MBK 1680 Aging

[JamesJackson]

Hi Everyone,

I'm looking for some advice about how to Age my MBK 1680 Sub...The insert the case the bracelet...

Thanks, James

[panerai153]

I'm sure nanug is your man for this project

Actually, there have been several very good reviews/how to's on this subject. I would suggest you use the search function, possibly not specifically for a 1680, but "Rolex case aging" etc.

[TeeJay]

First of all, welcome to the party

With regards aging the watch, how comfortable are you with breaking it down into parts and re-assembling it? Aging the parts individually would be a bit easier than aging it all in one assembled watch... Here is how I personally would age the watch after totally breaking it down...

1. Apply a very fine mist of matte-finish clear varnish spray to the dial.

2. Take note of which links of the bracelet would be on 'contact surfaces' of your wrist, ie which links correspond with the inside and outside edges of your wrist.

3. Push those links against bricks/ceramic tile edges, and drag sideways, creating some quite deep scratches.

4. Take a green Scotchbrite pad, and use it heavily in a circular pattern on all the links of the bracelet (including the closed clasp) your objective is two-fold: To start blending in the 'brick scratches' and to re-create decades of the watch bracelet rubbing against surfaces and sleeve cuffs with hair-fine circular scratches.

5. Once that is done, take the pad and more gently, brush all the links of the bracelet (including the closed clasp) parallel with the direction of the bracelet, stroke by stroke, not backwards and forwards. The objective here is to 're-finish' the bracelet so all the previous scratches are blended in, but still visible. The aim here is not to create a bracelet which looks seriously abused, but one which looks 'worn'

6. Take a four-surface nail buffer and gently buff the edges of the closed clasp, where the sides 'roll up' onto the top of the clasp. Your aim is to create small 'polished' areas (about 3mm in width) to represent where the clasp has rubbed against things gently, but frequently enough for it to leave an impression.

7. With the nail buffer, gently buff a line going across the bracelet links about 3m wide on the links which are at the edge of the underneath of your wrist (probably about 1cm from the ends of the clasp) The aim, as above, is to create 'friction polish' on specific areas of the bracelet where it would have contacted sleeves, rubbed on desks etc etc.

Note: The above scuffing marks (apart from the deepest 'brick scratches' should be barely perceptible to the naked eye under normal lighting conditions.

8. Taking the four-surface nail buffer, start with the most course surface, and use it in small circular patterns all over the crystal, until it is almost totally opaque. Then, repeat the process using the progressively finer surfaces, until the crystal is polished back towards clarity, but will retain the same hair-fine scratches as on the bracelet (if the 1680 doesn't have a plexi crystal, ignore this process

9. (Optional) With a jeweller's screwdriver, make very slight scuffs randomly on the bezel insert.

10. With the coarsest surface of the nail buffer, very gently sand the edges of the bezel insert to remove a very fine ring of paint from both the inner, and outer edges (maybe only .5mm in from either edge)

11. With the finest surface of the nail buffer, very gently sand the flat top surface of the bezel insert in tight circular patterns. All you are doing here is dulling the painted finish, and blending it with the sanded edges, you do not want to actually visibly remove paint. Think of it as 'texturizing' rather than actual 'sanding'. It should only really be visible under direct lighting, not to the naked eye.

12. Taking the green Scotchbrite pad, make tight circular brushing movements along both sides of the watch case (including the crown) Again, you are only aiming to get hair-fine scuffs.

Here're a few examples of what the above processes should result in:

Simulated age: Appx 10-15 years

Simulated age: Appx 5-10 years

Simulated age: Appx 56 years but restored to as new condition as possible

As with the above examples, you may wish to keep the bezel insert totally clean, as if it is a new replacement part fitted to an older watch...

Best of luck with your project

[Edit to add]

A watch which should be 30+ years old, and looking pristine will attract more attention than one which has been aged. Remember the supposed age of the 1680, remember who would have used it, and what for when it was brand new, and put all that into the aging process. Other than the bezel insert, even if you go 'too heavy' on the bracelet or case, much of that can always be buffed out with the green Scotchbrite pad, but the insert, once it's scuffed/bleached, there's no option but to replace it with a fresh insert and try again

[ibartsimp]

Nice post!  will try it when I receive my watch (red sub)

[Bc1221]

Where did you get a MBK 1680?!

