tc670207 Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 I have never liked the green bezel on the Submariner 16610LV but somehow the green grows in me and I like it much better now. Before I begin the review I want to list the problems with the LV Sub I got from my seller. For these LV Subs I'd just call it TC factory direct LV Sub. They are built by my seller's watchmaker, they are made in China, so "factory direct" suits the description the best. First the original bracelet that comes with the LV Sub is bad. What you see in the picture is one of TC 93250 V2 bracelet. The lug width of the factory direct LV Sub is 20.06, TC V2 bracelet SEL width is 20.13 I couldn't fit the SEL onto the case in the beginning. I had to trim the SEL then get it fit. The fitment doesn't look bad at all. The dial indices of 6 and 9 were crooked I had to bent it to alignment with a steel ruler. An easy task but takes extreme focus. I bought 5 TC factory direct LV Subs back and all 5 have the same issues, bad bracelet, bad SEL, and crooked indices at 6 and 9 on the dial. Once getting rid off these ugly factors, the LV Sub actually looks darn good. The crystal on the TC factory direct LV Sub is a 2.0 mm crystal. It's the same crystal I used on the M-series TC Subs. The clarity is not bad at all. People say rep crystal clarity is not as good as gen I think that's just because gen indices reflect much sharper brightness then rep indices. Top is TC factory direct LV Sub; bottom gen Sub without bezel insert. I will talk about the dial print quality later. Let's take a look at the case and crown first. I believe the watch case maker somehow drilled the tube hole too deep. There must be a reason for this I will ask my seller the next time I meet him. Crown guard shape is alright, and from the back one could tell the watch case is very well machined. The back case teeth shape and depth are excellent! TC factory direct LV Sub comes with TC's Date Wheel Overlay. I said somewhere before, there are thousands DWO maker in GD province, only a couple has the right equipment and skill to make a DWO like this. Coolchu made a post about gen crystal height versus bezel insert. The M-series gen does have the most protrude crystal height than other gen series. That feature is on TC factory direct LV Sub as well. The LV bezel insert is far better than the black bezel insert I have. The pearl is of the right shape, there's a clear coating over the lume. It actually looks better than Clark insert with WM pearl combo. The green color of this insert has excellent match to gen. It reflects a yellowish tint at an angle like a gen. I'm impressed by this as I have never seen one rep maker done it right. Now let's check dial print quality. Notice print raised high gloss? Needless to say a gen feature that doesn't exist on other Rolex reps. TC factory direct LV Sub's crown position sits just a tad lower than gen or TC Sub V-series crown position. My theory to this the case maker wanted to make a case could house also 2824 or 2836. The movement inside is a Sellita SW200. There is no stem tension when operation I'd say the case maker did a brilliant job! Thanks for reading! TC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mirkoray Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 When will available? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archierocks Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 nice but i just don't do green lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SalvadorDantes Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Exactly what I'm looking for? Availabllity? Price?keep up the good work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watcher Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 This looks identical to a wm9 v3 with its deep cut guards. Has it got superlume dial and hands? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrari1 Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 (edited) How does this compare to the BK WM9 LV? Sounds quite similar. Edited April 25, 2012 by rrari1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southcoast68 Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Dang Looks like it may be time to sell off some of my collection to be able to get one of these . Great stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneed12 Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 That's a WM9 v3 LV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielv2000 Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 That's a WM9 v3 LV. And with that, the beautiful BK WM9 LV's stock is back up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bklm1234 Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 I posted this on RG already: This one is the same thing as the wm9 v3 LV m serial. The issue of the crown hole area of the case being cut too deep leading to the problem of the crown possibly hitting the bezel can be remedied by: 1. not pressing the bezel assembly to tight to the case. With the bezel riding higher, the crown won't hit it. Of course the gap between the bezel and the case is more/wider OR 2. re-install the tube but don't screw it all the way tight to leave a gap so the crown is farther away from the bezel. I prefer this solution. It's still a very good LV. The LV insert and dial are the best components for a 16610LV to date. bk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duke1973 Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 <p>You boys better sell those old WM9's now why you can still get some of your money back! With TC on the scene the WM9's will become pretty easy to source and not rare as "hens teeth" anymore! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Star69 Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 I posted this on RG already: This one is the same thing as the wm9 v3 LV m serial. The issue of the crown hole area of the case being cut too deep leading to the problem of the crown possibly hitting the bezel can be remedied by: 1. not pressing the bezel assembly to tight to the case. With the bezel riding higher, the crown won't hit it. Of course the gap between the bezel and the case is more/wider OR 2. re-install the tube but don't screw it all the way tight to leave a gap so the crown is farther away from the bezel. I prefer this solution. It's still a very good LV. The LV insert and dial are the best components for a 16610LV to date. bk option 1 will look shitty anybody tried option 2 ? did you use epoxy to secure the tube ? will it be still waterproofed ? interesting option - worth a try Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SalvadorDantes Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 does anyone have any ideas as to price and availability. I am dying for an lv! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneed12 Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 I would imagine it makes more sense to put these guts and insert into a TC/WM9 v4 case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watcher Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 Price is up guys. It would be great in a v4 case. Hopefully George(wm9) may one day begin the sd project once more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrari1 Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 Ah, so the BK sub is an upgraded version of this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w.genzo Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 I would imagine it makes more sense to put these guts and insert into a TC/WM9 v4 case. Actually SEL's gap are far better and I definitely prefer this solution. Tube's issue is an easy fix, and crown's height is not noticeable if not side by side with a gen. That's why I did not buy a TC/WM9 v4 case but I will go for this one, when the DWO v2 and the new bracelet v3 will be ready Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giobo Posted April 27, 2012 Report Share Posted April 27, 2012 option 1 will look shitty anybody tried option 2 ? did you use epoxy to secure the tube ? will it be still waterproofed ? interesting option - worth a try Agree with it..How do we do this??It seems that if it not tight in the case it will be popped out .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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