H-Factory PAM 089E GMT Anthracite review

[PolonusTM]

PAM 089E

 

I got this watch from Joshua / Perfect Clones, being probably the first or second person ordering it Pam GMT, titanium and anthracite dial - enough for me

 

Info about GEN 089E:

 

 

TimeKeeperss comment:

 

"The PAM89 44mm titanium GMT was made for D, E, F and G series in very limited quantities. The PAM89 was always a hot watch in short supply among authorized dealers and independent watch dealers alike. Most collectors simply refuse to part with their PAM89 titanium GMT and for that reason, there are not many of these available in the secondary marketplace.

 

The PAM 89 44mm titanium GMT has a completely brushed/satin finished look with no shiny parts anywhere on the case, bezel or crown protector. What makes the PAM89 standout is the silky anthracite (fancy name for charcoal) dial with jet black sub seconds dial at 9:00. The anthracite dial is chameleon-like; many people would swear it is blue while others think it is black. In reality it is a smoky grey that depending on the clothes you are wearing or the light that is shining on it, it takes on the appearance of its surroundings. This is a classic and desirable Panerai watch that is available in very short supply and is becoming increasingly harder to find in the secondary market.

 

THIS IS ALSO BILL CLINTON'S PANERAI OF CHOICE - THERE ARE MANY PHOTOS OF WILLIAM JEFFERSON CIRCULATING ON THE INTERNET WITH HIS FAVORITE 89!!!"

 

Interesting. Bill and his 089.

 

…back to the rep:

 

Movement

 

Asian 7750 with GMT module as per gen (which means it uses day wheel to move 24h GMT arm). When You pull the crown to the first position, rotating in one direction quickly set date while in other direction - jump-move GMT hand. It is my third watch based on A7750 GMT from H-maker - no problems so far. Seems A7750 GMT is exclusive for H-factory while i.e. A7753 is exclusive for Noob.

 

Anthracite dial

 

Anthracite is a type of mineral coal. Look here Anthracite - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia . 

I personally do not believe Panerai used real anthracite for their dials. To me it is more like fashion way of calling the color/effect combination as "anthracite". I allowed myself to quote aladin_sane/WUS on this matter: "(…) it is highly unlikely that anyone is using coal as a dial material for a couple of reasons. First, coal, even anthracite, is very soft, and friable. I don't think it would machine well or stand up to shock. Second coal is full of volatile materials. If you took slice of anthracite and encased it under a watch crystal, in a short time, the heat of the sun would vaporize some of the organic material or even water that is present in the coal and it would fog the crystal." 

 

Can You even imagine cutting out subdial or date window in such a brittle material? Or.. solder the dial feet in place, and watch it burn? (I know I know - just joking)

 

So what is it? Anodized / vertically brushed aluminum? Maybe… Does it react to light as gen on various photos? Yes, it does! However making photo of vertical brushed lines is a pita with artificial light.

 

Hands and lume

 

Hands are perfect as known from previous H-factory GMT releases (237 & 088). Polished Cannon Pin - in my experience you can pull or push minute hand on the pin to adjust surfaces to the same level.

 

Crown Guard

 

 

CG internal edges are not sharp 90º angled corners. They are not even round, they look like three surfaces combined to make into a corner so I bet it was made by a machining process of broaching. Why broaching? Because CG internal corners are even more dull that on SS version of H-factory CGs, which is normal when broaching harder materials like titanium. You want to avoid 90º corners when broaching hard materials because the tool (broach) becomes dull too fast. The tool is probably custom made for H-factory replications, maybe they have two of them: one for SS and one for titanium (less pronounced corners). Why do I think they do this machining by broaching? Because broach is an expensive to make custom cutting tool. Easy 10-15 USD grands for one. Really. That's why they cannot just "sharpen" internal corners despite all our loud talking - the tools are too expensive to just forget about them. I guess Noob factory does the same job by CNC milling. More expensive, I guess - but gives you sharp corners.

 

example broaching tools:

 

Coming back to overall CG shape when comparing with gen: it is a bit different, but maybe can be recognized as variation in production as well. The arc of top surface of CG is a bit bigger on rep than on a gen (whoa… that was nitpicking at full speed!) Anyway, it is visible on the watch when looking from CG side. One-glance-to-know-its-a-rep is possible

 

 

Titanium case-set

 

 

Well, it looks pretty much the same as case-set for PAM 240J. Good, satin brushed surfaces, dull in look etc.