As for aging, I personally would just relume the dial with a puffy, mustard colored mix and finish it off with a nice matte spray. Be sure to check the ingredients and make sure it's not acetone based. Acetone based sprays will give it a texture. It has a cool effect but no real dial would age like that.

The kind made for model cars seem to be acetone free. A bit pricier but worth it.

The bezel - take the insert off and soak it in bleach for a few mins. Most bezels will fade but I've had some that doesn't (cartel).

The only other mods I'd do is shave the CGs and drill the lug holes to accept thicker spring bars. If you wanna go gen spring bars, you'll have to drill the end links and bracelet. A real pain in the ass. You could always buy a yuki bracelet and gen spec end links.

I'd also recommend Atheya 702 crown and tube. $35 bucks shipped and change the look dramatically.

Don't over do it.

So many people age the hell out of these reps and they look like crap IMO. Rolexes are waterproof. There is no reason why it should look like it's been sitting in the ocean for years.

Look up some 1680 pics and mod based on them.

As with any modding, think it through a few times before doing it. There is no coming back on most mods.

Post some pics when you get it!

[automatico]

I have an MBK 5513 that I got new from F333 about two years ago and have worn it a lot since I stuck the first movement in it maybe a year and a half ago and it's on the second or third movement because I tend to swap them around. I did not try to age the watch at all but wore it daily and tried to take care of it.

 

Here is what is showing in terms of wear:

Light scuffs on the domed GS crystal.

Scuffs on the bracelet mostly on the 12 o'clock side (worn on left wrist).

Light scuffs on the sides of the case, no nicks.

Light scuffs on the sides of a few bracelet link sides.

Slight wear on the insides of the lugs where the outer bracelet links rub against them (I have owned a few high mileage DJs that had a lot of wear on the inside of the lug tips).

Some scratching on the center links where they rub the cutout in the hoods.

Bezel insert, crown, and crown guards are good as new.

Case back good as new (DW case back) mainly because it has a plastic sticker on it and has been on the watch only a few months.

Lug tops are good as new and bevels are fine.

Bezel teeth show no signs of damage.

 

When compared to a new MBK 1680 case, the 5513 definitely shows some wear/age but nothing stands out. It looks like a watch that has been used but has been taken care of (exactly what it is) and since it is a replica of a 40 year old watch, it appears to be 'in good condition for its age'. I see lots of watches in this condition that are 5 to 10 years old and I would guess that if someone takes care of a watch that it will look about like this one in 3 to 5 years. Nicks and dents can happen depending on what the owner does for a living, for recreation, and whether or not they try to take care of their watch.

 

Not to step on any toes but if I wanted a beater or artificially aged watch, I would start with a cheaper cartel/DW etc case because MBK cases are high quality, expensive, and getting harder to find.

[Bc1221]

If I ever decide to do another vintage build.. Shoot me. Lol

I would probably just relume

Matte finish.

Shave GCs and shave the lugs.

Re polish and re brush everything so everything looks new minus the dial and bezel.

Basically make it look like you just got a 50 year old watch from rolex back.

None of that coffee and sugar stuff.

Keep it simple

[Nanuq]

Look up some 1680 pics and mod based on them

True, but choose your target 1680 wisely. Some of us are bad examples to follow.

[dieselpower]

'Nook - that 1680 looks great. Now when are you going to give it some ageing?

[Nanuq]

I thought I'd start on the end links. 1/8" gap to the case is just not big enough!

[dieselpower]

@ 'Nook - Absolutely. I wouldn't be satisfied until I could drive a bus through it.

 

Sorry. Thread hijacking. Unacceptable.

 

What would I do to 'age' a 1680? Wear it, wear it and wear it. Fix things with it still on your wrist, don't be frightened to abuse it. Knock it against a wall as you are walking along a corridor just for the hell of it etc etc. Soon enough it will look pretty beaten up and that can only be a good thing.

 

I have got my 1665 back from a recent trip to the doctor, it has a gen T39 which was damn near perfect. I've only been wearing the watch a couple of weeks and already it has two fairly noticeable scrapes on the plexi. Some people would have a heart attack. I couldn't be happier!