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Help with 1675 parts.


kitkat1305

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Hello

 

First of all, thanks to everyone that contributes to this forum.  I have been checking out posts, researching and fawning over a lot of Rolex reps on this forum for a few months now and the information here has been invaluable.

 

Recently I started my first modding project (ageing a Rolex 1675 bought from Kingwatch)  To my surprise, everything has gone to plan and I am really happy with how the watch has turned out.

 

To fade the insert I tried all sorts of techniques (Bleaching, dipping in acetone, UV light) Unfortunately none of this made the slightest difference to the pepsi insert.  I tried buffing with a dremel and brasso and ended up getting a really nice look.  I didn't want to over do it too much so I stopped and re-assembled the watch. A few hours later I thought I might do a little bit more to the insert.  Unfortunately I didn't take the besel of the watch before I did this and I have caught the crystal ever so slightly with the dremel.

 

Im not sure if the crystal is as accurate as it could be anyway as I have seen some other reps on here where the crystal seems quite high.  Would any of you knowledgeable folk be able to point me in the direction of which is the most accurate crystal for a 1675 and where I can get this?

 

Many thanks,
 

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Startime supply makes a very nice 116 crystal for a very reasonable price - you can get a temp 2 week account with no questions asked (also, if you place a big enough order your first time around, say > $200, you'll get a permanent account - worked for me).  Gens can be had for around $50-$75 (check fleabay)...  I have a gen with a couple of cracks (still air tight) I am happy to let you have on the cheap

 

Regarding fading the bezel insert, my technique (which I have used on gen and rep inserts, 1675s included) is to make a weak lye and water bath (stir about 1/2 tsp into 2oz water), tie some thread around the insert (so you can pull it out quickly) - the clear coat on the top will come off slowly, then the color will start to fade REALLY FAST (depending on your concentration of lye - practice on a cheapie insert first with your solution, watch the clock)... You probably want to stop before the color actually starts to fade (it will continue after you pull it out - there's no harm in pulling it and putting it back in), then immediately rinse thoroughly - taking a towel or sponge to it will rub off more color - I do this gently and evenly... What you're left with has the right color, but the finish will look off... Spray it with some glossy acrylic sealer and it'll look as close to a real aged insert as I've ever seen.

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dutchguy has a good point - unless your case is gen-spec, which it likely isn't, a gen crystal will likely be too small.  If you don't have a digital caliper, get one, then get the diameter of your dial opening (there's a name for it I'm sure) and also measure how far from the edge the center of your date window is, and we should be able to help you find something appropriate

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A 116 crystal is about 28.85mm id and 30.25mm od but this is measuring a loose ST aftmkt crystal. What is needed is a measurement of a genuine case neck, od of a mounted genuine crystal, and id of a genuine bezel in order to find what oem specs are. I have a genuine 1675 that needs c/o and may not change the crystal when it is apart but if I do I will post the measurements in a new thread. It may be a while because I have been putting it off for a few years until I have a buyer for it.

 

Also have a replica 1655 and 1675 and the 1655 is basically a vintage submariner case. Do not know what the 1675 case is. The 1655 case was all out of whack with a 127 type crystal and the bezel glued on over it. Never had the GMT apart. They both are from about 10 years ago and had new swiss Etas but they really took shortcuts on the cases. The 1655 cases today are much better from what I have seen.

 

40 minutes later...

I dug the Swiss Eta 2836 '1675' out and it is still wrapped in plastic and dated November 2005. It is in a 1680 type case/submariner bracelet with a lightly yellowed marker GMT dial with 'oyster perpetual date' at the top. The crown is 6.0mm and the red/blue bezel turns both ways. It is not correct at all but still about as close as many projects turn out to be after spending a wad of $$.

 

Also found eight new in plastic wrap swiss Eta sapphire GMT including two 'noobs' (F520117 cases) and a couple with 'shitinerand' case backs plus 2 swiss Eta YM and one 'cream dial' Exp II sapphire with lug holes.

I put all this stuff away years ago and forgot about it. Now it looks like I have accumulated a connoisseur's collection of classic fakes'!   :euro:

That's a hell of a claim to fame. Ha!    :pimp:

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I have a gen 1675 PCG from 1960 - happy to give measurements and detailed photos of any and all parts.

 

Automatico - if you're ever getting rid of any of that stuff............

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Tmd...

Measurements of the case neck od and bezel id would be nice along with od of a crystal mounted on the case neck. Maybe start a sticky with all the measurements from genuine watches of different models.

 

I do not know what I will do with this 'collection' of replica stuff yet. I am trying to get most of my genuine rolex watches running so I can sell them and am way behind. I thought about holding on to the swiss Eta movements and see what takes place after swatch really clamps down in 2016.

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Thanks very much everybody - really useful stuff.  Had a bit of a nightmare yesterday as I wore the watch for the first time and found out its loosing about 10mins every hour!  Nightmare.  I now have a nice aged rep that looks great but doesn't work as a watch.  Think I may have to get a new movement before the crystal!!!

 

Thanks again.

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