 

 

But when looking on gen to rep photos kindly presented by Joshua on PC site, I found that there is something wrong in lug shapes… maybe the angles of as photos were taken… but no.. I did quick overlay job in PS and here is the result:

 

 

But guess what..  The lugs shape CHANGED on the gen: the gen E-series are having lower top of lugs while F-series of 089 have the same shape as from H-factory! Look:

 

 

The top of gen CG is more flat than the rep CG anyway, regardless series…

 

So… when someone knows about the lug shapes in connection to E and F series - he can prooobaaaablyyy spot the lug shape difference when handling the rep directly. But on Your wrist - never.

 

FINAL CONCLUSIONS

 

pros:

- they got the anthracite dial RIGHT

- sapphire with polished internal side walls of date loupe

- GMT mod of A7750 is already proven one and works well

- superlume

- titanium caseset is nicely machined

- nice strap in case of this version of watch bundle

 

cons:

- wrong CG shape

- wrong lugs profile for E-series but correct for F-series so no problem on a wrist

- price… but prices are slowly getting higher and higher

 

Possible modding: source Noob factory titanium CG… but the lever has a roller which is wrong for 089E… so maybe H-factory titanium lever will fit Noob CG?

 

As a watch: it is amazing! Anthracite dial makes it! Look very elegant / tasteful in combo with titanium case-set.

 

Super Rep? With correct CG it would be easily Super Rep, hands down. Now it is between First Class and Super Rep in my opinion.

 

 

And HD Video:

[atomic_doug]

Great review/pictorial on a model and dial color that doesn't get nearly enough praise.

 

I didn't know that Panerai changed the lug shape on their own things in between model years.  They must have changed who they sub-contracted the case construction out to.

[StormTooper4]

My word that's a spectacular review. Thank you for the comparisons and the big effort

[panermaniac]

Thanks for this, it's a great read!

[Ricardo L]

I just put this watch on my wish list .. thanks for the post.

[lfovco]

That is a really, really great review. Thanks a lot for putting it together. Looks like a great watch to get.

[Mapman57]

Superb review P, many thanks.

Is that grey strap the rep leather it was supplied with? Also looks really nice.

[FxrAndy]

Mine is in the post already <br />You stole my thunder with your great review but thanks for doing it and now I am looking forward to the watch even more

[Cats]

Great review thanks for posting it.

I think a have a new item for my wish list .

@Andy

Looking forward to your opinion on this beauty Andy.

Carpe Diem

Cats

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[greekgod]

wooooooooooooooooooow ....excellent review 

[Inertiadrifter]

Awesome review!!

Should we contact a trusted dealer who is close with the H factory (josh or Andrew) and ask them to build an F series case back,

Then we have a more "GEN" like 089

Like what they did with the "challenge" fiasco!!

[loupeso]

is this the new 89 version ? 

[PolonusTM]

Yes, it is the new one.

Sent from an iPad / Tapatalk HD

[greekgod]

SO would you recommend the watch? I  really like it but having OCD I am a bit skeptical. Also is that a Gen leather strap on the watch?

 

Thanks again for an excellent review and pics...

 

 

OH MORE PICS PLZZZ!!  

[PolonusTM]

The strap is a rep. It is bundled together with the watch.

Of course I can recommend the watch! Flaws are very minimal and for nitpickers

Sent from an iPad / Tapatalk HD

Edited April 14, 2013 by PolonusTM

[greekgod]

Thanks very much for the extra pic mate...I cant decided with strap tp get it with..For a rep strap it looks very good. What are your thoughts on the strap?

 

Also I was thinking with a shark skin strap would look like on this. I saw a guy wearing this watch and it looked really nice.

[sgtguk]

Cracking review, amazing looking dial and just gotta love that strap combo too     Good on ya enjoy it !

[martijnp]

Stunning watch and a great review. Good work! And what a stunning watch/strap combination! Wear it in good health

[Legend]

Thank you for the very detailed and painstaking review!

[jonbummer78]

nice write up with great details and pics.

this will go on top ahead of 237, the Ghost for me

[Archetypal]

Fantastic attention to the details - you really have the curse!

 

Great review, lovely watch. Thank you very much indeed sir.

 

Keep them coming.

[FxrAndy]

Still waiting for mine (it may be at home but i am not)

[FxrAndy]

I just saw that Precious time has this now listed so a great place to buy for all the EU members<br />http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/158327-model-panerai-pam089e-gmt-titanium-antracite/<br />And it may mean that mine I on the way:)

[Ricardo L]

dang - i blame you guys for costing me some money .. 

 

I could not help myself, i kept on coming back to this post and looking at the awesome photos -- I placed my order today for this watch .. 

[age]

Is Precious times pam 089e superlumed?