yachtmaster Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 I met with a guy trying to sell these to me as gen. Bracelets didn't match with some of the watch. Looks put together with aftermarket cases. NO sure about the dials though. What do you think? CGs look off, or it is just me? He also had a 1675 with wacked ingraved serial numbers So I took these and texted my good buddy these pics and he said RUN dont walk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetor Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 (edited) looks good to me...except the first 1680 case, which the CG looks off. Other than that, you have to decide for yourself on the dials since you would need macros to compare fonts. From my point of view, the hands, insert and dial looks genuine. Edited March 15, 2011 by praetor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woof* Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 How much was he asking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yachtmaster Posted March 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 1680 was $4000 5513 was $4000 red was $6000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woof* Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 I'd take em to an AD or someone you know that's qualified before shelling out that kind of money. Internet pics are not really the best way to determine authenticity on something this valuable. I agree with you tho...something about the cases looks off.....or maybe it's because they're gens..lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prdubis Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Inserts are aftermarket for sure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbh Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Why not just open them up and check the movements? With confirmed gen movements I'd be tempted....after a trip to an AD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligoat Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 I'm with kbh, you have to check the movements first. The inserts don't bother me, the crowns look good, but it's hard to tell with the dials because of the picture quality. Cases also need some further inspection. Prices are OK if everything checks out, but you have to be sure they're not frankens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panerai153 Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 If you are suspicious,heed your buddies advice, if he is knowledgable.Otherwise,you need to have them authenticated. I would take them to an older experienced Rolex watchmaker, someone who has worked on lots of vintage watches. The prices are OK, but not super bargains, especially if it turns out the dials are not genuine. Probably at least 1/3 to 1/2 of the value is in the dials and hands. Look at the vintage forums and see what a good quality Red sub dial is selling for.Remember one thing, there are lots of these floating around. I would bet that there are at least 3-4 1680's (Red & White) and about the same number of 5513's for sale just on the Vintage Rolex Market, every day.So it's not like you are trying to find a 6358, or 6542. They could very well be completely authentic and OK, but at the price the seller is asking, you don't want to find out after the fact that the dial is a nice redial. Inserts are plentiful and not terribly expensive, so if the insert is aftermarket, It won't break the bank to get a nice one.Dial and hands are another story! I would have thought that the inserts would be "Fat font", although there are lots of older subs and SD's around with service replacements that use the thinner fonts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 "If you are suspicious,heed your buddies advice, if he is knowledgable.Otherwise,you need to have them authenticated. I would take them to an older experienced Rolex watchmaker, someone who has worked on lots of vintage watches. The prices are OK, but not super bargains, especially if it turns out the dials are not genuine. Probably at least 1/3 to 1/2 of the value is in the dials and hands. Look at the vintage forums and see what a good quality Red sub dial is selling for.Remember one thing, there are lots of these floating around. I would bet that there are at least 3-4 1680's (Red & White) and about the same number of 5513's for sale just on the Vintage Rolex Market, every day." Very good advice P153! Keeping in mind this is a replica forum... Since the advent of high grade 'supercase' and 'superdial' replicas and insanely priced genuines, I have lowered my standards quite a bit. You might say an enormous bit. For my own use, I would go for a Frankenstein 1680 etc with replica supercase, superdial, and genuine movement (if you like genuine movements). I do not care much for genuine movements any longer because of no parts. If a genuine movement is not that important, go for a 'supercase' and Eta 2846 with a 'superdial' made for the case mounted to the Eta. Use genuine spec case tube and crystal with a genuine crown and have it tested to 50M or so. Hardly anyone can tell the difference anyway, especially self proclaimed 'internet rolexperts'. Many (probably not me) on this forum will bust it in a NYC minute though. Of course if you want a genuine example and plan to wear it a lot, then maybe sell it later on...it will cost a LOT more, both up front and in service/parts cost. What if it gets lost or stolen? Lose it? No way! Well kinda/sorta... I lost a nib tutone 16233 DJ (a few years ago) for over a year...I thought the house cleaner got it but I finally found it in the back of a rolltop desk where I 'hid' it (glad I kept my big mouth shut about it). Then I lost a TAG WN1112 for 9 months. I found it a couple months ago...in the house again! In a Seiko box! I thought it was gone for good...stolen by a crook watch trader etc on one of my road trips. If you can go for a Franko or outright replica, you will save a LOT of $$ but the watch will not sell in regular circles. But...it will probably last as long as a genuine example for a LOT less $$ and a LOT more peace of mind. Something else to think about...the influx of 'supercases', 'superdials', near perfect bezel inserts etc has made hard core collectors gun shy and many will no longer 'pay the price' because they are not sharp enough to tell genuine from 'superstuff' and are very suspicious...so a 100% genuine example might not be worth as much in a few years as it is today. Who knows? What if a 'red hot' buyer gets it in his mind that your 100% genuine watch has a few replica parts? No Sale! Seeing that I choked on genuine 1680, 5513 etc at $1200 a few years ago, there is NO WAY I will pay $4k for one now, especially since I am not sure if I can spot 'superstuff' on one or not. Example: I bought a ND 1655 case from YM and except for a couple tiny details that have been pointed out to me...I can not tell it from a genuine example that a friend bought new in 1971...except for the scratches and nicks on the genuine example. It sure ain't worth $10k difference! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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