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New 15400 on trusty


denimhead

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The screws look very bad. Stay away until they address this issue!

 

 

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Can someone please explain what it is about the screws that look do bad? I looked closely at the screws both on top and bottom of the bezel and this untrained eye doesn't  see anything wrong.

thx!

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I suppose Legend refers to the back of the case, not the front. And I must agree. This looks awful.

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I am in no way an expert especially when it comes to AP. However in this case it is just a thing of pure esthetics. Screws should be flush and centered in their screw holes. If you look at the case back the screws then to either lean to right or left of the hole. Also the holes in general seem to be too large for the screws and frayed. Having said that after having a longer look at the pictures it could also be the case that the lightning and the shadows add to the overall impression.

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Can someone please explain what it is about the screws that look do bad? I looked closely at the screws both on top and bottom of the bezel and this untrained eye doesn't  see anything wrong.

thx!

First, I was referring to the bezel screws actually. The gen screws, if you have seen them, sit perfectly aligned in their slots around the bezel, without gaps, and slightly recessed. The edges and points of each screw would align perfectly, or at least very well with the slot.The top profile of each screw is even and flat, and polished to a perfect finish in the genuine watch.

We can not realistically expect the same fit and finish in the rep of course, but when I tell you that the fit is bad, at least for the specimen shown in the pic, it means it really is bad, as I am more forgiving than the others in such details.

The good news is, yes the screws can be modded by those who know how. Its just that I would expect the factory release to be somewhat better.

 

 

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I see your point on the bezel screws. It is as if the pots are slightly too large for the screw heads. I did not catch that until now.  Also, the caseback screws look off too. I think there should be uniformity in the depth. Again, this could be just a poor early sample. Hard to say. 

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I see your point on the bezel screws. It is as if the pots are slightly too large for the screw heads. I did not catch that until now.  Also, the caseback screws look off too. I think there should be uniformity in the depth. Again, this could be just a poor early sample. Hard to say. 

Actually I would say that the slots are too big, and the screws are not cut well enough. But the gaps are really unsightly, and since the screws form a significant part of the look of a 15400, I would say that it looks unacceptable in this case.

It could be just that particular watch though.. 

I suppose Legend refers to the back of the case, not the front. And I must agree. This looks awful.

Yes and that too... ;)

I am in no way an expert especially when it comes to AP. However in this case it is just a thing of pure esthetics. Screws should be flush and centered in their screw holes. If you look at the case back the screws then to either lean to right or left of the hole. Also the holes in general seem to be too large for the screws and frayed. Having said that after having a longer look at the pictures it could also be the case that the lightning and the shadows add to the overall impression.

Again, correct. The screw fitment is just horrendous, and the screws themselves look cheap and off.. To me, case back screw flaws are more forgivable obviously but the ones on the bezel are pure ugliness.

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Btw does anyone know if its possible to machine down the thick case?

The thickness of the case is usually calculated to accommodate the movement within as you well know. Technically, it is of course possible to shave or mill the case; that is the norm when building ROO frankens. The question is, if there is sufficient clearance for the movement after thinning the case/caseback.

 

 

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The thickness of the case is usually calculated to accommodate the movement within as you well know. Technically, it is of course possible to shave or mill the case; that is the norm when building ROO frankens. The question is, if there is sufficient clearance for the movement after thinning the case/caseback.

 

 

Thx! Do you think the double AR mod is also nessesary?

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Thx! Do you think the double AR mod is also nessesary?

The double AR mod would accentuate the details of the dial. So yes, if dial details are reasonably good.

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It's unfortunately too thick. For me that's a no-go on a slim watch like this. I still think that the TF is the best 15400..

You're right bro the RO is designed to be a sleek dress watch. Unfortunately there is no perfect rep of the RO yet. All versions got their own flaws but currently, among them all, the TF has the best dial in my opinion, and even that is flawed. The watch looks so simple and basic but none of the factories released an acceptable rep in my opinion.

So yes bro stick to what you already own. I think it's about how you wear it. And you're doing a good job doing so. ;)

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  • 3 weeks later...

I spent a bit more time analyzing photos from intime.co and Toro vs. eBay genuine models. In particular, the white dial version since that is what I want to acquire.

JF (J Factory): the date wheel font is 100% off, the location of the screws on the clasp is incorrect, the tapisserie cubes are too small, case 1mm too thick. For $378 I think there are too many flaws. The most redeeming aspect is the movement engraving which is quite nice....if that is the most important thing to you.

For $328 the TF (T Factory) is the better option.  I would argue it is the best currently available.

I am squarely in the Martijn and Legend camp on this model. As such, I ordered a fresh, new white dial TF version from Toro this week.  I'll be sure to snap a few micro shots for this thread when it arrives.

Edited by mule play
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