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Tudor Snowflake No-Date


jmb

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I think next week I will mill the actual back for this case flat and engrave it. I miced the center of the back and it's about .117" thick so I should be able to mill it flat and have plenty of "meat" left.

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I LOVE the idea. Would simplify things and allow me to use a watch with a somewhat "expendable dial"

I wondwer if there are more available. Still have the lollipop hand?

BTW your avatar, is that the Blue Mosque?

E

Personally specking, I think it gives fantastic results for dials :) The only person who would know if there are still some decals available, would be the creator, Slartibartfast, but sadly, he's not posted in a while :( I do still have the hand, but am waiting on Blix to confirm if they want it :) Yes, it is the King Abdullah II mosque, I came across the pic one day on google, and really liked it :)

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Personally specking, I think it gives fantastic results for dials :) The only person who would know if there are still some decals available, would be the creator, Slartibartfast, but sadly, he's not posted in a while :( I do still have the hand, but am waiting on Blix to confirm if they want it :) Yes, it is the King Abdullah II mosque, I came across the pic one day on google, and really liked it :)

Good to know. I am very interested in the stencil/decal process. I think it will make my life easier and just leave the gen dial for "special" events. That mosque is an incredible building.

E

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You know what, this presents an incredible opportunity. Most rep cases are too large for the smaller vintage dials so we get the huge wokky look to fill the gap.

It seems it would be trivial to use the software and size up the decal 1 or 2mm so it fits a non-wokky case.

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Great work JMB, as usual!

The Tudor caseback is not only flat but a different shape, the teeth are actually channeled into the caseback unlike the 5513 where its stepped -if that makes sense. Higho's photo shows it well, I also took a quick side by side shot of my gen 7016 next to my 5517.

DSC_1611.jpg

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T, there seems to be a bit of a compatibility issue as it will not load into Autocad 2005 - says "invalid drawing", or something...

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toomuch - Unfortunately I don't see any way to "fix" that issue. I have one Tudor Date-Day case (largest Tudor case I have) left and I'll try that back tomorrow but I doubt it will be large enough...

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Great work JMB, as usual!

The Tudor caseback is not only flat but a different shape, the teeth are actually channeled into the caseback unlike the 5513 where its stepped -if that makes sense. Higho's photo shows it well, I also took a quick side by side shot of my gen 7016 next to my 5517.

DSC_1611.jpg

I wonder if this was done this way because of the different movements. Both the early manual wind and the 2472 series.

E

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The Tudor caseback is not only flat but a different shape, the teeth are actually channeled into the caseback unlike the 5513 where its stepped

Now this will be a worthy machining challenge for JMB's mad skills, making a Tudor Channel in a flat back.

I'm sure it would be trivial, but for the "teeth" you'll have to machine into the channel. :g:

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Now this will be a worthy machining challenge for JMB's mad skills, making a Tudor Channel in a flat back.

I'm sure it would be trivial, but for the "teeth" you'll have to machine into the channel. :g:

That IS the challenge for sure.

E

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It seems all of the Tudors have case backs like this - at least on all of my 31mm, 34mm, and Jumbo cases...

I thought about making a case back once and it was the "Teeth" that put up the stop sign... I made one for an Ubi project once but I put shallow holes in the back for a "pin spanner"...

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I actually had a rep Tudor case back ( from Tudor Date-Day case) that fit the sub case!! I was so pumped so I milled off the "late model" Prince Date engraving, applied he proper engraving, screwed the back on, admired my work and patted myself on the back, turned the watch over and it was no longer running! :black_eye: The case-back was apparently just a few thousandths shallower on the inside and when I cinched it down with the wrench it bent something in the movement. So, I put the 2846 in it that I had originally planned on using, reinstalled the original case-back, glued on the correct pearl-dot, and tossed the 2836 into the "to be fixed" pile...

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