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1st case mod attempt (1680)


urbanshogun

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Hey, I had this 1680 case laying around from a narikaa special I broke and I decided to take the dremel to it.

what are some criticisms/what is wrong with it?

I think the lugholes are too big as I didn't measure the drill bit.

CG I am not sure about.

when my polishing bits arrive though it should begin to look respectable.

cheers,

-U

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I'm not sure I'm going to do anything with the case. I don't have a dial, movement, hands or crystal, I just wanted some experience on a cheap case.

I tried to drill it for the 2mm spring bars I thought vintage rollies came with.

Which ones came with solid bars? If I can get a hold of a dial and cheapo movement I might try to assemble something.

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The "2 mm" springbars require about a 1.2mm hole. These holes may be a hair too big for the solid bars as well as they are around 1.75mm, or so, IIRC. But, it's good practice and probably wouldn't be that noticeable on the wrist with NATO strap.!

Some of the Milsubs used the solid bars...

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mesure your drill!

remove the tube

compare to gens

and what the hell happened to the rehaut

the big dent in it at 7, did you just smash the glass off????

Thanks, I don't know if all the pics worked for you but I did remove the tube after I realised how to do it!

The dent is from the coin in the bag vintage method.

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The dent is from the coin in the bag vintage method.

Congratulations on 'having a go'.........I remember the first time also.

It appears that you have taken quite a 'literal' approach to one, or two reknown ageing/modding techniques. The coin in the bag treatment is/was intended for the external surfaces of the watch only :) I suspect your drill bit was indeed a 2mm bit?

But again, great start and looking forward to seeing what you do with your new 'polishing bits' when they arrive ;) we all start somewhere :clap2:

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Congratulations on 'having a go'.........I remember the first time also.

It appears that you have taken quite a 'literal' approach to one, or two reknown ageing/modding techniques. The coin in the bag treatment is/was intended for the external surfaces of the watch only :) I suspect your drill bit was indeed a 2mm bit?

Thanks,

I believe it was a 2mm bit. I really should have checked what size the hole should be and not the actual bars. If I ever do more drilling I will forever remember 1.2mm is the magic number!

Oh well, tonight I will try to make some solid bars from a wire coat hanger and a soldering iron!

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Well done!

Your on your way to a 5517! That came out good. Wire coat hanger?

Oh yeah.. there's a nos 5517 bezel and insert in VRM for 10k if your interested :)

Yup, just a small section of a hanger. I even took it from the middle so it is still functional!

I have a 5512 dial and handset incoming, but I'm afraid this watch will never be accurate to any sort of gen.

I can't decide whether I'm going to leave it as an inaccurate rep or just custom paint the dial to remove the Rolex mark and use it as a beater.

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Thanks for all the encouragement guys!

I think I am going to remove the <acronym title='Crown Guard'>CG</acronym> as they are FUBAR and I'm going to get a big crown and faded lv insert.

I will try to paint the dial with a camo pattern similar to the Nigel cabourn spring summer 2012 stuff and paint the hands white for legibility.

WMJEK.jpg

Edited by urbanshogun
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The important thing to remember is, it's your watch.

You built it. You get to make it to your taste.

Others can approve or disapprove of the quality of your work, but their disapproval of your taste doesn't matter.

I think you did a good job recovering from the over-drill error. Removing the CG and going big crown (or even small crown - not every Rolex used the big crown, after all) will go a long way to making it nice.

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