheel, canon pinion, and hour wheel.

Freebie!...after all the hassles I have had with vintage type Frankensteins using genuine movements in all sorts of aftmkt cases, I would not encourage anyone to start out with a genuine movement Frankenstein project. Always start out with Eta or something similar.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  

Save genuine movement Frankensteins until after you have gone at least three fourths nuts screwing with Eta projects.   :partytime:

 

 

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If only Stilty was still around ... :(

Raffle's Time #2 rings have been good for me. I built a 1016 using a gen 16014 case and a 5514 using HH's case. They both needed slight modifications, but the diameters were good.

Also for anyone wanting to do a build that the gen has a 3135, I think the TC spacer will work well, as will Yuki's.

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"How do I  know what all the parts I will need are to pull this off?"  

The spacer ring you will need depends on the case and movement to be used. Many standard brass spacers used in replicas are 29.15mm od x 26.05mm id x 2.35mm thick...plus or minus a hair or two. I also have one that is 29.15mm id x 25.6mm id x 1.65mm thick but do not remember what movement/case combo it was used in. You can thin the standard spacer rings down to the thickness needed by sanding them down on 'wet or dry' sandpaper placed on a sheet of glass etc under running water using maybe 180 to thin it down and put a smoother finish on it with 400 or 600.

My Stilty Spacer for Eta 2836/46 is stepped on the outside...28.5mm on the back side and 27.45mm on the dial side. It is stepped inside as well...25.5mm opposite the 27.45 cut and 26.0mm opposite the 28.5mm cut x 2.25mm thick. This spacer can be sanded thinner for a no date movement if needed. I used one when putting an Eta 2846 in a genuine 162xx case to make a '1016' and it worked perfectly. The picture above shows the spacer used with a 1680 dial that would be 26.5mm so a spacer like I have may need to be cut down for this combination. Mine worked fine in the '1016' because the dial is bigger in diameter than a 1680.

The standard replica spacer is usually a good fit on an Eta movement and a little bit loose inside the average replica case (depending on the case). The Stilty spacer is precision made and is a very good fit when using an Eta 28xx in a genuine rolex case. I have an MBK '5513' case with a rolex 1520 in it and am going to put an Eta 2846 in it later using a Stilty Spacer. It may be a few months but I will post how it went on this thread. Keep in mind that all MBK 5513/1680 cases are the same and made for an Eta 2836 so a genuine 1530 base rolex date movement will fit but a no date movement will not unless you use a genuine spec calendar spacer and date movement center wheel, canon pinion, and hour wheel.

Freebie!...after all the hassles I have had with vintage type Frankensteins using genuine movements in all sorts of aftmkt cases, I would not encourage anyone to start out with a genuine movement Frankenstein project. Always start out with Eta or something similar.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  

Save genuine movement Frankensteins until you have gone at least three fourths nuts screwing with Eta projects.   :partytime:

 

 

Thank you, and yes, I am going to use my 2824-2 in the Josh 5513 case I'm buying.      I know it's not a slow beat, but I already have the 2824-2.   Will the adapter rings we are talking about fit in the same way as it would for a slowbeat ETA you are mentioning?

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"Will the adapter rings we are talking about fit in the same way as it would for a slowbeat ETA you are mentioning?"

Yes, most modern ETA 28xx are the same diameter except for day- date models with the day of the week spelled out at 12...2834-2. Some of the older 28xx are a little but different too.

You can compare modern ETA at    http://www.eta.ch/index.php?id=6&L=2

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Thank you, and yes, I am going to use my 2824-2 in the Josh 5513 case I'm buying.      I know it's not a slow beat, but I already have the 2824-2.   Will the adapter rings we are talking about fit in the same way as it would for a slowbeat ETA you are mentioning?

What was the original movement in the 5513 case? If it was anything other than a 2824 (Asian or ETA), you are going to have stem height issues. My guess is you will probably need a 2836 (or 2846 low beat) to fit, as most of the cartel 5513's came with 2836 clones.

Edited by tomhorn
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I didn't receive the Josh 5513 yet but he says it's going to be a 21J.

So hmmm,  I didn't realize there was a stem height difference in ETA 2824-2 vs the other ETA's. 

 

Can the stem height be changed on a 2824-2 or switched out?   

The stem heights are different because the movement is thicker to accommodate the day wheel, and no, it can't be changed.

Overall height of a 2824-2 is 4.7mm; 2836-2 is 5.2mm. The DG 2813 (A21j) is 5.4mm. Don't have the stem heights off the top of my head.

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