watchnutz Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 So im slightly noobish to replicas, I've owned a lot of gen stuff and still have some.... With that said I'd like to start making my own 1675 gmt. My most expensive gens are all within the 2000 usd and under mark so springing for 3/4 times that is just not in my balls. Anyway I'd love to know where to get a decent out of the box 1675 to start with and grow, possibly adding a gen dial and insert along the way. Is there a go to dealer for GMT's? This is a vintage build and I have no interest in modern gmt builds. Ideally I'd like something that i can enjoy right away and mod as time goes by. The one thing it must have is proper bezel coin edge, as i see a few places have decent dials but bezel cuts are all wrong. secondly would be decent dial, nothing fantastic but pre-aged yellowness would be lovely and eliminate some hard work. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated. thanks! Looking to make something very similar to these blueburys: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denimhead Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 Sadly there are no good starting point reps for a 1675 build, you can use the cartel 1655 explorer case but you will need to take a lot of metal off the outer edges of the CG's to get it remotely like the Gen and the case is too thick as well. I have spoken to the Cartel boys and asked if they would consider a good 1657/1655 rep so we will see. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Champagnesky Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 Sadly there are no good starting point reps for a 1675 build, you can use the cartel 1655 explorer case but you will need to take a lot of metal off the outer edges of the CG's to get it remotely like the Gen and the case is too thick as well. I have spoken to the Cartel boys and asked if they would consider a good 1657/1655 rep so we will see. There are rumors that the cartel are doing an updated 1675. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchnutz Posted May 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 So I guess, besides just waiting a while, whats the next best/worst option? I'm looking to do this within the next few weeks hopefully. The case doesn't have to be perfect, just enough to not stand out too much... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denimhead Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 1 hour ago, watchnutz said: So I guess, besides just waiting a while, whats the next best/worst option? I'm looking to do this within the next few weeks hopefully. The case doesn't have to be perfect, just enough to not stand out too much... If your desperate to make a start, buy the cartel 1655 then swap the bezel for a wso one. Swap the dial out for a yuki or gen,Drill lug holes, perhaps swap plexiglass for gen spec T116. Then remove the 24 hr hand adjustable function so it acts as per gen 1575 movement. You could always do a hybrid 1655-1675 check out my posts regarding this. Hope that helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchnutz Posted May 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 12 hours ago, denimhead said: If your desperate to make a start, buy the cartel 1655 then swap the bezel for a wso one. Swap the dial out for a yuki or gen,Drill lug holes, perhaps swap plexiglass for gen spec T116. Then remove the 24 hr hand adjustable function so it acts as per gen 1575 movement. You could always do a hybrid 1655-1675 check out my posts regarding this. Hope that helps Thanks for the info, I'm having trouble trying to find where to purchase a cartel 1655, any pointers as to good options for a source? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meadowsweet_ Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 In regards to dealers of parts for builds: •"Best"/Most Expensive: Jewelry & Watch/Phong, VintageWatchesMQ/Minh, VintageWatchmaker (Jensen, Phong's son), NDT Trading -- prepare to spend a ton of money for pretty accurate case options that usually are gen spec or accept gen parts, good bezel/insert options and some decent dial options (gilt, long E, etc.; MQ not Phong). If you were in fact actually looking specifically for a coin edge bezel (were you talking about the "regular"/more common style RLX bezel or were you intending on actually fitting a 6542 coin edge style bezel on a 1675?) contact MQ. Phong's PCG cases can be hit or miss but when they're good they're pretty great. Again, prepare to spend a small fortune though. I'd go this route only I f you were trying to go as "all-gen" as possible or intent on using a gen movement. Also, scour the 'bay and VRM for gen service inserts and/or service dials (if you don't mind a service dial or are fine having one re-lumed), you might get lucky and find one decently priced depending on how much you're looking to invest in the build; to wit, black gen inserts seem to typically list for less than pepsis in my experience. •Mid-Range Options: Yuki, Tonnywatches -- I'm sure there's another option or two I'm forgetting. Tonny slings parts on Instagram (gen and rep) and is rumored to maybe use the same supplier as Minh (but at half the price). Pretty nice gilt dials and I'm pretty sure he offers cases but I haven't seen anyone "road test" one of his 1675 cases yet so i can't speak to their quality/finish/parts compatibility. Yuki offers various full-build sets (case, dial, hands, inserts, bezels, etc.), and you could even go budget ETA route with one of his 16710 case sets of you're not hellbent on a 1675 reference specifically. •Last, but certainly not least: As mentioned here by other, more experienced members, the Cartel 1655 makes a great base for a 1675 build as a 5.3mm crown fits the case correctly. Of course, a good measure of modification and parts sourcing is in order (see above options for dials, bezels, etc.) with the 1655, but imvho it is by far the most satisfying way to go about building a (wallet-friendly) 1675 that looks great. Frankly, if I were to consider going the uber-expensive Phong/MQ route, I'd rather just save up a bit more and buy an actual gen 16710 or a "bargain" 1675. But that's just me. The journey of the build is the best part anyways. Even still, it would be really nice to have a nice and thin PCG 1675 right out of the box from cartel, wouldn't it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchnutz Posted May 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Thanks so much for the super detailed reply! I was referring to the coin edge being incorrect on some out of the box options (seems to just be a sub bezel vs a gmt one). I've got a lot of research to do, I've got 15 tabs open on my browser checking out all kinds of options. The most important thing to me is dial, bezel and bezel insert (which I'll most likely put a gen in) and crown guard shape. The case thickness doesn't really bother me as much. If it looks right from the top down, im satisfied. I don't think I'd ever go gen movement, by then I would just save up and go gen if spending that kinda money. I'm looking to do a budget build and mod as I go. Maybe $300-350 to start, and then I'll add on later. Dials seem very good from yuki, though I can't seem to find any 1675 dials with ETA feet.... Which will definitely be my movement. Quick side note, whats the deal with buying a gen dial and cutting off the feet/moving feet.... is this done a lot, any troubles? the hardest thing seems to be finding out the width of the dial vs. width of the case for the dial..