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1016 on Bracelet or Leather


Ronin

Keep 7206 on 1016 or Not  

17 members have voted

  1. 1. Should I stick with Steel or Go Back to Leather?

    • Steel C&I 7206 Bracelet
    • Genuine Tegu Lizard Leather Strap
    • Install 9315 w/558 endlinks


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So, I have a dilemma.

 

I finally installed the C&I 7206 bracelet, with minimal stretch for its age, on my 1016 project (Project: http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/151625-1016-wip-almost-fin/).

 

I then received an offer of $750 from an acquaintance who wants to buy the bracelet from me.  I am on the fence.  I don't need the money, but I am also luke-warm on the "fit" (primarily endlinks).  I also need to remove a link (which is no big deal, I have a tool that makes quick work of R&Ring these links).

 

Finally, I could install a 9315 w/558 end-links (558 are the correct link for the 160x case).  This would proved the best bracelet fit, but I loose the rivets.  It does fit the "Service Theme"

 

Photos to help with decision.

 

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iAVAPSB5fDMCy.jpg

 

iMQpsfDOIoGY0.jpg

 

ibu6V92My5AapD.jpg

 

ibgpujbCkwklly.jpg

 

ibznh5oggy3Ccx.jpg

 

i4kPlic3jlHYQ.jpg

 

ibatIXta641AkB.jpg

 

ibh3OMbgdxNy1K.jpg

 

iPGjIfrSk4Dfq.jpg

 

On the Fence...

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Definitely the bracelet. What's C&I?

 

C&I were the USA Market 7206.  Key differences are the clasp is a bit larger, and lack the Steelinox marking, etc.  Also, the Rivets have dimples in the tops of them.

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Personally I don't like the 1016-leather combo, doesn't work for me since the Explorer is the pure toolwatch.

Over all I don't like the 7206 that much and I think I would put a 7836 or 78360 on it. Imho it would be more correct since you have a service dial.

I would sell the 7206 and get a nice 7836/78360 instead and you have probably a bit money left as well.

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Personally I don't like the 1016-leather combo, doesn't work for me since the Explorer is the pure toolwatch.

Over all I don't like the 7206 that much and I think I would put a 7836 or 78360 on it. Imho it would be more correct since you have a service dial.

I would sell the 7206 and get a nice 7836/78360 instead and you have probably a bit money left as well.

 

I have to say, you make some excellent points.  Thus, my 3rd choice.  While the 7836x is the correct, non-safety clasp counterpart to the 9315x, I have a MINT 9315 sitting in my safe.  With the correct endlinks (558) for this DJ 160x case, it could be the perfect mash-up for a 40+year old watch.  (I am not a purest, and matching a 783x vs 9315x is a plausible real world scenario).

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You mentioned "I have a tool that makes quick work of R&Ring these links" could you share a pic with the forum? I'm sure there are others here that would like to make "quick work" of adding and replacing the links on these Vintage Rolex USA C⚜I* Rivet Oyster Bracelet's as well as the Swiss made counterparts.
*The mark between the C and I is named a Fleur de Lis (flower of the lily) which is of French origin and in auction's it is replaced with a plus (+) sign,erroneously.

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I have to say, you make some excellent points.  Thus, my 3rd choice.  While the 7836x is the correct, non-safety clasp counterpart to the 9315x, I have a MINT 9315 sitting in my safe.  With the correct endlinks (558) for this DJ 160x case, it could be the perfect mash-up for a 40+year old watch.  (I am not a purest, and matching a 783x vs 9315x is a plausible real world scenario).

 

Hi Ronin,

totally understand. To be honest I'll do the same and wear my 1016 on a 93150 (78360 with 93150 clasp) I want that extra bit of "safety". And it's not uncommon, when you ordered a Explorer back then it was possible to get it with a Fliplock clasp.

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