automatico Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 I owned a genuine 6538A a few years back and have a few comments after reading the threads on 6538 projects: 1...Mine had lived a rough life but it looked to have never been polished and did not have any case corrosion...unusual in my experience. 2...The space between the lugs at the 12 o'clock end was a little over 20mm and the other end was about 19.7mm from being bashed or something but there was not a mark on the case. I used a USA rivet oyster on it with the hood on one end ground down a bit. Springbars are the same as 5513 etc. 3...The plated bronze alloy bezel was in excellent condition and was held on to the crystal retaining ring with a shaped spring wire...not snapped over the retaining bezel like modern 'bezel dropper' rlx watches. The red triangle insert was in very good condition but the pearl was mia. 4...If you get in a hurry removing the bezel, it would be easy to break a chunk out of it as the metal is brittle. 5...The 8mm case tube and crown were Ok and all that was needed was a new set of gaskets. The case tube threads (in the case) are not the same as modern watches (bigger OD). 6...A new domed tropic 19 was installed along with a new set of hands. 7...The 1030 was cleaned and oiled, everything was Ok including the sometimes troublesome rotor axle bearing. 8...All in all they are nice watches but nowhere near being worth today's prices imho. So...if I wanted a 6538 replica, I would: 1...Start with the closest to genuine case possible without paying a fortune for a 'designer case'. Same for the dial. 2...Try to get one with a good 8mm crown and if not, get a high quality case tube and crown set like discussed on various RWC threads. Not genuine though, they cost too much now. 3...Try to get a case that will accept oem spec crystals, this is very important. 4...If you find a righteous case...buy a spare one. 5...Go with a slow beat Eta of some sort. I would stay away from genuine rolex 1030 movements because: A...They cost too much. B...Parts are a real hassle. C...They were not that hot to begin with imho. D...You can't see through the case. 6...Use a rivet oyster of some sort. Mine came with a stretch oyster and regular clasp but it was shot. 7...Try to make it water resistant down to 50 or 100 feet so it will not get flooded. 8...Age the watch, crystal, and bracelet by wearing it. 9...Let the sun bleach the dial, hands, and bezel insert. 10...To speed up the aging process...loan it to a wife or girlfriend and get 20 years of wear in 6 months. Or...if you want a genuine example of a famous 1950's/1960's dive watch (bronze bezel and all) for a fraction of the price...get a Zodiac Sea Wolf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aeromatic Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 I owned a genuine 6538A a few years back and have a few comments after reading the threads on 6538 projects: 1...Mine had lived a rough life but it looked to have never been polished and did not have any case corrosion...unusual in my experience. 2...The space between the lugs at the 12 o'clock end was a little over 20mm and the other end was about 19.7mm from being bashed or something but there was not a mark on the case. I used a USA rivet oyster on it with the hood on one end ground down a bit. Springbars are the same as 5513 etc. 3...The plated bronze alloy bezel was in excellent condition and was held on to the crystal retaining ring with a shaped spring wire...not snapped over the retaining bezel like modern 'bezel dropper' rlx watches. The red triangle insert was in very good condition but the pearl was mia. 4...If you get in a hurry removing the bezel, it would be easy to break a chunk out of it as the metal is brittle. 5...The 8mm case tube and crown were Ok and all that was needed was a new set of gaskets. The case tube threads (in the case) are not the same as modern watches (bigger OD). 6...A new domed tropic 19 was installed along with a new set of hands. 7...The 1030 was cleaned and oiled, everything was Ok including the sometimes troublesome rotor axle bearing. 8...All in all they are nice watches but nowhere near being worth today's prices imho. So...if I wanted a 6538 replica, I would: 1...Start with the closest to genuine case possible without paying a fortune for a 'designer case'. Same for the dial. 2...Try to get one with a good 8mm crown and if not, get a high quality case tube and crown set like discussed on various RWC threads. Not genuine though, they cost too much now. 3...Try to get a case that will accept oem spec crystals, this is very important. 4...If you find a righteous case...buy a spare one. 5...Go with a slow beat Eta of some sort. I would stay away from genuine rolex 1030 movements because: A...They cost too much. B...Parts are a real hassle. C...They were not that hot to begin with imho. D...You can't see through the case. 6...Use a rivet oyster of some sort. Mine came with a stretch oyster and regular clasp but it was shot. 7...Try to make it water resistant down to 50 or 100 feet so it will not get flooded. 8...Age the watch, crystal, and bracelet by wearing it. 9...Let the sun bleach the dial, hands, and bezel insert. 10...To speed up the aging process...loan it to a wife or girlfriend and get 20 years of wear in 6 months. Or...if you want a genuine example of a famous 1950's/1960's dive watch (bronze bezel and all) for a fraction of the price...get a Zodiac Sea Wolf. Nice write up automatico! i agree with you 1030 are expensive mine cost me 1350usd although i havent had any problems with it so far but if i was building again i would put in a eta 2846! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizzy Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 Good info! I agree that you need a case that will take a gen crown. I am hoping the one from Josh will work. I'll replace the dial on that one, but Im waiting to find out it anyone has bought one and knows how the crystal fits. dizz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panerai153 Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 Good info! I agree that you need a case that will take a gen crown. I am hoping the one from Josh will work. I'll replace the dial on that one, but Im waiting to find out it anyone has bought one and knows how the crystal fits. dizz Diz, I would shoot mjmj a PM about his experiences with the 6538. He has had a couple and he can probably tell you more about whether or not dials and crystals will fit.I do know he has one from MBK that he was goinbg to sell to me, but there were issues with the dial. he got a replacement dial, but it was too small! Just from my conversations with him, I don't think any of the ones around i.e. yuki, cartel, MBK are going to be what you are looking for , but better to get the correct info from mjmj. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 Unless you have leather wrists, I would avoid the s-t-r-e-t-c-h rivet bracelets (gen or aftermarket). They are very uncomfortable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nanuq Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 ...whether or not dials and crystals will fit.I do know he has one from MBK that he was goinbg to sell to me, but there were issues with the dial. he got a replacement dial, but it was too small! Hence the "wokky" rehaut on many 6538 cases. The gen case is quite small compared to a contemporary "40mm" case, which is the basis for most no-crownguard Subs. So to make the smaller dials fit they just push that rehaut angle out to fill the gap. When you see a vintage piece with the right dial diameter and a nice near-vertical rehaut, you know you're looking at a boutique case (I love that phrase!) or a gen. Compare a gen 6536 and its rehaut: ...to a "boutique" case: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizzy Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 Unless you have leather wrists, I would avoid the s-t-r-e-t-c-h rivet bracelets (gen or aftermarket). They are very uncomfortable. Yes I agree, and be sure to make sure you shave your arms first. Everytime the bracelet moves, it tears out little hairs! Thats the worst part. dizz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizzy Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 Diz, I would shoot mjmj a PM about his experiences with the 6538. He has had a couple and he can probably tell you more about whether or not dials and crystals will fit.I do know he has one from MBK that he was goinbg to sell to me, but there were issues with the dial. he got a replacement dial, but it was too small! Just from my conversations with him, I don't think any of the ones around i.e. yuki, cartel, MBK are going to be what you are looking for , but better to get the correct info from mjmj. Excellent thankyou! I will give him a shout. dizz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoJo35 Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 heh heh.. wokky hmm... oops, no that's just the distortion from the tropic 17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nanuq Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 Niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizzy Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 WOW!!!! I am sooooo jelous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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