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meadowsweet_ Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 As many a member will tell you, if using a gen dial, try to preserve the feet if you can. Retains its value and allows to to upgrade should you ever choose to do so. Yuki's dials have gen-positioned feet but I'd just snip them off and attach it to a dial spacer if using an ETA. ETA main plates can be slotted to accept gen dial feet, but I can't say for certain if that holds true for Gmt movements as well. Sounds like Yuki might be your best option for your build, however you might want to revise your budget expectations; Yuki cases for 1675s are in the $300+ range iirc, and a cartel 1655 will require more parts purchasing and modifications anyways. As you can see, it adds up (and never ends! Haha). Totally worth it though. I've toyed with the idea of getting one of his PCG case sets myself, one of the greatest GMTs ever in my opinion! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 I don't know if you looked at this thread, but there are a good number of 1675 builds done in various ways by members here. http://rwg.cc/topic/144146-the-1675-gmt-thread-post-em-pleas#comment-1082907 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchnutz Posted May 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 12 hours ago, JoeyB said: I don't know if you looked at this thread, but there are a good number of 1675 builds done in various ways by members here. http://rwg.cc/topic/144146-the-1675-gmt-thread-post-em-pleas#comment-1082907 excellent, I was trying to find this but couldn't with the search. I've been having problems with the search bar returning no results as well, not sure if its my browser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted May 5, 2016 Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 I have a cartel '1655' (laser engraved 1655 between the lugs with Exp II dial) that is actually a 5513/1680 case with the crown guards made for a 6.0mm crown instead of a 7.0mm crown. It originally came with a swisseta 2836 with Asian made non adjustable GMT conversion. How to tell it is a 5513/1680 case? A 19/127 crystal fits the case and a 116 will not. The skirt of the crystal had been sanded down to lower it so it would not be too high. It had a 5513/1680 size bezel with GMT bezel insert so an oem spec GMT insert would not fit. Looks like they used what was handy sometimes. Also have a swisseta powered '1675' (1675 between the lugs) from a few years back with non adjustable 24H hand (same mvt as the Ex II above)...the one with 'oyster perpetual date' on the dial but I can not find it to see what the case looks like. Seems like they did not make this model for long so you do not see many now. I have a g-wine 1675 so when I find the swisseta 1675 I will compare them. The swiss movements used in these watches were good and the beat rate can be slowed down by swapping out 2836 escapement parts with 2846 parts and the non adjustable Asian 24H conversions were basically trouble free. You can also buy an Asian etaclone GMT on eBay to get the parts. Btw, all the watches I bought during this time had new swissetas in them, no gumbos, refurbs, mixer/matchers, clones etc. Gumbos = old and dirty, barely run. Lotta gumbos out there. Edit: Forgot to say about DG '21 jewel movements'...some versions of the 21 jewel DG movements have instant change dates (the date snaps over almost all at once, not a little at a time). The date flipper is the round part that can be seen through the dw cover plate at 9 o'clock on the dial side. You can tell what type it is by looking at the date flipper assembly...the quick change models have a flat top with a small hole with a pin in it and the slow change models have a top with a slotted hole with a pin in the slot. The parts will interchange but you need to change it out as a set to be safe...date flipper, date wheel, and dw index lever although I changed the date flipper assembly and index lever out on one yesterday leaving the dw that came with the movement and it seems to work all right. Be sure there is spring tension in both directions on the quick change date lever (the T shaped lever that mounts over a date cover plate screw hole)...it has a finger that rides against a small wheel that is turned by the stem/crown to quick set the date). This lever works against two springs and they are prone to jump out of place before the dw cover plate is installed. Do not insert the U shaped dw index lever spring until the cover plate is mounted...then stuff it through the slot in the plate with the index lever between two dw teeth to give more room making sure the closed end is against the screw head at the end of the slot when installed. Cover the immediate area over the U spring hole with plastic wrap and work through it in case the U spring jumps out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Seamaster Posted May 5, 2016 Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 Well, as said above, there's no really good starting for an 1675.. I have an cartel 1675 incoming and can shoot a few pics here if u want. The following parts will be added: - clarks 25-116 crystal - clarks bezel insert - 2mm gen spec springbars - raffles flat caseback Then complete case shaping, insert aging and drilling lug holes. On the way is an wso bezel assembly to get the clarks insert fit. I'm trying to get an aftermarket dial atm.. Cheers Phil -sent from my ipad using tapatalk Men who guide the destinies of the world wear Rolex watches Btw try to get to RA's (rolexaddict) 1675 thread.. Great infos in there. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dilligaf24824 Posted May 6, 2016 Report Share Posted May 6, 2016 Save your money. Don't even do it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightwatch Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 Supermirrors has a recent offering: http://rwg.cc/topic/183983-rolie-1675-gmt-pepsi. In the 21j version - to allow for some financial room for upgrades - it might be a reasonable base for a budget-build or a nice beater for the price. The other option is to go pricier and checkout the build specifications with Rolexaddict, he made some awesome Blueberrys. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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