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AP Movement Reliability


51NGH

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Guys

 

What is the deal with the movement in APs? I am reading conflicting threads and thought everyone would like some clarification.

 

I just got my first AP Chronopassion and the chorno function didn't work on arrive. The TD has been amazing and is sorting it all out for me, but I want to know if I can expect problems with this movement going forward?

 

Would be rather sad to be wearing an AP and see it stop/break when dishing out over $500 for one!

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they snap back so violently they sometimes snap the oscalating pinnion and the chronos stop function..

Absolutely none sense. The osicilation pinion can't be engaged when the chrono cam is in reset mode. Therefor resetting does not influence it any way.

The movement is reliable except for the extra aded second transfer gears (to transfer the seconds from 9 to 12). There are some tricks to make this modification reliable though.

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Absolutely none sense. The osicilation pinion can't be engaged when the chrono cam is in reset mode. Therefor resetting does not influence it any way.

The movement is reliable except for the extra aded second transfer gears (to transfer the seconds from 9 to 12). There are some tricks to make this modification reliable though.

Any chance of sharing the trick :p

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Hit or miss methinks.....I bought a Safari with the newer modified @12 movement (I think they say it's got an extra jewel or something)....it ran Ok for 3 weeks or so and then started slowing down....so now I've got no choice but send it for servicing....After servicing though, I am hoping it'd be a stellar movement....

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There are two type of rep AP ROO movements out there: 1) the older ones where the 12 o'clock running seconds gear rests on bare metal. 2) the new one where they finally put a jewel on the plate 

 

Obviously the older models were a problem due to friction so a few modders used to offer a service that was basically putting a graphite powder on the plate to reduce friction. That was a double edge sword since you really don't want powder floating around your engine.

 

http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/113958-improving-the-reliability-of-ap-seconds-at-12-movement/

 

The new version seems to be very reliable but it's still the good old A7750 under the covers so if you are experiencing issues (slowing down, hands not resetting, etc.) get it serviced.

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I have no experienced with the jeweled version, but the 4 older models I have all sucked. I had them serviced and graphite, but it did not last for long.

I'm thinking of freezing the sec@12, but not yet!

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To be brutally honest I stay well clear of any movement modded away from its original design. Add complications and you add chances of it going wrong Same problems with the IWC Portuguese and the Rolex Daytona an they all involve a movement where the runnin seconds have been moved from its intended location to another area

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To be brutally honest I stay well clear of any movement modded away from its original design. Add complications and you add chances of it going wrong

Same problems with the IWC Portuguese and the Rolex Daytona an they all involve a movement where the runnin seconds have been moved from its intended location to another area

Oooooh shoot!!!!!! It's that bad? I fell in love and now I can't get what I want.......... Edited by Ketjap Manis
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To be brutally honest I stay well clear of any movement modded away from its original design. Add complications and you add chances of it going wrong Same problems with the IWC Portuguese and the Rolex Daytona an they all involve a movement where the runnin seconds have been moved from its intended location to another area

 

The AP modification with the jewel has nothing to do with the issues we find with the Portuguese or the Daytona. The tri-compax sec@6 on the Daytona is a much harder modifications for the 7750 than sec@12. I have no idea why they can't just fix the Portuguese though.

 

With the new AP movements I haven't seen any issues at all.

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  • 3 weeks later...
To be brutally honest I stay well clear of any movement modded away from its original design. Add complications and you add chances of it going wrong Same problems with the IWC Portuguese and the Rolex Daytona an they all involve a movement where the runnin seconds have been moved from its intended location to another area

 

On the other hand, it's worth noting that the gen of the Portuguese uses the exact same hack on the exact same base movement. IWC does a much better job of it and jewels everything, of course, but the IWC 79350 is essentially just a regular 7750 with a transfer plate.

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I've got 4 ROO's, and the only thing I've done is never keep them on a winder. I wear them for a day or two and put them away for a  month or so -- they seem to do best when worn for limited duration. They definitely need a little more planning than the average rep, but then again, they are worth it:)

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I've got 4 ROO's, and the only thing I've done is never keep them on a winder. I wear them for a day or two and put them away for a month or so -- they seem to do best when worn for limited duration. They definitely need a little more planning than the average rep, but then again, they are worth it:)
Makes sense. You'd be crazy to put a sec @ 12 or sec @ 6 7750 on a winder, just puts constant stress and wear on its most vulnerable points.
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  • 2 weeks later...

It is very practical that there is a topic about the movements as I seem to have a problem with one of mine. Can anyone tell me what is wrong with it? It works by shaking or winding but only lasts for 4-5 minutes then stops. I imagine this has to do with the power reserve, but I already sent a message to UWE to see if he can fix it, but whilst waiting to hear back from him I would appreciate some advice, is it an easy fix, or should I leave it for a pro. I would also like to mention that even after winding it 35 times it still only works for 4-5 minutes.

Thanks in advance

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It is very practical that there is a topic about the movements as I seem to have a problem with one of mine. Can anyone tell me what is wrong with it? It works by shaking or winding but only lasts for 4-5 minutes then stops. I imagine this has to do with the power reserve, but I already sent a message to UWE to see if he can fix it, but whilst waiting to hear back from him I would appreciate some advice, is it an easy fix, or should I leave it for a pro. I would also like to mention that even after winding it 35 times it still only works for 4-5 minutes.

Thanks in advance

 

First thing, you should never manually wind a 7750 movement. Not sure who told you to do it. 

 

I'm not sure what model you have so it's very hard to know. It could be a number of things from dirt, to lack of oils to a busted mainspring. Whatever the issue is nothing with a 7750 is an easy fix. Send to Uwe.

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