urbanshogun Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 Hey, I had this 1680 case laying around from a narikaa special I broke and I decided to take the dremel to it. what are some criticisms/what is wrong with it? I think the lugholes are too big as I didn't measure the drill bit. CG I am not sure about. when my polishing bits arrive though it should begin to look respectable. cheers, -U Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 Are you going to fit solid lug bars? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbanshogun Posted May 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 I'm not sure I'm going to do anything with the case. I don't have a dial, movement, hands or crystal, I just wanted some experience on a cheap case. I tried to drill it for the 2mm spring bars I thought vintage rollies came with. Which ones came with solid bars? If I can get a hold of a dial and cheapo movement I might try to assemble something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 The "2 mm" springbars require about a 1.2mm hole. These holes may be a hair too big for the solid bars as well as they are around 1.75mm, or so, IIRC. But, it's good practice and probably wouldn't be that noticeable on the wrist with NATO strap.! Some of the Milsubs used the solid bars... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Star69 Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 well ... better luck next time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxrAndy Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 OMG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbanshogun Posted May 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 OMG Hehe it's that bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxrAndy Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 Sorry but yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbanshogun Posted May 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 (edited) Sorry but yesWhere Are the bad areas and how can I improve for next time? Apart from the giant lug holes of course. Edited May 1, 2012 by urbanshogun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxrAndy Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 mesure your drill! remove the tube compare to gens and what the hell happened to the rehaut the big dent in it at 7, did you just smash the glass off???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbanshogun Posted May 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 mesure your drill! remove the tube compare to gens and what the hell happened to the rehaut the big dent in it at 7, did you just smash the glass off???? Thanks, I don't know if all the pics worked for you but I did remove the tube after I realised how to do it! The dent is from the coin in the bag vintage method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mapman57 Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 The dent is from the coin in the bag vintage method. Congratulations on 'having a go'.........I remember the first time also. It appears that you have taken quite a 'literal' approach to one, or two reknown ageing/modding techniques. The coin in the bag treatment is/was intended for the external surfaces of the watch only I suspect your drill bit was indeed a 2mm bit? But again, great start and looking forward to seeing what you do with your new 'polishing bits' when they arrive we all start somewhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbanshogun Posted May 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 Congratulations on 'having a go'.........I remember the first time also. It appears that you have taken quite a 'literal' approach to one, or two reknown ageing/modding techniques. The coin in the bag treatment is/was intended for the external surfaces of the watch only I suspect your drill bit was indeed a 2mm bit? Thanks, I believe it was a 2mm bit. I really should have checked what size the hole should be and not the actual bars. If I ever do more drilling I will forever remember 1.2mm is the magic number! Oh well, tonight I will try to make some solid bars from a wire coat hanger and a soldering iron! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 1.2mm is the magic number! 1.25mm - 1.30mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbanshogun Posted May 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 I thought you guys might be interested in the result! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woof* Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 Well done! Your on your way to a 5517! That came out good. Wire coat hanger? Oh yeah.. there's a nos 5517 bezel and insert in VRM for 10k if your interested Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Star69 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 great ! you saved it ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbanshogun Posted May 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 Well done! Your on your way to a 5517! That came out good. Wire coat hanger? Oh yeah.. there's a nos 5517 bezel and insert in VRM for 10k if your interested Yup, just a small section of a hanger. I even took it from the middle so it is still functional! I have a 5512 dial and handset incoming, but I'm afraid this watch will never be accurate to any sort of gen. I can't decide whether I'm going to leave it as an inaccurate rep or just custom paint the dial to remove the Rolex mark and use it as a beater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiyal Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 who cares if its accurate, YOU-built it ! Keep it up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer80 Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 who cares if its accurate, YOU-built it ! Keep it up! +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 who cares if its accurate, YOU-built it ! Keep it up! i think most people here do, or why even come here. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionsandtigers Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 I would say next time avoid the dremel and do the CG's and case work with a set of fine files, some good reference material, and patience. You can take much less of when doing it slowly by hand. Dremels can't destroy your case very easily and quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbanshogun Posted May 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 (edited) Thanks for all the encouragement guys! I think I am going to remove the <acronym title='Crown Guard'>CG</acronym> as they are FUBAR and I'm going to get a big crown and faded lv insert. I will try to paint the dial with a camo pattern similar to the Nigel cabourn spring summer 2012 stuff and paint the hands white for legibility. Edited May 4, 2012 by urbanshogun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EEngels Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 The important thing to remember is, it's your watch. You built it. You get to make it to your taste. Others can approve or disapprove of the quality of your work, but their disapproval of your taste doesn't matter. I think you did a good job recovering from the over-drill error. Removing the CG and going big crown (or even small crown - not every Rolex used the big crown, after all) will go a long way to making it nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloyd Posted May 5, 2012 Report Share Posted May 5, 2012 I would get some stainless rod for the bars instead of the coat hangers. They will rust and ruin everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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